How do you protect/clean your bike against rust?

[spetom]

This is not a thread for those who do not give their bikes any love at all.

A question for all. How do you go about cleaning and protecting your bikes against rust and general weathering, especially in the coming winter months? The areas of protection loosely being.

1) Engine block
2) Exhaust
3) Chrome parts
4) Other metal parts (Wheel spokes)
5) Other metal painted/coated parts (e.g. Swing arm)
6) Plastic fairings

I usually just wash with fairy liquid, then water and then rub a load of ACF 50 everywhere, (pretty basic really).

Only trouble is when I put ACF 50 on the engine block and exhaust, when the engine starts up it smokes bad which I can't see being healthy for it at all.

How does everyone here do it?

[MinhDinh]

I have just bought acf 50 for the first time. It smoked away in the morning but I assume it still protects the bike since everyone else only uses it once.
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Hit the G spot.

[swiftb]

Fairy liquid? Doesnt it contain salt? Ive always been under the impression regular washing of a car/bike with washing up liquid is a bad idea - seems most others I know think that too. Id reccomend changing to some proper car/bike shampoo as a first ..

[Rob W]

You should've made a poll with an 'I don't' option.

I would have voted.
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'23 XSR900

[L4Isoside]

It's something I'm now looking at (should have last year but oh well)

I'd like to know of an effective way of getting rust off down pipes am similar areas?

I'm going to be cleaning the bike a lot more often (maybe every time I use it, because I wont be using it that much this year/winter) or at minimum a hose down.

Was also looking at that "all year biker" company but they are not near me

Going to get me some ACF as well.

[dragstaar]

The ACF50 will smoke from the heat. This is is perfectly normal. It will, however, stop quite soon. the test to see if your ACF50 is doing what it should do, it to look at the water. if it beaded, then great! there is a shield between the water and your bike, and the water should just run off, but if it doesnt then you'll need to re-apply.

[dragstaar]

Thought I'd add this too. It states that it will smoke, just re-apply as necessary https://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

Ride it at +130mph


Pat
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[tommybhoy]

https://www.allyearbiker.co.uk/Halo_Smart_Clean.html
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Current bike..Honda VFR 800 Vtec
A billion seconds ago it was 1959.

[F3NiNjA]

I use Scottoiler fs365

[Kal]

[L4Isoside]

[Im-a-Ridah]

ferric chloride

[Gone]

[Paxovasa]

I leave mine dirty

I don't know if it works, as I can't see what it is like underneath. But I would like to think it is in pristine condition
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Suzuki GSF600 K3 (in the fastest colour, black).

[Gone]

[spetom]

[BorderHooner]

Dude - if you want to ride your bike all winter - you need to cover the bike (except brake discs and callipers, seat, pegs, grips, tyres - obviously) in ACF-50 or similar product.

Wash the bike often with warm water and mild soap so you don't wash the oils/silicones/whatever off the bike. Clean the callipers often so they don't crud up - I would do this once a month - especially if salt grit has been spread on the road. It takes 2 minutes to release a calliper - 30 seconds to removed the pads - 2 bolts normally, spray with a can of calliper cleaner and get a tooth brush in there.

If you ride in the salt - wash the bike before you put it away every single time and rinse the callipers off thoroughly turning the wheels and applying and releasing the brake - otherwise you'll have shit brakes in the spring and they'll need stripping and rebuilding.

You need some of these https://www.bellbrush.com/white-nonabrasive-scouring-pads-p-1669.html you can buy them in tescos/asda etc etc - these pads are for taking oxidation off parts such as spokes, nuts, bolt heads, engine casing etc.

You will need tooth brushes and/or non scratch pipe cleaners for hard to reach areas - these are great https://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=141373&Referrer=froogle - just watch you don't scratch the bike parts as the bristles are on a metal wire.

If you keep the bike clean, and protected it won't oxidise - if you ride it all week and leave crud on it it will furr up.
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Benelli. Happy as a pig in cacky.

[spetom]

I've got a waterjet.

I think that would be the most efficient way to clean and with no solvents.

Is it as simple as just rubbing ACF 50 everywhere? That's what I've been doing to date.

However I have heard of people putting other protective substances on their engines and exhausts which last all winter, maybe 2 applications. Just forget the names.

On another note there is also ACF 50 Corosion Block Grease, never used it:

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ACF-50-CORROSION-BLOCK-GREASE-454g-TUB-AND-57g-TUBE-/120630709467?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c16268cdb

What is it's purpose? Does it replace copper crease? So axles, chains, sprockets etc.?

[BorderHooner]

No mate thats just grease. I don't think you want to grease the bike. It's for moving parts.

Waterjet as in pressure washer? yeah sure - but not a direct jet as it gets into electrics, drives out oils and silicones and can wash grease out of head stock, rear suspension linkages etc - keep the jet about 2ft - 18" away from bike.

ACF - get a paint brush, spray it into the can lid and brush it on - saves over spray and waste. ACF-50 aint cheap.
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Benelli. Happy as a pig in cacky.

[Clanger]

[BorderHooner]

WD40 imho is canny in an engine bay but exposed on a bike it gets washed off and there aint as many oils left residing after burn off.
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Benelli. Happy as a pig in cacky.

[spetom]

[steppen22]

with acf50, use a rubber glove and 'rub' into area, rather than a cloth /toothbrush - that's how to save overspray.
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