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1998 gsxr - what to look out for?

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Stowelly
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 01 Sep 2010    Post subject: 1998 gsxr - what to look out for? Reply with quote

Hi, planning to pickup a 1998 gsxr 600 tomorrow with only 19k on the clock at a pretty reasonable price tomorrow, was wondering what i should look out for on it?

bodywork looks ridiculously good for its age, so obviously ill checl the frame number against v5 etc, but anything else i should be aware of ?

thanks
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mistergixer
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 01 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brakes.

They're fucking shit on the SRADs.

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Stowelly
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 01 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the CCT a big job?

yeah will prob notice knocking and rattling with a quick ride round the block and not take it..... the AD for it does say the engine runs sweet and has good brakes and tyres.... so basically if it doesnt look corroded to fuck it should be a good buy? (obviously after checking the usuals like forks / chain etc)
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 01 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

headlight mounts.
all screws should be present, and all lugs and rubber grommets.

if even one is missing things WILL go wrong, involving your ram air tubes popping out every 5 seconds and your headlight wobbling around like a cerebral palsy jogger that is fat and on ketamine, as well as snapping your spider frame.

engines are pretty good on them. if it rattles, walk away. you sound like a ''mechanics'' wet dream.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith


Last edited by MaybeGuy on 21:20 - 01 Sep 2010; edited 1 time in total
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D O G
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 01 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mistergixer wrote:
Brakes.

They're fucking shit on the SRADs.

Thumbs Up


Only the rear in my experience - the pins which hold the pads in place corrode into the caliper body, and cannot be removed without (at a minimum) splitting the caliper. Chances are that this has happened if the pads are really thin and have never been replaced - ask the owner if this has been done.

Never had any probs with the front brakes at all, including trackdays - not that I'm that fast tho.

CCT does go, but is an easy fix - around £50 for a manual CCT, but that does tend to need regular adjustment, which is not that difficult. Easy to spot if the CCT is gone - the timing chain rattles/ticks on the right hand side of the engine, which will vary with revs, blip it on idle and listen for any change in the rattle noise.

Biggest problem IMO is chavvy, shit mods like aftermarket 'shotgun light' undertrays and small, shitty indicators. Can lead to poor wiring and associated issues - I should know, I did it to mine. Embarassed Yellow screens have also been fitted to some poor bikes over the years, which is an appalling state of affairs.

Oh, the fasteners are generally made of cheese, and fork bottoms corrode on the front at the top - just below the dust seals.

mattsprattuk wrote:
headlight mounts.
all screws should be present, and all lugs and rubber grommets.


Better check I still have mine.....
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 02 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mistergixer wrote:
Brakes.

They're fucking shit on the SRADs.

Thumbs Up


Tokico 6pots in general, are prone to seizing up.

So if theres a load of travel at the lever and the brakes are very grabby, itll want a full caliper overhaul, including seals most likely...
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 07:48 - 02 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

evoboy wrote:
mistergixer wrote:
Brakes.

They're fucking shit on the SRADs.

Thumbs Up


Tokico 6pots in general, are prone to seizing up.

So if theres a load of travel at the lever and the brakes are very grabby, itll want a full caliper overhaul, including seals most likely...


750 has 6 pots. 6 only has 4, and theyre not anywhere near as bad as people say, theyre just usually un maintained, and getting on 13 years old or so on original seals.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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T1z3R
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 02 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

check front wheel and head bearings for play from people learning to wheelie on it.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 02 Sep 2010    Post subject: Re: 1998 gsxr - what to look out for? Reply with quote

Stowelly wrote:
Hi, planning to pickup a 1998 gsxr 600 tomorrow with only 19k on the clock at a pretty reasonable price tomorrow, was wondering what i should look out for on it?

bodywork looks ridiculously good for its age, so obviously ill checl the frame number against v5 etc, but anything else i should be aware of ?

thanks

Yea If you look a little bit harder you can find better bikes that arn't going to kill you.
CBR600F is a much better bike.
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Stowelly
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 02 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i got it! everything mentioned seems fine, only noticable problems are the battery is fucked and the choke seems to stick, but they are all easily rectifiable! worked out at just over a grand, and after a few hundred quid for service and other little bits it should be perfect! Very Happy
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Davie_G71
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 03 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good choice.

Mine is a 97 and i've had almost every issue raised here over the last 2 years of ownership.

The latest being having to rebuild the rear caliper and snapping one of the pins in the caliper. Nightmare job to rectify but ho hum.

Be careful if you change to an aftermarket can without jetting. Mine bogs down a little because of this i'm told. And even after a proper set up it can still bog down.

Ballistic fun though, it's not happy unless it's being ridden above 9000rpm.

Enjoy!

