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Kawasaki ER-5... POWER LOSS!

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jase1989
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Kawasaki ER-5... POWER LOSS! Reply with quote

Hi, I have a problem with my er 5. I only bought it yesterday!
It was all running fine a slight back fire on the exhaust but I thought it was all ok.

Now today I went out on my bike and it just started to splutter abit and then lost all power. My rev counter dont work so I dont know what revs it goes up to ect but I have the throttle pulled as far back as it goes and it crawls to 60mph and now and then it flicks back to full power and the revs shoot up and its back to normal but then it dies again?

It has an after market exhaust the previous owner put on its called viper on the can but ive not seen it before and it also has a K&N filter on but I dont think he has had the carbs rejetted or anything,

Any ideas what it could be it just dont seem to rev adn takes ages to build up speed
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where to start..

A K&N filter in the airbox or a pod one?

Did the rev counter work when you got it? That could be symptomatic of something else. It's an electronic rev counter that runs off the igniter box. They don't normally fail which could indicate a wiring fault or a charging fault.

What year is it?

Do you have a multimeter? Check it's charging (measure voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running, should be around14-15V and rises slightly as you rev it up).

Check the air filter. A clogged air filter can cause what you describe. As can a variety of other things including a dodgy ignition switch (had this twice on kawasaki 500 twins), water in the fuel, a blocked tank breather (try running with the fuel cap open) or a bad wiring connection on the ignition system.

Anyone know if they used those dodgy alternator rotors fitted to old model GPZs in the ER5 too?

Obviously, if you got it from a dealer, take it back there.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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jase1989
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rev counter didnt work when I bought it - didnt really think I would need one.

Its a year 2000, A4 model i think. I dont have a multimeter so I cant test it. I can go check the air filter tomorrow.

Thanks for the ideas, seems strange why it works then dont work :S
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Glenben92
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly plug caps? make sure everything in the ignition circuit is intact, clean and dry.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds obvious but is the choke on or sticking?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

l'm thinking electrical problem to be honest. Two reasons:
1) It usually is.
2) Your rev counter isn't working.

As I said before, the rev counter takes a signal from the CDI box, when the ignition sparks, it sends a pulse to the rev counter. More pulses = higher needle position. It's unusual for an electronic rev counter to break (never had it happen, and I've had most things that can break on a bike do so). That suggests to me that either the wiring to it is damaged or the CDI isn't sending it a pulse.

So, it's not unreasonable to assume there is at least one dodgy wire, connection or componant in the ignition system as things currently stand. Where there's one, there could be two.

It may be a worthwhile exercise going over the bike, undoing any connector blocks you can find, having a good look for any corrosion (both on the terminals and where the wire enters them), giving them a spray of WD40 and reconnecting them.

Of particular importance would be the CDI connector block, both IC igniter connectors, the connector that joins the wires coming from the engine to the loom and the two terminals that attach to the ignition coils.

For interest, I'd also check the connector block on the starter solenoid which also contains the main fuse. There is a wire in there that has corroded away to nothing on all three EX500 based bikes I've owned. That wire supplies power to the whole bikes electrical system and they can do odd things when it's on its way out (rev counter malfunctions amongst them).

I could of course be proved wrong and you have a blocked jet or something but there is an old addage for motorcycle repairs "9 out of 10 carburettion problems are electrical.".
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 26 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It's unusual for an electronic rev counter to break...


It's the one of the first things to pop when the reg/rec gives up the ghost, followed by the CDI.

I'd strongly recommend not running the bike until you've got a multimeter across the battery.
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jase1989
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have started uni so I haven't had time to look at it much, the guy I bought it off said he had the same problem before and it was due to the air filter so tomorrow I am going to put the original one back in.

As for the rev counter I did a little googling and found it was more then likely due to teh reg/rec, It got replaced in june. So should be ok now.?
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you are loosing combustion on one cylinder. Change the plugs.
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Imonster
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jase1989 wrote:


As for the rev counter I did a little googling and found it was more then likely due to teh reg/rec, It got replaced in june. So should be ok now.?


I had similar issues with an ER5 - replaced the reg/rec which didn't solve the issue. Replaced the battery, which didn't solve the issue. Replaced the alternator - which didn't solve the issue.

Turned out the new (brand new and packaged) reg/rec I'd stuck on there was either faulty from the get go, or died within a few miles. Everything was fine following another reg/rec change.

How I laughed Rolling Eyes

In fairness, the bike went on for another 15k miles till I sold it, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's still going today; they're fairly bullet proof little bikes, with a few common niggles that need to be addressed from time to time IME.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Sounds like you are loosing combustion on one cylinder. Change the plugs.


