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Sealing chemical metal (engine cover)

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Misc
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Sealing chemical metal (engine cover) Reply with quote

Evening,

Patched up an engine cover with Chemical metal & it's done a good job but oil is now starting to soak through, it's not leaking yet tho. Going to take the cover off again but wanting some sort of oil sealant that can withstand the heat. Will apply this over the chemical metal (hopefully)

Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why don't you look for a used one on ebay or davidsilvers or something? If it doesn't hold first time then second time is doubtful. My CBer engine cover was £13 on evilbay. Don't forget £4 for a gasket too.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean by hold? The chemical metal is holding fine, the oil isn't getting through cracks or gaps, just seems to be soaking through.

I've looked a few times for a new cover but prices don't seem to drop below £40, or there's not the side i need.

£13 sounds like a good deal, will keep a look out.


Last edited by Misc on 17:59 - 28 Sep 2010; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not all chemical metals are the same.

JB weld is one of the best.

They used to paint the inside of alloy crankcases with heat resistant enamel paint on some older brit bikes because the alloy was pourous. This would probably work in what you're doing too.

Not sure what modern oilways would make of it if any flaked off though.

You will have great difficulty in getting anything to bond to porous chemical metal soaked in oil. I'd suggest taking it off, degreasing and starting from scratch.

If it's a small hole, you could also put a nut and bolt through it (providing it doesn't foul any moving parts on the inside) with o-rings either side.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Not all chemical metals are the same.

JB weld is one of the best.

They used to paint the inside of alloy crankcases with heat resistant enamel paint on some older brit bikes because the alloy was pourous. This would probably work in what you're doing too.

Not sure what modern oilways would make of it if any flaked off though.

You will have great difficulty in getting anything to bond to porous chemical metal soaked in oil. I'd suggest taking it off, degreasing and starting from scratch.

If it's a small hole, you could also put a nut and bolt through it (providing it doesn't foul any moving parts on the inside) with o-rings either side.


Interesting, will have a look for this stuff, thanks. Will the old stuff be easy enough to chip away?

Here's the damage (before) it's more of a slit.


https://img101.imageshack.us/img101/9871/dsc00208zu.jpg
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Araldite have a metal based glue which works well.#
But JB Weld is a known winner.

You need to ensure the area is completely free of any grease/oil.

Use paint thinners to dry it off. before putting the glue on.
Lean the bike over so the oil can't reach the repair.

Rough up the area to provide a 'key' for the glue to lock into.
Most glues rely on mechanical properties to bond.
It hooks into microscopic surface imperfections between parts.

(Some glues melt the base material and weld on.)
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Misc
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Araldite have a metal based glue which works well.#
But JB Weld is a known winner.

You need to ensure the area is completely free of any grease/oil.

Use paint thinners to dry it off. before putting the glue on.
Lean the bike over so the oil can't reach the repair.

Rough up the area to provide a 'key' for the glue to lock into.
Most glues rely on mechanical properties to bond.
It hooks into microscopic surface imperfections between parts.

(Some glues melt the base material and weld on.)


Brilliant, thanks.

I'll give this a go. Got a gasket lying around so i might get the glue tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may be worthwhile glueing something over the top of it using the chemical metal. Glues work best at sticking one thing to another rather than just sitting on top of one surface. A wee bit of alloy plate cut and bent to shape for example.

Or you could get it welded.

Another option is lumiweld low temperature aluminium solder, also a permanant fix.

As has been said, degreasing is essential. I use brake cleaner to degrease metal prior to glueing.

Mind you. That a bandit? £50 will get you a pattern engine cover if it is. People are always crashing bandits.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It may be worthwhile glueing something over the top of it using the chemical metal. Glues work best at sticking one thing to another rather than just sitting on top of one surface. A wee bit of alloy plate cut and bent to shape for example.

Or you could get it welded.

Another option is lumiweld low temperature aluminium solder, also a permanant fix.

As has been said, degreasing is essential. I use brake cleaner to degrease metal prior to glueing.

Mind you. That a bandit? £50 will get you a pattern engine cover if it is. People are always crashing bandits.


Thanks again, excellent info. Smile

(Yup, it's a Bandit. Not keeping it long so don't want to spend out on it really).
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 07:24 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They used to paint the inside of alloy crankcases with heat resistant enamel paint on some older brit bikes because the alloy was pourous. This would probably work in what you're doing too.

Glyptol. Wink
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Casper
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that the bandit/teapot gsx engine? Lots of them in brakers. Also join this forum https://forum.oldskoolsuzuki.info/cgi-bin/Yabb/YaBB.pl as there are lots of these engines getting broken for parts as lots of projects being built.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the sake of £50 just change the part. If you're not planning on keeping it long then you'll need to change the part to sell it, no one is going to buy a bike with a crankcase cover held together chemical metal soaked in oil.
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Araldite wont let oil through.

Ive used it on the inside of the genny cover on my zx6 after it was worn down till the metal was porus.

Not been a problem in 20k miles.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bet you could get a solid second hand one of those for a tenner. I went through a couple of those when I had a Bandit.

Gaz
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Misc
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

1888 wrote:
Is that the bandit/teapot gsx engine? Lots of them in brakers. Also join this forum https://forum.oldskoolsuzuki.info/cgi-bin/Yabb/YaBB.pl as there are lots of these engines getting broken for parts as lots of projects being built.


Will give this a look, thanks.

Robby wrote:
For the sake of £50 just change the part. If you're not planning on keeping it long then you'll need to change the part to sell it, no one is going to buy a bike with a crankcase cover held together chemical metal soaked in oil.



£50 is a lot for the price it'll probably be going for. It's not going to be chemical metal soaked in oil, hence this thread. Wink

evoboy wrote:
Araldite wont let oil through.

Ive used it on the inside of the genny cover on my zx6 after it was worn down till the metal was porus.

Not been a problem in 20k miles.


Will have a read up on this also. Thanks.

Gazdaman wrote:
I bet you could get a solid second hand one of those for a tenner. I went through a couple of those when I had a Bandit.

Gaz


Doesn't seem like there's any on ebay at the moment (decent used prices) will keep an eye on the forums.
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