D
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Mellow Matt
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 03 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fun bike Very Happy Beware it jumping out of gear like mine did though, total PITA
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Davie_G71
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 03 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yes, mine tends to 'miss a gear' if I'm shifting up without using the clutch.. Makes for a VERY scary moment.
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Davie_G71
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 03 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mellow Matt wrote:
Fun bike Very Happy Beware it jumping out of gear like mine did though, total PITA


Matt, i remember following that thread in PH - very insightful. I dread having to do this.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 03 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stowelly wrote:
well i got it! everything mentioned seems fine, only noticable problems are the battery is fucked and the choke seems to stick, but they are all easily rectifiable! worked out at just over a grand, and after a few hundred quid for service and other little bits it should be perfect! Very Happy


Nice standard bike and a good price - tho I don't really see why you need to spend a few hundred quid on a service - there's not that much that they need that you can't do yourself, and I'm no skillful mechanic!
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 03 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
you sound like a ''mechanics'' wet dream.


stowelly wrote:
after a few hundred quid for service and other little bits it should be perfect! Very Happy


lol
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Mellow Matt
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 04 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davie_G71 wrote:
Mellow Matt wrote:
Fun bike Very Happy Beware it jumping out of gear like mine did though, total PITA


Matt, i remember following that thread in PH - very insightful. I dread having to do this.


Cheers Smile It was easier than I thought it'd be. Still a PITA though, and still expensive Sad Still, I learnt a bit, so it wasn't too bad.
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Redoko
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 04 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not bad at all, enjoy her. Thumbs Up

Welcome to the SRAD group. Smile

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Stowelly
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 17 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tristan. wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
you sound like a ''mechanics'' wet dream.


stowelly wrote:
after a few hundred quid for service and other little bits it should be perfect! Very Happy


lol


dont know why thats unreasonable?

30 quid for some irridium plugs

30-40 for oil and filter, plus the tool i need to change the oil filter

tenner for some coolant

however much an air filter is?

and to clean / balance the carb, check the valve shims, and buy some new ones if necessary a garage is gonna charge at least 200 quid really arent they?
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D O G
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 17 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stowelly wrote:

dont know why thats unreasonable?

30 quid for some irridium plugs

30-40 for oil and filter, plus the tool i need to change the oil filter

tenner for some coolant

however much an air filter is?

and to clean / balance the carb, check the valve shims, and buy some new ones if necessary a garage is gonna charge at least 200 quid really arent they?


Iridium plugs are a waste of money.

The only tool I've ever used to change a filter is my hand, and sometimes a piece of sandpaper to get a good grip.

Don't see much point in changing the coolant, unless it is overheating. Personal pref tho.

Carbs won't need cleaning, balancing is a fairly quick job, but again, I would only have this done if it was running poorly.

As for the clearances, that isn't a huge job, again I'd probably sack it off unless it sounded like a bag of bolts and had high miles. What is the milage?

You spend your money how you please - I really don't care, but I'm just pointing out some potential savings for petrol money = riding fun.
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Stowelly
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 17 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
Stowelly wrote:

dont know why thats unreasonable?

30 quid for some irridium plugs

30-40 for oil and filter, plus the tool i need to change the oil filter

tenner for some coolant

however much an air filter is?

and to clean / balance the carb, check the valve shims, and buy some new ones if necessary a garage is gonna charge at least 200 quid really arent they?


Iridium plugs are a waste of money.

The only tool I've ever used to change a filter is my hand, and sometimes a piece of sandpaper to get a good grip.

Don't see much point in changing the coolant, unless it is overheating. Personal pref tho.

Carbs won't need cleaning, balancing is a fairly quick job, but again, I would only have this done if it was running poorly.

As for the clearances, that isn't a huge job, again I'd probably sack it off unless it sounded like a bag of bolts and had high miles. What is the milage?

You spend your money how you please - I really don't care, but I'm just pointing out some potential savings for petrol money = riding fun.


nah i appreciate your input, there is some slight niggly running, that was suggested to me a carb balance was sorted...... is it really not worth checking the clearances? heard that it can sieze the engine up if their not right.... mileage is 19k.

fair enough can skip the irridium plugs, figured they would be worthwhile as they made a noticable difference on my NSR125

figured the filter would need a tool, as they sell them, didnt realise it was easy enough to sort by hand.

also figured coolant needed regular changing, dont think it over heats, i mean after long running through slow traffic it does get to 100 degrees, but ive been told this is normal for gixxers.

im all for extra petrol money! would rather buy a new set of tyres, and a couple of bits of fairing to be fair if i didnt need to!
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D O G
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 17 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it it running a bit lumpy at low revs then I'd not be too concerned - SRADs don't really run well under 6k revs. Balancing the carbs, AFAIK primarily helps the idling, rather than the running through the rev range. It will literally be a 10 min job for a mechanic once he's got the airbox off - which takes 5 min, so not a big cost.

Cleaning the carbs takes ages, and needs new seals and parts etc, and won't do sfa - I've done it myself, total waste of time, unless the bike has been sitting for months and won't run at all.

Mine saw 105-110 deg in traffic - as long as the fan kicks in and controls it I see no probs, however changing coolant is something you can easily do yourself.

Oil filter has good access so easy to get a good grip - should only be hand tight anyway.

The service manual says that the clearances should be checked every 15,000 miles. Don't know whether yours has a history to say it's been serviced?
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 17 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clearances can probably be left until 30k ish, you can check them yourself though without any prior experience, only becomes tricky when you want to adjust them.

Coolant etc lasts ages, can change it pretty easily yourself if you wanted to though.

Either stab a screwdriver through the oil filter or just buy a £4 filter removal tool. I made a filter tool for my brother out of an old socket and a bit of bicycle chain, he said it worked fine.

Air filter is about £20 normally, can get more expensive ones and cheaper ones, chances are yours is not that bad and cleaning it out will suffice.

Plugs are capable of lasting longer than 18k, take them out and check them, measure and adjust the gap with a £4 tool.
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