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| jase1989 |
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 jase1989 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 26 Sep 2010 Karma :   
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 15:43 - 26 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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Where to start..
A K&N filter in the airbox or a pod one?
Did the rev counter work when you got it? That could be symptomatic of something else. It's an electronic rev counter that runs off the igniter box. They don't normally fail which could indicate a wiring fault or a charging fault.
What year is it?
Do you have a multimeter? Check it's charging (measure voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running, should be around14-15V and rises slightly as you rev it up).
Check the air filter. A clogged air filter can cause what you describe. As can a variety of other things including a dodgy ignition switch (had this twice on kawasaki 500 twins), water in the fuel, a blocked tank breather (try running with the fuel cap open) or a bad wiring connection on the ignition system.
Anyone know if they used those dodgy alternator rotors fitted to old model GPZs in the ER5 too?
Obviously, if you got it from a dealer, take it back there. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| jase1989 |
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 jase1989 L Plate Warrior
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| Glenben92 |
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 Glenben92 Nearly there...

Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Karma :  
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 Posted: 19:05 - 26 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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Possibly plug caps? make sure everything in the ignition circuit is intact, clean and dry. ____________________ 57 Huoniao HN125-8 - , 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S -
99 Yamaha FZS 600 -
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010 |
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| flumpy7 |
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 flumpy7 Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 31 May 2008 Karma :  
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 20:39 - 26 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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l'm thinking electrical problem to be honest. Two reasons:
1) It usually is.
2) Your rev counter isn't working.
As I said before, the rev counter takes a signal from the CDI box, when the ignition sparks, it sends a pulse to the rev counter. More pulses = higher needle position. It's unusual for an electronic rev counter to break (never had it happen, and I've had most things that can break on a bike do so). That suggests to me that either the wiring to it is damaged or the CDI isn't sending it a pulse.
So, it's not unreasonable to assume there is at least one dodgy wire, connection or componant in the ignition system as things currently stand. Where there's one, there could be two.
It may be a worthwhile exercise going over the bike, undoing any connector blocks you can find, having a good look for any corrosion (both on the terminals and where the wire enters them), giving them a spray of WD40 and reconnecting them.
Of particular importance would be the CDI connector block, both IC igniter connectors, the connector that joins the wires coming from the engine to the loom and the two terminals that attach to the ignition coils.
For interest, I'd also check the connector block on the starter solenoid which also contains the main fuse. There is a wire in there that has corroded away to nothing on all three EX500 based bikes I've owned. That wire supplies power to the whole bikes electrical system and they can do odd things when it's on its way out (rev counter malfunctions amongst them).
I could of course be proved wrong and you have a blocked jet or something but there is an old addage for motorcycle repairs "9 out of 10 carburettion problems are electrical.". ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| ms51ves3 |
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 ms51ves3 Super Spammer

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| jase1989 |
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 jase1989 L Plate Warrior
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| Ariel Badger |
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 Ariel Badger Super Spammer

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| Imonster |
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 Imonster World Chat Champion

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

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| Bull |
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 Bull Nitrous Nuisance
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| Willson |
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 Willson Traffic Copper

