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| draigrwf |
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draigrwf
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Philious
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Damon
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 Posted: 18:31 - 04 Dec 2010  Post subject: |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 18:41 - 04 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Often there's a big circlip around the hub to stop them working out of thier own accord. Might not pull straight off.
Honda also liked to use metalastic bushes, press fitted into the wheel-hub, engaged by pins bolting direct to the sproket, rather than loose-bricks in a propper carrier, on thier little bikes. Dont know if any of the Copies have carried this over. If they have, then they are a nightmare to get out.
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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draigrwf
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Damon
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draigrwf
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
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| Posted: 19:57 - 04 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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| draigrwf wrote: | this is how my wheel looks like after taking off the sproket |
Your pic's not great, but looks like the old metalastic bush arrangement.
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/XX-Forum%20Posts/hub.jpg
The four holes that the sproket bolts slot into are the cush-drive rubbers.
A = is the inner sleeve
B = is the outser sleeve
C = is the bush-rubber.
Its all one part, the two sleeves bonded to the rubber when the rubber was moulded.
FKD! = an anomoly in your picture I suspect to be FKD rubber!
This is NOT repeat NOT an 'easy fix'.
Those bushes dont like to come out. They are 'shrunk' into the wheel.
(well not on normal bikes, built with normal quality control, least wise! Chinky-takaway, micght just fall out, if you tip the wheel upside down! would also be poor quality rubber thats seen them fail so early, normaly that would be a 20 year part, though learner numptyness plays a part too, and a slack chain doesn't help!)
They are also not 'cheap'. For a Honda CB125 Super-Dream, List price at Dave-Silver-Spares is about £10 a bush, ie: £40 a set, though I suspect there is more than a small degree of 'Catalogue Part' price inflation going on there.... they want £32 for a £3 fuecking flasher unit!
Your problem will be that you probably wont find any-one that lists the part for your bike, at any price; which means trying to find a suitable susbstitute from dimensions & description.
Which would be great, if you could get the part out intact and measure it up, and describe it..... but of its properlyt fitted, you'll probably have to cut it out.... carefully!
So, first things first, measre up the pin that goes in teh middle, and then the depth of the inner bush.
Then attack it with a drill through teh rubber, to remove the inner sleeve.
Outer will have to be split in four places by using a small traingular file to file slots into it, without going too far and hacking up the allow of the wheel.
You can then measure the diameter of the hole in te wheel. You can then measure the diameter of the sproket pin to get the internal and external diameters of teh bush, and the width of the outer sellev (how deep it is into the wheel) and the length of the inner sleeve, to get the basic dimensions of the bush, so that you can describe it calling around motorfactors and bush and nearing stickists looking for a suitable, and more reasonably priced substitute. (Should be about a fiver each, tops)
Once procured you just have the problem of fitting them........
Heat whole wheel, carefully, bushes in freezer, then carefully press them into the holes with a g-clamp and a socket bearing on the outer sleeve so you dont pull the inner out of the rubber!
A used wheel of e-bay, or even a brand new one, may not be much more expensive and certainly less hassle, but..... new, and decent european metalastics will make a big difference to your gear-changes, as will decent chain & sproket. You'll have to adjust them less too.
There are 'bodges', and the cheap fix is to go for a 'solid' drive, with no cush-drive bushes...... simply get the old bushes out, then turn a set of solid plugs with holes in them to fit the bush-holes....
Thats the nicest of the cheap-fixes, BTW.... getting down and dirty, some nylon rod can be filed into a satisfactory plug, hammered in and drilled to take the procket pins.... but I am NOT advocating such bodgery in any way shape or form, nor the more bodge-wrorthy alternative of simply filling the holes with epoxy resin, then sticking the sproket over the top and drilling out a hole to take the srprocket pin... such bodgery is not cheap, it isn't clever, and it wont last!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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draigrwf
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Teflon-Mike
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
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draigrwf
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
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| Posted: 13:39 - 05 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Mind you. I wouldn't have expected worn cush-rubbers to make the whole bike wobble.
They'd make the sprocket loose and wobbly but the back wheel itself should be held rigidly in place on its bearings
I'd be having a careful look at the wheel bearings. Being chinese, I'd also be checking the spacer is butting against the inner races properly.
Actually, being Chinese I'd also be checking there is no play in the swingarm bushes, that the swingarm itself isn't cracked, that the frame isn't cracked and that there isn't a broken engine mount.
Mate of mine had a Jailing trailie thing that was handling "funny". Back engine mount was broken and the frame was cracked through where the lug for the engine mount was welded on (which came first??).
Clean the bike up round the frame and swingarm area and have a good look round the frame using an inspection light, paying particular attention to where anything joins the frame and any welds. They have a habit (as did the Japanese at one point) of only welding the frame together where you can see.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Damon
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 130 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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