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AcIdBuRnZ
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Joined: 28 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 15 Jul 2004    Post subject: Spraypainting Reply with quote

Hi,

Was thinking of spraying the bike red. It's metallic silver at the mo. I've used spray cans before on cars with pretty decent results.

Just thinking out loud here really but what do you guys think? I know some of you have done this in the past - was it worth the hassle?

I suppose my main gripe is the prep work - how should I prep the plastic bodywork and the tank???

Mark
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izzi81
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Joined: 24 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 01:36 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I sprayed the fixed up bits of my fairing back to Ninja red it was a lot of work, and that was just a couple of smallish areas! It was painstaking to get the right amount of paint on - too little and it doesn't shine properly and is a bit mottled, too much and suddenly it's running.

I don't think I'd have the patience to spray a whole bike!

As for prepping, is it not just a case of a very fine sand down?
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aqualung1
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have always been told that preperation is the main thing
you need a good clean dust free area as well
if a single colour should not be too expensive to do proffessionally, 2 pac is meant to be far better

mind you what am i too say, heres one i did earlier Razz
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aqualung1
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: as a disclaimer Reply with quote

i was a lot younger at the time Laughing
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dainesefreak
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Joined: 04 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red! Red! Don't you know that Silver is the colour for the new millennium? Wink

Edit: Oooh I nearly forgot, how about Hammerite?
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: Re: Spraypainting Reply with quote

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
Just thinking out loud here really but what do you guys think?

Pissing in the wind

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
I know some of you have done this in the past - was it worth the hassle?

Nope

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
I suppose my main gripe is the prep work - how should I prep the plastic bodywork and the tank???

Assuming there are no chips/sctratches etc just scruff it with brown 3M scotchbrite pads & then wipe it down with lint free cloths & wax/grease remover such as Crow HET 1705.
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Sadie
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Joined: 14 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you know what you are doing, or you don't mind ruining your paintwork, don't do it! Thumbs Down

No, really, don't do it! Mad

No, no, no! Crying or Very sad

Well, OK, but don't say I didn't warn you. Rolling Eyes
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Smoto Bob
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: spraying Reply with quote

did right a huge reply but got bored and gave up last time Laughing

so if you want to do whole bike just take it to powdered coaters, wont cost too much and compared to the effort and time of prepping everything and the painting and the laquering ( 48 hours to dry!!!! the petrol proof stuff) and all the time masking ect, took me a week to do 2 wheels Shocked

If you do spray it your self, use the decent larquer, and the petrol resistant stuff is HARD!! but doesn't finish well Thumbs Down
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 16 Jul 2004    Post subject: Re: spraying Reply with quote

Smoto Bob wrote:
compared to the effort and time of prepping everything and the painting and the laquering ( 48 hours to dry!!!! the petrol proof stuff) and all the time masking ect, took me a week to do 2 wheels .
If you do spray it your self, use the decent larquer, and the petrol resistant stuff is HARD!! but doesn't finish well Thumbs Down
Just remember that laquer based crap always remains *soluble* & never kicks off like proper Iso-Cyanate urethanes etc. This means that at ANY time a solvent is spilled on it it will fuck it up instantly. It doesn't matter how *hard* it is.
It takes me 6 hours to do an entire car & thats sealer, colour coat & clear, bake for 2 hours & yer done. You can pour laquer thinner on it & it won't do a damn thing to the paint.
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IBITE
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 14 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dad is an ex-sprayer and kindly taught me the art. And boy is it an art! Preparation is a major part and like it's already been said - a quick rub down with a bit of "wet and dry" just wont give the desired result. I've sprayed quite alot and would always use good quality materials coz it does matter!

I think that unless you know what you're doing and have the right environment, pay someone else to do it!

PS - I'm cheap!!!!! Wink
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shroom7
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Joined: 10 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:49 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zrx61 knows his shit, I used to work in auto body for 6 months. Which in itself isn't shit just barely got a grasp of the basics. The scotch brite pads would work well just to scuff the surface to get adhesion or an ultra fine sand paper as you are only trying to scuff the clear coat not the base coat, but this would only be feasible if the surface you are painting is perfect ie: no deep scratches, cracks, chips etc like Zrx61 said in the beginning. When you are applying the base coat (color coat) you are not trying to cover the entire piece that is being painted you should dust it on lightly and it should take about 2-3 light coats to get good coverage on a fairing. And a laquer based clear coat wouldn't be appropriate as "thinner" is actually mixed with the paint before it is sprayed, this is the worst problem on a mistubushi car as they prefer to be cheap and use a water based clear coat so in theory every time it rains or every time you wash your car you are actually washing off the clear coat and it shows after about 4 years.
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Smoto Bob
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: painting Reply with quote

shroom7 wrote:
When you are applying the base coat (color coat) you are not trying to cover the entire piece that is being painted you should dust it on lightly and it should take about 2-3 light coats to get good coverage on a fairing. .


^^^ MAJOR POINT ^^^ Thumbs Up
and you need to let it flash between coats Thumbs Up
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Frost
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Joined: 26 May 2004
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds to me like the way to do it is to do all the prep yourself, then get someone who knows their stuff to do the actual skilled work Wink
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shroom7
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 10 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoto Bob wrote:
Quote:
^^^ MAJOR POINT ^^^
and you need to let it flash between coats



You will know that the coat of paint that was just applied has "flashed" when it has dulled out. Usually 5- 10 minutes, per coat this is impairative in the attempt to thwart runs and drips.
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zzr_peak
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 24 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm also going to give my bike a re spray, if worked on everyday how long do you think it would take to spray a zzr?
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 17 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

zzr_peak wrote:
i'm also going to give my bike a re spray, if worked on everyday how long do you think it would take to spray a zzr?

Depends on the amount of prep work required, If there ain't any scratches then you could have it scuffed & clean ready for sealer in about an hour or so. Sealer is just to stop bleed thru of different colurs etc before the colour goes on.
The thing is you can have a $1000 paint job on a car that looks exactly the same as a $5000 paint job on an identical car, depends what was done before the color went on. I just sprayed my '69 XR7 Cougar & the prep alone was about 150 hours, the actual seal/base/clear spraying part only took a morning.

One thing I have noticed on here (& Visordown) when people talk about wet & dry is they refer to it as fine, or very fine etc. That can cause problems if the person getting the advice doesn't have a frame of reference for the actual grade of paper, ferinstance, carpenters refer to 200 grit as very fine but that would bugger up a paint job in about 2 seconds.
I usually hit the part with 240-320 when removing material & feathering out scratches etc, then 400 before the sealer goes on, colour it & hit that with 500-600 if it needs it to remove any bits of dust etc. Then clearcoat & hit that with 1200, 1500 & then 2000 before hitting it with the buffer.

One more thing: NEVER sand with your fingers, all that does is put grooves in the paint, ALWAYS use a block, for rounded bits you can wrap the paper around a bit of rad hose etc. I've found the best blocks to be made by a company called Durablock, ya get that brand in the UK? I think they are made from recycled tires & come in all shapes & sizes.

Check out this place:
www.autobodytoolmart.com
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