Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


Honda VT 250 F2 hasn't been started in years, what to do?

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

pieee
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 05 Aug 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:39 - 21 Aug 2010    Post subject: Honda VT 250 F2 hasn't been started in years, what to do? Reply with quote

Hey guys just as the title says,

I have a Honda VT250F2 that was given to me recently that hasn't been started in a long long time (2 or 3 years) and was told that it was fully operational before the front wheel and forks etc were taken off and other various bits were used as parts for the bike that I am currently riding. So both bikes were from the same owner (a friend) and currently only 1 is working, my frequent ride and it is running beautifully.

I have put the forks, wheel and tank etc back on the other bike and built it back up with things I had in a big brown box Razz she is rolling around fine, brakes etc is all running fine, I put a battery in her today and tested the killswitch by putting my ear to its relay bit and I can hear it tick in and out so a good sign, now as for the engine and other areas to look at what would I need to do to get this baby running again?

Here are a few pics too:

https://img267.imageshack.us/g/img00357201008070714.jpg/


Thanks, Filip.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Dom1981
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 25 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:17 - 21 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate.

Few months ago I bought a Honda CLR 125 which was stored for 5 years.
First of all I had replace battery and oil and try to fire up the engine.
It moved but it didn`t start. So I had to take the engine apart and i have found that the rings on the piston were stuck. Engine didn`t get the right compression.
Did you check the compression in your bike?
Finally I had to replace:
Spark plug, ignition coil, battery, oil, some gaskets.
I had to clean the carb as well.

Now it`s working fine.
Good luck.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:27 - 21 Aug 2010    Post subject: Re: Honda VT 250 F2 hasn't been started in years, what to do Reply with quote

pieee wrote:
Hey guys just as the title says,

I have a Honda VT250F2 that was given to me recently that hasn't been started in a long long time (2 or 3 years) and was told that it was fully operational before the front wheel and forks etc were taken off and other various bits were used as parts for the bike that I am currently riding. So both bikes were from the same owner (a friend) and currently only 1 is working, my frequent ride and it is running beautifully.

I have put the forks, wheel and tank etc back on the other bike and built it back up with things I had in a big brown box Razz she is rolling around fine, brakes etc is all running fine, I put a battery in her today and tested the killswitch by putting my ear to its relay bit and I can hear it tick in and out so a good sign, now as for the engine and other areas to look at what would I need to do to get this baby running again?

Here are a few pics too:

https://img267.imageshack.us/g/img00357201008070714.jpg/


Thanks, Filip.


Check the oil, pour in new fuel, new battery and crank it.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

pieee
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 05 Aug 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:57 - 21 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom1981 wrote:
It moved but it didn`t start. So I had to take the engine apart and i have found that the rings on the piston were stuck.


I read around here on one of the posts that someone got theirs unstuck by taking out the spark plugs and poured a lid of oil in it to loosen everything up, or am I thinking of another issue with this?

So basically what I need is:
Fuses
Battery
Spark Plugs + Leads
Oil
New Fuel

and finally clean out the carbies? this is something I haven't done before, do most carbies work the same and have the same layout?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:06 - 21 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not just check the oil and see if it starts? No use wasting time or money buying new bits for an engine you haven't heard running yet, no matter how 'honest' the previous owner was.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

radical
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 02 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:18 - 21 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Op, check you front inboard disc as well as they rust up very quickly being cast iron and also check the timing chain tensioner as they do give trouble and are prone to sticking.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:50 - 22 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it hasn't been running for a while...
Chances are there will be some rust on bare metal not protected by oil. Piston rings etc.
This is normally just light surface superficial but can create problems.
Remove the spark plugs and pour 1/2 teaspoon of clean engine oil in the holes.
Check the oil level and top up to the full mark.
Turn the engine over on starter or kicker.
If it turns over OK put the plugs in and try to start.

The petrol in the tank and carburetor will be phuqued so you will need to find a way to drain the tank and the carb floatbowls befor starting.

If you suck the old fuel through you may give yourself more work later if any tar/varnish blocks jets/ports in the carb.
Old fuel may not burn easily so be difficult to start the engine.

With new fuel in tank.
Full choke on.
Turn the engine over till it fires. (If it does...) No reason not to if spark and fuel is OK.

Let it stabilize then reduce the choke until it idles smoothly.

Don't rev it too much at this time as oil needs to work around all the places it has drained out of whilst parked up.

If all OK then drain the oil and fill with fresh.
Change the oil filter.
Then you can give it a good rev up.

