Misfire RG125UN wolf.

[BenR]

Hi I have a few electrical gremlins the main one being a misfire from 6000rpm through to 8000rpm on my RG. I have replaced the stator/magneto (thinking of the pickups) I've also replaced the coil & CDI unit. I'm at my wits end really as I've just restored this bike & just want it to run right. Could the regulator/rectifier have anything to do with the ignition? It does charge fine. Any help much appreciated cheers!
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[BenR]

Anyone?
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[BenR]

Would appreciate some help guys cheers.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[P.]

its not the same as an aprilia with their weird 7-8k retard thing is it?

[BenR]

No no CDI bridge. I've ordered a spare regulator/rectifier off egay but don't know if that'll sort it.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[Crafty]

[Kickstart]

Hi

As above. The regulator / rectifier shouldn't cause the issue unless the battery is just about dead.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[BenR]

[cb1rocket]

sounds to me your carb is not setup correctly, wrong main a jet a possibly, and or oil pump adjustment not set up correctly or busted

[Kickstart]

Hi

Could be a carb issue. You have replaced most items, but worth also checking the ignition switch and kill switch. Possible that they could short out killing the ignition (had a similar issue with a generic key switch on a bike)

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[cb1rocket]

as kickstart has said, its probably worth doing ALL the wiring and switches (kill, side stand etc) and joining them permantly on or bypassed just to check.

i did this to one of my bike to find the problem then wired back to normal for each switch and in the end I found my kill switch being intermittent

[Kickstart]

Hi

Just remembered something. Some Suzukis have a resistor in one of the circuits in the ignition switch. It is there to make it more difficult to hotwire the bike. Not sure on the gamma, but one thing to watch out for if you try to bypass the ignition for a test as cb1rocket suggests.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Crafty]

The more I think about this, the more I think you'll find its a carb issue. If it was electrical it would happen randomly & at any rpm.
Try the circlip on the needle. Lower it (bottom groove) to increase fuel mixture & raise it (top) to weaken mixture. Also the wet plugs are probably due to you NOT shutting the throttle &/or failing to pull the clutch lever just before you hit the kill switch? You must do both or the engine will pull in air & fuel, resulting in an inaccurate reading & a very wet plug. EITHER coast to a stop with clutch lever pulled in, or find neutral before releasing clutch lever.
The carb has 3 main phases, but each slightly overlaps the next
1) idle to 1/4
2) 1/4 to 3/4
3) 3/4 to full
Phase 1 is controlled by the pilot jet & the air screw.
Phase 2 is controlled by the needle valve.
Phase 3 is controlled by the main jet.

So by using these factors obviously air screw & pilot jet are eliminated.
Next thing to do is get the full throttle mixture right so that the much more complex process of getting the needle set up can be sorted, (once this is done a further full throttle plug chop will be needed. To make sure its not too lean. It's better to run a little on the rich side tbh).

Next thing to check is if its happening only in Phase 2, Phase 3 or both?

The needle valve works like a tap on your sink below 1/4 it fills the hole in the main jet shutting off all supply, then as you go above 1/4 it starts to allow a little fuel in, then as you open it more the taper allows even more fuel though the main jet. Then @ around 3/4 open it allows maximum fuel through the main jet. At this point the main jet take over. That is why the needle is tapered & also why its misleadingly called a jet. In truth it is actually a main jet variator.
It has to be remembered that this is throttle openings & IS NOT RPM RELATED
Also check that the needle is neither bent or worn. this will be obvious as the taper should be nice & even. no ruts, dents, rings or grooves etc etc.
This I suspect is the real problem so EXAMINE IT VERY CAREFULLY. Either that or its way too rich.... if your @ full throttle opening when it happens, try backing off to 3/4 if thats the case.... if it clears itself then you know for sure it a fueling problem,
Hope this helps.
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To FINNISH 1ST, 1ST you gotta FINNISH.
Fastest is the 1ST to CROSS the FINNISH LINE.
2ND, IS the 1ST of all the LOSERS.

[BenR]

[BenR]

Hi all. I've narrowed it down to the carb. I ordered all new jets today but unfortunately the part I really needed/wanted (jet needle) is now unavailable. I'm at a loss as to what I can do now any suggestions much appreciated cheers.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[Kickstart]

Hi

Try Allens Performance for the carb bits. Hopefully they can get them without going through Suzuki.

Failing that I wuold find a set of RGV carbs and measure the needle in that.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[BenR]