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why are front disc bolts so expensive

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kneedown
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: why are front disc bolts so expensive Reply with quote

is there something special about the stainless bolts used in discs, i need to buy ten bolts for my front discs on my yzf 750 and being quoted 40 odd quid.

Cant i just use normal m8 20mm hex bolts, put one on and it fitted fine. But a friend said i shouldent use them because the bolts are specially designed.
I didnt think this was the case, any insight?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Do you trust your life to put all the braking force through some random strength generic bolts?

The disk bolts are silly money but I would be dubious about using bolts of an unknown grade to replace them.

All the best

Keith
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calyx
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I remember from the metallurgy lessons is:
There are 3 types of steel. martensit, perlit, bylit. (probably misspelled) martensit is the hard one (easy to brake/snap). perlit is semi flexible, bylit is flexible.
manufacturing martensit is very easy and cheap. heat the iron, give it some coal fire, cool it down to 400 degrees and leave it.
Probably cheap bolts are manufactured by this method. That's why you should listen Kickstart Very Happy

Alternatively you can get this kind of stuff:

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FTC1368?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=feed
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Do you trust your life to put all the braking force through some random strength generic bolts?

The disk bolts are silly money but I would be dubious about using bolts of an unknown grade to replace them.

All the best

Keith


+1

they are expensive because they are specifically designed to withstand the forces involved in stopping a bike at high speeds in an emergency.

any normal bolts might be fine for a run around town but if you have to pull an emergency stop you will run the risk of the bolts snapping and your brakes failing.

i'd rather pay the money and get the proper bolts to be honest
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kneedown
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

im not syaing i will use them i am just asking are they actually a special grade steel etc or is it just another case of yamaha saying "buy this from us
its the same product but because we recommend it its three times as much", as this seems to be the case for many bike specific spares
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tatters
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I,ve got a spare box of over 100 "12.9" rated disc bolts for Yamahas they are a straight swap for All YZF models l,ve used them on my YZF750 and YZF1000,

were abouts are you located as you can have as many as you need.
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Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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kneedown
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi mate im in south london, that would be really appreciated, how much for 12 of them
cheers Thumbs Up
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tatters
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats good l,m near south london in west molesey, surrey

You can have 12 for free, say £2 for postage or you can pick them up.

Send me a PM and let me know whats good for you.


There black high tensile steel so you might want to coat or paint the heads once there fitted as they will corrode over time being made of steel something l,ve never bothered to do on my bikes.
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Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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colin1
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a bit concerned that I might one day buy a secondhand bike, where someone didnt think it was worth fitting proper strong bolts to hold the brake disc on.

Probably the most critical part of the bike subjected to some of the highest forces.

I'm a cheapskate, and will use brake pads until they are practically metal on metal, but there is no way, I'd use anything other than proper brake disc bolts to secure the brake disc.

Different metals have very different properties. Not all shiny things are the same.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Re: why are front disc bolts so expensive Reply with quote

kneedown wrote:
is there something special about the stainless bolts used in discs, i need to buy ten bolts for my front discs on my yzf 750 and being quoted 40 odd quid.

Cant i just use normal m8 20mm hex bolts, put one on and it fitted fine. But a friend said i shouldent use them because the bolts are specially designed.
I didnt think this was the case, any insight?


Disc bolts have a shoulder on them specifically ground to fit through the hole in the disc and into the relief machined into the tapped hole in the hub. They aren't a standard type bolt so you have to pay more for them.

Contrary to popular belief the bolts work in tension not in shear, they hold the disc tight against the hub and it's the friction generated by this clamping that the braking forces work against, not shearing-action against the bolt. For this purpose any comparable-grade bolt would work but the closer-fitting shoulder on the disc bolts are to prevent radial runout in the disc. If it had any runout it would put the wheel out of balance.
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colin1
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Re: why are front disc bolts so expensive Reply with quote

Quote:

Contrary to popular belief the bolts work in tension not in shear, they hold the disc tight against the hub and it's the friction generated by this clamping that the braking forces work against, not shearing-action against the bolt. For this purpose any comparable-grade bolt would work but the closer-fitting shoulder on the disc bolts are to prevent radial runout in the disc. If it had any runout it would put the wheel out of balance.


Friction stops the bolt coming loose, but shear forces are the ones that will break the bolt if its not strong enough. The brakes acting on the disc pull the disc in one direction against the bolts, the wheel that the bolts are screwed into pull in the opposite direction against the bolts.

