Welding Aluminium

[moto]

I have made a sump guard/bash plate out of 2mm aluminium sheet.
It's in 3 pieces and I need to join them.

I don't have any welding equipment, is there any other way to securely join the aluminuim without welding?

I know I can try to find a welder and take it to him but if there is another way I would like to try it first.

[Digit]

Rivets.

Roy.
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Happy daze!

[MarJay]

[c_dug]

Drill + metal brackets + nuts and bolts + that blue stuff that i've forgotten the name of that stops the nuts and bolts coming apart.


=


No need for welder.
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[Robby]

You could braze it. A few low temp alumium brazing rods are about a fiver, then a gas torch. MAPP gas is preferably but more expensive, plumbing supplies shop should be better value than halfords.

[moto]

Thanks for the replies.

I do have a rivet gun but I have cut the pieces to butt together.
I could always recut the side pieces with an overlap so that I can rivet them together.

But before I do that, I have a blow torch and would like to try to braze it.

Are these the correct sort of rods to use?
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DURAFIX-EASYWELD-5-ROD-LOW-TEMP-ALUMINIUM-WELDING-KIT_W0QQitemZ220434019040QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item3352e432e0

[swampy]

[yandy_yay]

[moto]

After reading thier instructions I am not sure whether to go for

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150373243242&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

or this one

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360296007056&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[robocog]

Used either Aluweld or Lumiweld to make a coolant temperature sensor takeoff on a bit of pipe for the kit car (actually a thermo switch for the fan IIRC)

I will ask the bloke that I borrowed a couple of sticks off as I know he had bought both at shows, but not certain which he brought round

Yes the stainless to scratch the surface is a very important part of the job

Mine worked fine and has held up to the task of keeping the joint water tight under pressure for the past few years (its not a particularly stressed component though in my case so not sure how strong the joints really are)

I used a big propane bottle with a burner head I bought from Lidls ages ago which gets plenty hot enough for silver soldering and hot enough to melt aluminium

Only issues I can really see you having is getting enough heat into what is a very effective heat sink

Its tricky to judge how hot things are getting and the parent metal needs to get almost to the point of getting floppy for it to work so be careful not to melt an unwanted hole...keep the heat source moving

Forward planning is VERY important when doing this kind of thing and its wise to have another person available ...even as a third hand or another set of eyes and fire extinguisher / damp towels on hand

TBH best bet is to find someone with a TIG set that will make the job look fab for not much money as its possibly going to be quite visible if its a sump guard

My fan switch takeoff is pretty much well hidden and though not pretty ...is fully functional

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[Ariel Badger]

If the bash plate is ornamental just rivet or solder it with Lumiweld. If it is actually going to be used find a welder with decent TIG skills.
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[Chalky.]

Chuck norris would be able to sort it with his tongue.

[Ariel Badger]

Just read the OP again. 2mm is in no way thick enough for a bash-plate. My HS has 6mm of plate protecting it and it still has dents in it.
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Bikers make great organ donors, get 115 on your licence today.

[robocog]

Found some photo's of the Lumiweld temp switch adapter for the kit car...not megga pretty, but fully functional
(and yes those are chatter marks from my old Myford)
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Needs a bigger garage...

[G]

As above, 2mm aluminium won't make a very good bash plate at all . Think I might even want thicker than 2mm steel - with a bike and rider on top a sharp rock will easily go through 2mm aluminium.
As with ariel, the one on my KTM is maybe 6mm and a stronger alloy.

Further, you want a bash plate to be decently tough, so I think it needs to be properly welded really - can see a brazed one just falling off.

If you are stuck with 2mm sheet aluminium, then I'd probably just cut some more (seeing that it's cheap and easy to cut) and rivet it. That'll probably be as strong as the rest - ie not very at all.

I made a fairing out of 1.6mm sheet aluminium and it just about managed not to dent from fly impacts at speed .

[stinkwheel]

The lumiweld is stronger than the parent metal if done properly.

That guy who makes the inline 5 kawasaki 2-strokes joins the bandsawed crankcases from his two KH250s together using lumiweld.

As has been said, takes a bit of practice though. I found it was best to set a blowlamp on the bench to heat up the whole area you are soldering and use one of those micro-blowlamps to heat the exact bit you're working on.

Practice on scrap first. The difference in temperature between just right for soldering and Dahli-esque runny metal is quite small.

I managed to solder two red-bull cans together (edge to edge) using it. Proof that it isn't horrifically difficult because I am truly rubbish at soldering.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[temeluchus]

I have a pal who has several reuined threads on the crankcase of his Dnepr, he used HTS2000 rods, drilled the holdes oversize and filled them with the HTS, redrilled them and tapped the holes.

Worked very well, the threads are certainly better than original. One of the threads was for a cylinder stud so is under a fair amount of torque.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Drake]

mate where abouts are you?, if you can get to west yorkshire my dad does alot of aluminiumwork nd could nock oneup peice of cake
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[satelliteone]

https://technoweld-fusion.com/Int/TW_En/demo/demo.html

same stuff as lumiweld.. i think..