Also this ^^. Certainly worth doing if you have all the bits off that let you get at them.

I would strongly suggest before removing the plugs that you squirt a load of WD40 down the sparkplug holes and let it soak for an hour or so, then give them a blast out with an air hose. Loads of little bits of grit and dust get stuck down there and will drop straight into the engine as soon as you remove the plug otherwise.

Have a good look down there with a torch to make sure you got it all.

The other way (in absence of an airline) is to pick it all out with a blob of blue-tak on a stick or some long tweezers.

You will need a long, tube-type sparkplug spanner. Sockets will not fit unless they are exceptionally thin walled.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jase1989 wrote:
I have started uni so I haven't had time to look at it much, the guy I bought it off said he had the same problem before and it was due to the air filter so tomorrow I am going to put the original one back in.

As for the rev counter I did a little googling and found it was more then likely due to teh reg/rec, It got replaced in june. So should be ok now.?


If it's a K&N filter. Wash it in hot soapy water, allow it to dry then lightly oil it (I use ATF to oil mine). They cost a fair bit but their main advantage is that they are almost infinately reuseable (should outlast the bike).

As for the reg/rec. We come back to checking the output voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You can get a simple but perfectly serviceable one in Wilkinsons for £7.99.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Bull
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
jase1989 wrote:
I have started uni so I haven't had time to look at it much, the guy I bought it off said he had the same problem before and it was due to the air filter so tomorrow I am going to put the original one back in.

As for the rev counter I did a little googling and found it was more then likely due to teh reg/rec, It got replaced in june. So should be ok now.?


If it's a K&N filter. Wash it in hot soapy water, allow it to dry then lightly oil it (I use ATF to oil mine). They cost a fair bit but their main advantage is that they are almost infinately reuseable (should outlast the bike).

As for the reg/rec. We come back to checking the output voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You can get a simple but perfectly serviceable one in Wilkinsons for £7.99.


Im with the Guys saying check to Voltage reason being is my m8s gsxr's Voltage reg went and did the Rev counter and CDI unit, It will also kill the battery,

My CBR keeped going flat and i checked the voltage and it was going up and past 18volts :o
So changed the Voltage Reg before any more damage was done,

Also Clocks for a ER5 go for good money aset i watched on ebay with low ish miles was @ £97 odd when i sure them only reson i was looking is because i brought a 1999 ER5 off my Boss as he had dropped it and i was woundering weather to break it or repair it i have repaired it as it got fsh and only has 12/13k on the clock Wink

Hope you get it sorted if not is it Blue/pupley colour could do with a tank as mine has a dent in it lol
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Willson
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had this sort of problem, changed the plugs and everything was OK.

If you it's a carb problem then make sure they are sync'ed, and that the end of the carb vent tube is not too close to the air intake as this will cause fuel starvation and the engine won't rev about 5000rpm and will have poor performance above 3500. (Says my Haynes manual). Also check the fuel filters, pipes, vacuum hoses, air filter etc are in good condition and pipes aren't pinched.

Hope this helps.
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jase1989
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PostPosted: 06:20 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

As for the reg/rec. We come back to checking the output voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You can get a simple but perfectly serviceable one in Wilkinsons for £7.99.


I am gong to get this and give this a try,I have cleaned the K&N out and put it back in.

If I hold my clutch in and rev it revs just as normal. I am going to change the plugs after I have checked the voltage. Do I just check the voltage by the battery?

Cheers
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Bull
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PostPosted: 06:24 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jase1989 wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:

As for the reg/rec. We come back to checking the output voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You can get a simple but perfectly serviceable one in Wilkinsons for £7.99.


I am gong to get this and give this a try,I have cleaned the K&N out and put it back in.

If I hold my clutch in and rev it revs just as normal. I am going to change the plugs after I have checked the voltage. Do I just check the voltage by the battery?

Cheers


Battery with it Running and bring the revs up you should see if the Volts pic up but not much over 13v tbh
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joe.
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had the exact same problem with my gpz500, it turns out it was misfiring from a failing coil pack
cheers
joe
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jase1989
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 30 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had that multimeter on it and it was around 14.2V while revving it went up but only slighty by 0.1-0.01 decimals is that normal?

I have noticed though that only one of the exhaust pipes is getting hot from a cold start, The left one is so hot you can just about touch it but the right is so cold you can touch it as much as you want. Does that mean its just running on one cylinder? Is that why the power comes back when its running back to two and then going again? It doesnt seem to come back anymore. I have stopped riding it for now anyway untill I can fix it.