Thats shear, and if the bolts arent strong, they will fail.

Anyone wanting to use copper bolts which will give good friciton (which is one reason why its used in plumbing), will quickly find that the shear strength is not adequate.

You need a bolt which is strong.

Obviously, you cant get copper bolts for the very reason, that copper isnt strong. I was just exaggerating to make the point about shear strength.[/quote]
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes friction is what stops bolts coming loose which is how all bolts stay tight, but I'm talking about the friction between the disc and the wheel, not the bolt and the wheel, or the bolt and the disc.

Strictly speaking the bolts are in both shear and tensional forces combined. The bolt clamps the disc with tensile forces and the disc is held by frictional forces against the hub. If those frictional forces are overcome, shear forces will take up the remainder of the load. Copper bolts wouldn't have anything like the tensile or shear strength for either job.
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colin1
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK got ya and I agree about the tension. I still think that the shear strength will be doing more than the friction you speak of though.

Taking a step back from the element analysis though, another way to look at it would be that the forces needed to decelerate a bike quickly are going to be huge, and the bolts are an important link in the chain in that process. It makes sense to me that they need to be a lot stronger than the usual bolt of similar diameter, thread pitch etc, as most bolts arent going to be subjected to such high forces.
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Last edited by colin1 on 12:21 - 07 Aug 2010; edited 1 time in total
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

calyx wrote:
What I remember from the metallurgy lessons is:
There are 3 types of steel. martensit, perlit, bylit. (probably misspelled) martensit is the hard one (easy to brake/snap). perlit is semi flexible, bylit is flexible.
manufacturing martensit is very easy and cheap. heat the iron, give it some coal fire, cool it down to 400 degrees and leave it.
Probably cheap bolts are manufactured by this method. That's why you should listen Kickstart Very Happy

Alternatively you can get this kind of stuff:

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FTC1368?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=feed


It's Martensite, Pearlite and Bainite. You have Austenitic and Ferritic steels too. It's all to do with the processing temperatures and alloying content. The Iron-Carbon phase diagram will help to explain how the different phases/structures are formed. In short, it has all to do with the grain structure of the steel. Martensitic steel is very hard with needle like grains. Anyway long and short of it... different phases mean different grain structures which has a direct effect on mechanical properties content (you have other factors like precipitates etc as a result of alloying composition).

Generally speaking, something that is hard isn't ductile and you'd need something with adequate tensile strength in this application.. stainless steels do not qualify for high tensile bolts otherwise they'd be using them in some of the environments I see at the power station.

Yeah, it sucks to be a metallurgist by qualification!
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i wouldnt feel that unsafe using standard 8.8 grade plated steel bolts or something.
If theres 12 of them per disc then i doubt theyd ever shear.
All i would do is maybe use countersunk bolts to properly centralise the disc. Not that it matters too much.
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Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, having given it some thought on most discs runout is controlled by locating the ID of the carrier on the hub.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
i wouldnt feel that unsafe using standard 8.8 grade plated steel bolts or something.
If theres 12 of them per disc then i doubt theyd ever shear.


Most I can think of there are 6 bolts per disk

All the best

Keith
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calyx
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Tot wrote:

It's Martensite, Pearlite and Bainite. You have Austenitic and Ferritic steels too. It's all to do with the processing temperatures and alloying content. The Iron-Carbon phase diagram will help to explain how the different phases/structures are formed. In short, it has all to do with the grain structure of the steel. Martensitic steel is very hard with needle like grains. Anyway long and short of it... different phases mean different grain structures which has a direct effect on mechanical properties content (you have other factors like precipitates etc as a result of alloying composition).

Generally speaking, something that is hard isn't ductile and you'd need something with adequate tensile strength in this application.. stainless steels do not qualify for high tensile bolts otherwise they'd be using them in some of the environments I see at the power station.

Yeah, it sucks to be a metallurgist by qualification!


Damn, I still remember all those unnecessary stuff!
I am a heating & ventilation design engineer by the way Confused
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hamed
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 17 Aug 2010    Post subject: zx9r 94model front disc bolts Reply with quote

I have a 94 model zx9r which am looking for the front disc bolts. I have looked around but only managed to find bolts for newer models. Will these bolts work on my old bike?
Thanks
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