It's funny being a noob!

[Feasty]

Okay so I'm not a true noob to riding or being on BCF, but am a noob to doing my own work on the bike. Mainly because it's my only form of transport and I can't afford to make a mistake and not have it running.

Anyway, due to a buckled rear wheel I had to remove it to get it to the shop to be repaired. It's got a rear brake caliper on it and I wasn't sure how to get it off to remove the wheel. I went through the online manual 3 times and watched about 4-5 different YouTube videos, but still didn't really get whether I had to drain the brake fluid, prise the brake pads apart or what!
Eventually I just tried removing the rear wheel spindle and hey presto the wheel and brake disc just dropped out!!


So I'm assuming when I eventually get the wheel back I can just slot it straight back in again and off I go? Or should I really be greasing the spindle etc, etc whilst the wheel is out?


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Previous: Aprilia Habana Retro 50cc (beauty), Yamaha SR125 (fell apart), Honda XR125 (nippy little commuter), Honda SLR650 (Geewhizz), Yamaha Diversion 900S (Smoooooth) written off courtesy of a stupid escaped horse.
(7 year gap), BMW F650 (Relaxing ride). Aprilia Caponord ETV1000 (Big and bold). Yamaha FZS600 (got me in trouble too quick!).
Current: Yamaha TDM 900 (Comfy, light but big, power when needed).

[.....]

Whack a screwdriver in between the pads and lever them apart a bit to make getting the wheel back in easier.

I'd clean all the wheel spacers and spindle while they're out. If the bearings have any play in them it would be worth changing them. I'd grease the spindle before putting it back in, don't know if you're supposed to, but I do it.

And where I say 'Whack a screwdriver in...' I don't mean literally, just put one between the pads, not smack one in with a hammer.

[Walloper]

You should remove the calliper/s.
It is much easier to refit a calliper to a fitted wheel than to try to align the pads and wheel and spindle.
Removal of the wheel is much easier too.
There is enough freedom in the hose to do this without disconnecting the hose.

Be careful when prying the pads back using a screw driver. You can easily damage the disc through scoring or cracking or warping.
This can be done easier when the wheel is removed, clean the pistons and protective gator/boots refit the calliper (temporarily) and pry back the pads before putting it all back.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[Tim..]

Dont get any grease on that disc mind. Is good practice to not even touch the contact surface.

Tim
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Project builds: My VFR400 nc30 build thread + Honda Britain Rep VFR + What? Another VFR +Project 'cos I want one' + V8 coffee table
www.marshallracing.co.uk
OCD - Helping to bring the standard of my bikes up and make me slowly go mad since 1999

[keyser soze]

dont forget when you have put your wheel back on and everything looks great and all tightened up as it should be, pump the brake to get the pads back to where they are ment to be.

[Grimnir]

Support the brake caliper while the wheel is out or you could possibly risk damage to the brake hose / fittings. Depending on how much pipe there is, either:
sit it on the swing arm
cable tie it somewhere (probably more applicable to front calipers)
loosley bolt it back in place - should stop you losing the bolts There *may* be enough slack so that you don't need to undo the brake to get the wheel back in - just remember to torque everything properly

[Damon]

I'm suprised no-one has mentioned this yet. When using anything to pry the pads back make sure your brake reservoir (the container that holds the fluid above your brake lever) is open. i.e lid is off. Don't do this and it doens't matter if your mum is hercules, you are never going to get those pads back

[Minty]

[DrDonnyBrago]

[Feasty]

[Grimnir]

Ah, I didn't know what bike it was or the brake mounting method. Is it not on a bracket / spacer - held in place when the spindle is fitted?
Post a picture?

[Paxovasa]

[Frost]

Reservoir has a hole in it to let air in and out. The rubber seal stops the fluid from escaping, so open or not makes no difference unless the air hole is blocked.

I always drop the back wheel out with the caliper still in place. The weight of the wheel pulls it out and keeps it straight. Leaving the caliper in place also stops it dangling on the brake hose and knackering it. I remove the caliper before refitting the wheel as lifting the wheel up and trying to align it to the caliper and spindle can be a pain.

If you need to push the pistons back to get the caliper back on, either the disc is worn and has a slight lip on the end, or the pistons aren't moving freely and they and their seals need a clean.

[Minty]

[Feasty]

[Paxovasa]

[Damon]

[Grosvenor]