Thank you
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 30 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Voltage is normal, your charging system is working.

Running on one cylinder with the other kicking in would certainly explain your symptoms.

There are a few tests you can do because you now know exactly where to concentrate.

Looking at the wiring diagram, an ER5 uses a wasted spark which narrows it down some.

After changing the plugs (this might fix it). Try swapping the plug leads over. If the misfire changes sides, it's definately an electrical problem and almost certainly somewhere between your plug cap and the CDI unit. Also unplug, clean and reattach the two electrical connectors on the coil.

If it doesn't change sides, it's unlikely to be an electrical problem and I'd probably be looking at the carbs next.

So, assuming it's electrical ( dodgy carb wouldn't normally kick in and out like that). I would next swap over the connectors on the coils (they have two wires attached to each coil, take them of one coil and attach them to the other, asuming they reach).

In this case, if the misfire stays on the same side, you have a duff coil/HT lead/plug cap. If it changes sides, you have a wiring fault further up the line (power supply to the coil or between the CDI and the coil).

You can test the coil, HT lead and plug cap using your multimeter. I'll have a look to see if I can find the readings you need when I get home.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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jase1989
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 30 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

So next step wouold be to get some new spark plugs and then if that doesnt work swop over the cap that goes over the sparks and see if it changes sides or not? I am ok to do that? Im sorry for all the silly questins, Ive not really got involved with any bikes before Embarassed
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 30 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may as well try swapping the caps first before buying plugs, as swapping the caps over costs you nothing but time Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 30 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
You may as well try swapping the caps first before buying plugs, as swapping the caps over costs you nothing but time Thumbs Up


It would certainly be a quick and easy way to check if the coil and CDI are ok. Swap the plug caps over and if it still runs on the "good" cylinder, the actual ignition system is ok.

Mind you, by the time you've taken the tank off to get at them, you may as well just change the plugs. It'll be knackered anyway if it's been swimming in petrol with the bike running on one cylinder.

Beginners 101:

You need to take the petrol tank off to get at the plugs. Undo the two hoses attached to the fuel tap (it's a vacuum tap so the fuel wont run out, just a dribble that's left in the hose/tap). Detach any plastics that are fixed to it. Lift the saddle and undo the big bolt at the back of the tank. It should then lift up slightly and pull back off two rubber bungs it sits on at the front. There may be a breather hose or two attached to the tank too, either detach them from the tank too or take them off with it. If there is a fuel guage (which I don't think there is), there will be a snap connector to undo too.

You can now see the top of the engine. The sparkplug caps just pull off upwards.

To take the plugs out, clean out any muck from the plug recess first as I described earlier then undo them anticlockwise using a plug spanner (might be one in the tool kit). To fit the new plugs, screw them in clockwise being careful not to cross thread them, it shouldn't take any force to screw them in, just twiddling the end of the plug spanner between your fingers. Once it's screwed in all the way down to "finger tight", tighten it another 1/4 turn with the spanner, no more.

You may need to remove and discard a small screw-on cap from the very top of the new sparkplugs before you fit them (not all have them, if you can see a screw thread, there is no cap there). Undo the cap with some pliers.

The coils are on the other end of the spark plug caps. Below is the bit in the workshop manual showing how to test the ignition coils.

Some tips:

There will be enough fuel in the carbs to run the engine for a short while with the tank off. Long enough to see if it is firing on one or two cylinders.

Take some digital photos at each stage before you remove a part so you can check how things were put together when you're reassembling. Particularly relevant for routing of wires and hoses.

A drop of oil or WD40 placed on each header pipe will tell you if that side is firing without having to burn your fingers (it'll burn off if it's firing).

A workshop manual is a worthwhile investment. The bit I've put below is from a KLE500 manual which uses many of the same parts as your bike.

Have a bit of thick cardboard ready to put the tank down on.

Right click and view image to see full size.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/coiltest.png
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 30 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
...tighten it another 1/4 turn with the spanner, no more.


1/4 of a turn sounds quite a lot, I wouldn't even turn 1/8.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 01 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:


1/4 of a turn sounds quite a lot, I wouldn't even turn 1/8.


It's what NGK recommend for a brand new plug fitted with a crush washer. Says it on the box.

If I was refitting an old one, I'd do less but I've always given a brand new one a 1/4 turn.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
ms51ves3 wrote:


1/4 of a turn sounds quite a lot, I wouldn't even turn 1/8.


It's what NGK recommend for a brand new plug fitted with a crush washer. Says it on the box.

If I was refitting an old one, I'd do less but I've always given a brand new one a 1/4 turn.


Forgot to consider the washer Doh!
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