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Clutch not working.

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Misc
World Chat Champion



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 14 May 2010    Post subject: Clutch not working. Reply with quote

I had a leak of oil somewhere on my '96 Bandit behind the sprocket cover. I then remove the cover & found the oil was coming from the metal rod as shown in photo. I then found that the hole the rod goes into (the shaft with tiny ball bearings) was missing a bearing, it was lying on top of the cover so i remove it, cleaned it, greased it & put all the bearings in the correct hole in the shaft. I put everything back together & left it for the night. Went to go out on it this morning & stuck it in first gear, let out the clutch & nothing happened.

The bike doesn't stall with the clutch fully out. I thought this was down to the alignment bolt & nut so i adjusted this in so many ways but it's the same. When out of neutral, you can start the bike in any gear by holding in the clutch, so the clutch is working but i think i may of missed something out.

Any thoughts? Am i missing a part? I've tried searching for manuals showing how it's put together but the diagrams are never for this exact bike. Usually a US model which has different parts. Like This site.

Thanks.

https://img532.imageshack.us/img532/2710/dsc00186o.jpg
https://img130.imageshack.us/img130/2813/dsc00187og.jpg
Oil leak below.
https://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2801/dsc00189g.jpg
https://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4897/dsc00188e.jpg
https://img38.imageshack.us/img38/4025/dsc00185et.jpg
Ball bearings inside shaft reassembled.
https://img38.imageshack.us/img38/4164/dsc00191yy.jpg
https://img293.imageshack.us/img293/2019/dsc00190tp.jpg
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 14 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Can't remember if or where the ball bearing goes in the 600 Bandit clutch.

However if you have effectively changed the length of the clutch pushrod then you need to adjust it. That is the adjuster that is on the sprocket cover. From memory, slacken off the lock nut, back off the adjuster quite a way and then tighten it until it just makes contact (so you just start to feel resistance), then back off half a turn and tighten the lock nut.

Suspect what is happening at the moment is that the push rod is being pushed by the adjuster so it it holding the clutch released whatever you do with the cable. The switch to allow the bike to be started with the clutch pulled is on the clutch lever I think.

All the best

Keith
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Misc
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 14 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Can't remember if or where the ball bearing goes in the 600 Bandit clutch.

However if you have effectively changed the length of the clutch pushrod then you need to adjust it. That is the adjuster that is on the sprocket cover. From memory, slacken off the lock nut, back off the adjuster quite a way and then tighten it until it just makes contact (so you just start to feel resistance), then back off half a turn and tighten the lock nut.

Suspect what is happening at the moment is that the push rod is being pushed by the adjuster so it it holding the clutch released whatever you do with the cable. The switch to allow the bike to be started with the clutch pulled is on the clutch lever I think.

All the best

Keith


Kickstart you're a star! Mr. Green I've been trying the same thing all morning in different positions but did what you said & not it seems to be working correctly. Just need to set it up properly.

Appreciated.

By the way am i missing a rubber washer? Want to stop that leaking from the hole the rod sits in.

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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 14 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Misc wrote:

By the way am i missing a rubber washer? Want to stop that leaking from the hole the rod sits in.


There should be a seal there, and from those pics it looks like there is one. Could just be damaged.

All the best

Keith
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Misc
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 14 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Misc wrote:

By the way am i missing a rubber washer? Want to stop that leaking from the hole the rod sits in.


There should be a seal there, and from those pics it looks like there is one. Could just be damaged.

All the best

Keith


Thank you. Will order a new one to be sure.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 16 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to ask, when replacing the washer is it best to drain all the oil from the bike (Changing it soon anyway) or will only a small amount come out once i've removed the existing washer?
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SW Motech Shop UK
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 22 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 16 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't done it already take the drive gear out and clean it, then grease and refit. Bandits collect a load of crap inside the sprocket cover and it collects inside the worm drive. It will work much better if you do this.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 16 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much will come out. Even less if you lean the bike against a wall with some padding behind to stop it getting scratched. leave it in gear and tape the front brake lever back so it doesn't roll about.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Ditto
Nearly there...



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 16 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive seen those exact photos with that username on the Bandit forum...
https://strategicdc.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/detective.jpg

Razz
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Misc
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 16 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

adamfatbloke wrote:
If you haven't done it already take the drive gear out and clean it, then grease and refit. Bandits collect a load of crap inside the sprocket cover and it collects inside the worm drive. It will work much better if you do this.