The old oil will be a bit out of spec. but will be good enough to wash all the rust out.

If you want to be picky. Drain the oil out before initial start.... But if the engine if goosed you will pay for new oil/filter as an exercise
Get your bike gear on, get it oot on the road and a big cheesy grin will/should follow.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

pieee
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 05 Aug 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 07:44 - 23 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

radical wrote:
Op, check you front inboard disc as well as they rust up very quickly being cast iron and also check the timing chain tensioner as they do give trouble and are prone to sticking.


I took it apart yesterday and the brakes are better on this bike than the one I'm currently riding Razz


Pete. wrote:
Why not just check the oil and see if it starts? No use wasting time or money buying new bits for an engine you haven't heard running yet, no matter how 'honest' the previous owner was.


I know it ran before this because the old owner is a close friend of mine, sorry if I didn't mention that Smile


Walloper, I just put the tank on the other day when I took the photos so it hasn't had any fuel in it, as for the rusting on the pistons, will this still occur if it has been under a house out of the rain? and also would you have any pointers on cleaning out the carbies?

Thanks for all your help guys!
Filip.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:13 - 23 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rust (If there is any) is due to condensation of moisture in the atmosphere on the engine parts during daily temperature cycles.
The best thing to do with an engine before long term storage is to flush the engine oil system with fresh oil.
Fill with a voltile preservative and then dam up any pathways to the crankcase. Breather, inlet manifold and the exhaust pipe. Air tight sealing prevent too much ingress of moisture (and big scary spiders).

Carb cleaning is an art.
Loads of bits to get lost and fiddily as fcuk.
I would try draining the float chambers first. There should be a screw for each carb.
If the fuel is very dark colour like tea (without milk) then it may mean the carbs need a full strip down.
Not an impossible task and rather thorough-putic.
But it is still worth effort to buy some petrol system flusher/cleaner stuff from Halfrauds etc. and run that through the fuel system as per instructions on the bottle/tin.
I use Yamaha fuel stabilizer in my bike when it gets parked up for any long time too.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

pits
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Apr 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:56 - 24 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally for me, even though it may cost a few quid to do.
Strip out the plugs
Pour a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug holes
Drain the old engine oil out
Pull filter off and replace
new oil and make sure you replace the sump plug washer with a copper one.
change all other fluids, gearbox,brakes etc.
seriously check over all hydraulic lines, feeling for brittleness, don't want a brake line exploding if they are hydraulic.
take carbs off and drain any fuel out and fire a load of carb cleaner in the float chamber and everywhere else.
Put a new battery on, and spin the bike over on the starter quickly.
Put plugs in, and spin over again.
Put HT leads on
Fill with new fuel and start.

If it doesn't work, you haven't really wasted any money as most of the stuff you replace, bar oils can be used on your other one.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

pepperami
Super Spammer



Joined: 17 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:43 - 24 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

pitslayer wrote:
Personally for me, even though it may cost a few quid to do.
Strip out the plugs
Pour a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug holes
Drain the old engine oil out
Pull filter off and replace
new oil and make sure you replace the sump plug washer with a copper one.
change all other fluids, gearbox,brakes etc.
seriously check over all hydraulic lines, feeling for brittleness, don't want a brake line exploding if they are hydraulic.
take carbs off and drain any fuel out and fire a load of carb cleaner in the float chamber and everywhere else.
Put a new battery on, and spin the bike over on the starter quickly.
Put plugs in, and spin over again.
Put HT leads on
Fill with new fuel and start.

If it doesn't work, you haven't really wasted any money as most of the stuff you replace, bar oils can be used on your other one.


+1 this Thumbs Up ........ I would also take the rocker covers off and splash a bit of oil around there as well before tuning it over.
____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

pieee
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 05 Aug 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:29 - 27 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up trying to kick her over yesterday.

I put in a new battery then I poured a teaspoon of oil in the sparkies holes, then tried to kick her over, and nothing was happening silly me I forgot the fuses Razz I put some new fuses in and she cranked a little but didnt start, so I drained the oil and took off the rocker covers so I could clean her up a bit on the inside, when I get a bit further I will post the details Very Happy

I want to say thanks to everyone for all their suggestions they seem to really be helping the process along.

Thanks, Filip!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

pieee
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 05 Aug 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:31 - 27 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

pitslayer wrote:

new oil and make sure you replace the sump plug washer with a copper one.


Btw why a copper one? What difference would this make?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 16 years, 41 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.10 Sec - Server Load: 0.36 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 83.13 Kb