|
|
| Author |
Message |
| AcIdBuRnZ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 AcIdBuRnZ World Chat Champion

Joined: 28 Jul 2003 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 23:49 - 15 Jul 2004 Post subject: Spraypainting |
 |
|
Hi,
Was thinking of spraying the bike red. It's metallic silver at the mo. I've used spray cans before on cars with pretty decent results.
Just thinking out loud here really but what do you guys think? I know some of you have done this in the past - was it worth the hassle?
I suppose my main gripe is the prep work - how should I prep the plastic bodywork and the tank???
Mark ____________________ Past: Honda NSR125R >> Kawasaki ER-5a2 >> Kawasaki ZZR-600e1 >> Suzuki GSXR-750Y >> Honda VTR 1000 Firestorm
"Chickity China the Chinese Chicken..." |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| izzi81 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 izzi81 Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 24 Apr 2004 Karma :  
|
 Posted: 01:36 - 16 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
When I sprayed the fixed up bits of my fairing back to Ninja red it was a lot of work, and that was just a couple of smallish areas! It was painstaking to get the right amount of paint on - too little and it doesn't shine properly and is a bit mottled, too much and suddenly it's running.
I don't think I'd have the patience to spray a whole bike!
As for prepping, is it not just a case of a very fine sand down? ____________________ "The problem with the French is they have no word for 'entrepreneur' " George W Bush
Age doesn't matter unless you're a cheese
https://www.bikepics.com/members/izzi81 |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| aqualung1 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 aqualung1 Trackday Trickster

Joined: 15 Jul 2004 Karma :     
|
 Posted: 12:56 - 16 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
i have always been told that preperation is the main thing
you need a good clean dust free area as well
if a single colour should not be too expensive to do proffessionally, 2 pac is meant to be far better
mind you what am i too say, heres one i did earlier  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| aqualung1 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 aqualung1 Trackday Trickster

Joined: 15 Jul 2004 Karma :     
|
 Posted: 12:57 - 16 Jul 2004 Post subject: as a disclaimer |
 |
|
i was a lot younger at the time  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| dainesefreak |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 dainesefreak World Chat Champion

Joined: 04 Apr 2003 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 13:02 - 16 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
Red! Red! Don't you know that Silver is the colour for the new millennium?
Edit: Oooh I nearly forgot, how about Hammerite? |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| ZRX61 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
Joined: 05 Nov 2003 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Sadie |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Sadie World Chat Champion

Joined: 14 Jul 2004 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 19:23 - 16 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
Unless you know what you are doing, or you don't mind ruining your paintwork, don't do it!
No, really, don't do it!
No, no, no!
Well, OK, but don't say I didn't warn you.  ____________________ With experience comes age. |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Smoto Bob |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Smoto Bob World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Dec 2003 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 22:05 - 16 Jul 2004 Post subject: spraying |
 |
|
did right a huge reply but got bored and gave up last time
so if you want to do whole bike just take it to powdered coaters, wont cost too much and compared to the effort and time of prepping everything and the painting and the laquering ( 48 hours to dry!!!! the petrol proof stuff) and all the time masking ect, took me a week to do 2 wheels
If you do spray it your self, use the decent larquer, and the petrol resistant stuff is HARD!! but doesn't finish well  ____________________ F'it DO WHAT EVER MAKES YOU HAPPY!!!!! Even if it screws over everyone else :p
Titz wrote: "..and my 3rd accident was when this police car....." |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| ZRX61 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
Joined: 05 Nov 2003 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| IBITE |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 IBITE Two Stroke Sniffer

Joined: 14 Jul 2004 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 00:21 - 17 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
My dad is an ex-sprayer and kindly taught me the art. And boy is it an art! Preparation is a major part and like it's already been said - a quick rub down with a bit of "wet and dry" just wont give the desired result. I've sprayed quite alot and would always use good quality materials coz it does matter!
I think that unless you know what you're doing and have the right environment, pay someone else to do it!
PS - I'm cheap!!!!!  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| shroom7 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 shroom7 Two Stroke Sniffer

Joined: 10 Jul 2004 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 01:49 - 17 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
Zrx61 knows his shit, I used to work in auto body for 6 months. Which in itself isn't shit just barely got a grasp of the basics. The scotch brite pads would work well just to scuff the surface to get adhesion or an ultra fine sand paper as you are only trying to scuff the clear coat not the base coat, but this would only be feasible if the surface you are painting is perfect ie: no deep scratches, cracks, chips etc like Zrx61 said in the beginning. When you are applying the base coat (color coat) you are not trying to cover the entire piece that is being painted you should dust it on lightly and it should take about 2-3 light coats to get good coverage on a fairing. And a laquer based clear coat wouldn't be appropriate as "thinner" is actually mixed with the paint before it is sprayed, this is the worst problem on a mistubushi car as they prefer to be cheap and use a water based clear coat so in theory every time it rains or every time you wash your car you are actually washing off the clear coat and it shows after about 4 years. ____________________ I pee in pools  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Smoto Bob |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Smoto Bob World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Dec 2003 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Frost |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
|
 Posted: 11:58 - 17 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
Sounds to me like the way to do it is to do all the prep yourself, then get someone who knows their stuff to do the actual skilled work  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| shroom7 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 shroom7 Two Stroke Sniffer

Joined: 10 Jul 2004 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| zzr_peak |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 zzr_peak Renault 5 Driver

Joined: 24 Jun 2004 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| ZRX61 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
Joined: 05 Nov 2003 Karma :  
|
 Posted: 20:28 - 17 Jul 2004 Post subject: |
 |
|
| zzr_peak wrote: | i'm also going to give my bike a re spray, if worked on everyday how long do you think it would take to spray a zzr? |
Depends on the amount of prep work required, If there ain't any scratches then you could have it scuffed & clean ready for sealer in about an hour or so. Sealer is just to stop bleed thru of different colurs etc before the colour goes on.
The thing is you can have a $1000 paint job on a car that looks exactly the same as a $5000 paint job on an identical car, depends what was done before the color went on. I just sprayed my '69 XR7 Cougar & the prep alone was about 150 hours, the actual seal/base/clear spraying part only took a morning.
One thing I have noticed on here (& Visordown) when people talk about wet & dry is they refer to it as fine, or very fine etc. That can cause problems if the person getting the advice doesn't have a frame of reference for the actual grade of paper, ferinstance, carpenters refer to 200 grit as very fine but that would bugger up a paint job in about 2 seconds.
I usually hit the part with 240-320 when removing material & feathering out scratches etc, then 400 before the sealer goes on, colour it & hit that with 500-600 if it needs it to remove any bits of dust etc. Then clearcoat & hit that with 1200, 1500 & then 2000 before hitting it with the buffer.
One more thing: NEVER sand with your fingers, all that does is put grooves in the paint, ALWAYS use a block, for rounded bits you can wrap the paper around a bit of rad hose etc. I've found the best blocks to be made by a company called Durablock, ya get that brand in the UK? I think they are made from recycled tires & come in all shapes & sizes.
Check out this place:
www.autobodytoolmart.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 22 years, 57 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
 |
|
|