Now that you say that i do remember pulling a clump of wool looking material from the sprocket. No idea where it comes from.

Pete. wrote:
Not much will come out. Even less if you lean the bike against a wall with some padding behind to stop it getting scratched. leave it in gear and tape the front brake lever back so it doesn't roll about.


Will do this method. Thanks.

Ditto wrote:
Ive seen those exact photos with that username on the Bandit forum...

Razz


Yup, tis me. I was in need of urgent help. But BCF came through faster. Wink The Bandit forum is really good though, some great advice & a nice bunch of people.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 18 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another bump, sorry.

Adjusted it a couple of times but when the bike's cold the revs mover faster then usual, as if you've pulled in the clutch.

Does the adjusting bolt need to be screwed in more or screwed out? What way is engaging the clutch?

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 18 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly loosen off the cable at the cable adjuster. this is an important step.

Next, release the locknut on that clutch pushrod adjuster. After that, turn the center adjuster anti-clockwise until it goes loose, and there's no weight pushing on it. Now wind it in until you feel it contact the pushrod behind the cover. When you feel contact, turn it back out half a turn and tighten the locknut without letting the adjuster turn any further in.

Now adjust the cable to take up most, but not all, of the free-play.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Misc
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 18 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Firstly loosen off the cable at the cable adjuster. this is an important step.

Next, release the locknut on that clutch pushrod adjuster. After that, turn the center adjuster anti-clockwise until it goes loose, and there's no weight pushing on it. Now wind it in until you feel it contact the pushrod behind the cover. When you feel contact, turn it back out half a turn and tighten the locknut without letting the adjuster turn any further in.

Now adjust the cable to take up most, but not all, of the free-play.


Hi,

I did the above but couldn't really feel any resistance until it was screwed most of the way, would the 'contact' be barely noticeable or would i definitely know? I'll give it another go tomorrow. When Keith said similar to the above i didn't back off half a turn after i tightened it, does this make much difference?

And with the last bit, when you say adjust the cable for the free play, are you talking about the adjusting screw at the lever, as i don't have one. Embarassed

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cable adjuster is right there in your photo. It's the screw and locknut which screws into the top of the case. Wind it all the way in so there's no threads showing before you adjust anything.

The adjuster is the screw with the slot in the end. Turn it anti-clockwise until it's very loose. Then turn it clockwise until you feel it touch the pushrod. You will feel it touch but it won't go tight. After that turn it back half a turn and lock it with the nut.

When you have done all that wind the cable adjuster in the top of the case out again. When it was wound right in you would have had a lot of loose play at the lever. You need to reduce that looseness, but not all of it. if you take it all out it will start pulling on the release arm and make the clutch slip. after you have adjusted the cable free-play, wind that nut on the adjuster down the thread so the nut tightens on the case. This will stop the adjuster from un-adjusting itself in use.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Misc
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
The cable adjuster is right there in your photo. It's the screw and locknut which screws into the top of the case. Wind it all the way in so there's no threads showing before you adjust anything.

The adjuster is the screw with the slot in the end. Turn it anti-clockwise until it's very loose. Then turn it clockwise until you feel it touch the pushrod. You will feel it touch but it won't go tight. After that turn it back half a turn and lock it with the nut.

When you have done all that wind the cable adjuster in the top of the case out again. When it was wound right in you would have had a lot of loose play at the lever. You need to reduce that looseness, but not all of it. if you take it all out it will start pulling on the release arm and make the clutch slip. after you have adjusted the cable free-play, wind that nut on the adjuster down the thread so the nut tightens on the case. This will stop the adjuster from un-adjusting itself in use.


Thanks again.

I know the cable adjuster but not sure what you mean the second bit, are you talking about the second photo? Wondered what the hell that was. Embarassed

I'll give this a go tomorrow. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes the second photo. Have you not adjusted that bit? That is the clutch ajuster, that you must wind out then in till it touches then out half a turn. Remember the big nut locks it, so loosen that a bit first and tighten it last.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Misc
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Yes the second photo. Have you not adjusted that bit? That is the clutch ajuster, that you must wind out then in till it touches then out half a turn. Remember the big nut locks it, so loosen that a bit first and tighten it last.


I understand now. Nope, not adjusted that bit. I did think it must be for something as i dissembled that part with all the tiny bearings but thought it just held the shaft in.

Cheers.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 21 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got round to adjusting it today, it's much better now. Thanks Guys/Pete. Clutch lever has more play then normal & the biting point is much closer but feels easier to control now.

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