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| jase1989 |
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 jase1989 L Plate Warrior
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| Bull |
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 Bull Nitrous Nuisance
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| joe. |
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 joe. Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:32 - 29 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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i had the exact same problem with my gpz500, it turns out it was misfiring from a failing coil pack
cheers
joe ____________________ current: firestorm
previous:gsxr 750, rsv, fz6, xj6, firestorm, bandit 600/825, zx7r, gpz500, gs500, zzr600, xj600, zzr600, cbr 600, xj600, cb500, Kawasaki Gpz500, Aprilia rs125, Suzuki gs 125, Kawasaki gpz 500, Suzuki gt 185, Yamaha dtr 125, Yamaha ybr 125, cagiva mito, Yamaha dtr 125, Honda ns 125, Honda cb 125t, derbi senda, gilera dna, peugoet speedfight, gilera runner, mbk mach G, gilera gsm, derbi gpr, peugeot speedfight, italjet formula, derbi predator. since january 2009. |
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| jase1989 |
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 jase1989 L Plate Warrior
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 15:57 - 30 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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Voltage is normal, your charging system is working.
Running on one cylinder with the other kicking in would certainly explain your symptoms.
There are a few tests you can do because you now know exactly where to concentrate.
Looking at the wiring diagram, an ER5 uses a wasted spark which narrows it down some.
After changing the plugs (this might fix it). Try swapping the plug leads over. If the misfire changes sides, it's definately an electrical problem and almost certainly somewhere between your plug cap and the CDI unit. Also unplug, clean and reattach the two electrical connectors on the coil.
If it doesn't change sides, it's unlikely to be an electrical problem and I'd probably be looking at the carbs next.
So, assuming it's electrical ( dodgy carb wouldn't normally kick in and out like that). I would next swap over the connectors on the coils (they have two wires attached to each coil, take them of one coil and attach them to the other, asuming they reach).
In this case, if the misfire stays on the same side, you have a duff coil/HT lead/plug cap. If it changes sides, you have a wiring fault further up the line (power supply to the coil or between the CDI and the coil).
You can test the coil, HT lead and plug cap using your multimeter. I'll have a look to see if I can find the readings you need when I get home. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| jase1989 |
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 jase1989 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 26 Sep 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 18:07 - 30 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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So next step wouold be to get some new spark plugs and then if that doesnt work swop over the cap that goes over the sparks and see if it changes sides or not? I am ok to do that? Im sorry for all the silly questins, Ive not really got involved with any bikes before  |
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| ms51ves3 |
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 ms51ves3 Super Spammer

Joined: 07 Jun 2007 Karma :     
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 Posted: 19:58 - 30 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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You may as well try swapping the caps first before buying plugs, as swapping the caps over costs you nothing but time  |
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:07 - 30 Sep 2010 Post subject: |
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| ms51ves3 wrote: | You may as well try swapping the caps first before buying plugs, as swapping the caps over costs you nothing but time  |
It would certainly be a quick and easy way to check if the coil and CDI are ok. Swap the plug caps over and if it still runs on the "good" cylinder, the actual ignition system is ok.
Mind you, by the time you've taken the tank off to get at them, you may as well just change the plugs. It'll be knackered anyway if it's been swimming in petrol with the bike running on one cylinder.
Beginners 101:
You need to take the petrol tank off to get at the plugs. Undo the two hoses attached to the fuel tap (it's a vacuum tap so the fuel wont run out, just a dribble that's left in the hose/tap). Detach any plastics that are fixed to it. Lift the saddle and undo the big bolt at the back of the tank. It should then lift up slightly and pull back off two rubber bungs it sits on at the front. There may be a breather hose or two attached to the tank too, either detach them from the tank too or take them off with it. If there is a fuel guage (which I don't think there is), there will be a snap connector to undo too.
You can now see the top of the engine. The sparkplug caps just pull off upwards.
To take the plugs out, clean out any muck from the plug recess first as I described earlier then undo them anticlockwise using a plug spanner (might be one in the tool kit). To fit the new plugs, screw them in clockwise being careful not to cross thread them, it shouldn't take any force to screw them in, just twiddling the end of the plug spanner between your fingers. Once it's screwed in all the way down to "finger tight", tighten it another 1/4 turn with the spanner, no more.
You may need to remove and discard a small screw-on cap from the very top of the new sparkplugs before you fit them (not all have them, if you can see a screw thread, there is no cap there). Undo the cap with some pliers.
The coils are on the other end of the spark plug caps. Below is the bit in the workshop manual showing how to test the ignition coils.
Some tips:
There will be enough fuel in the carbs to run the engine for a short while with the tank off. Long enough to see if it is firing on one or two cylinders.
Take some digital photos at each stage before you remove a part so you can check how things were put together when you're reassembling. Particularly relevant for routing of wires and hoses.
A drop of oil or WD40 placed on each header pipe will tell you if that side is firing without having to burn your fingers (it'll burn off if it's firing).
A workshop manual is a worthwhile investment. The bit I've put below is from a KLE500 manual which uses many of the same parts as your bike.
Have a bit of thick cardboard ready to put the tank down on.
Right click and view image to see full size.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/coiltest.png ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| ms51ves3 |
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 ms51ves3 Super Spammer

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

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| ms51ves3 |
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 ms51ves3 Super Spammer

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 83 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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