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Oil drain bolt threaded

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Auzfest
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 04 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Oil drain bolt threaded Reply with quote

Start off by saying hi guys,long time lurker here but not really introduced my self.After taking out drainbolt today i noticed some thread came out also the crush washer was crushed giving me the impression that the bolt was way overtightened,i refit jhe bolt without a washer not too far past finger tight and it seems pretty secure and no indication of leakage, is it likely the bolt will hold or is there anything else i can do to help secure it cheers?Auz.
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Mrs Vale46
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure but just an idea...... Could re-tap the hole and replace with a bigger wahser and bolt size?
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Auzfest
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it be a case of just forcing a slightly bigger bolt in or is it a more intricate job than that?
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Mrs Vale46
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No that would more than likely just bugger up the thread even more....
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-tap the thread to a fraction bigger than the existing one, then use a larger replacement bolt & washer

and if you were anywhere near me I'd be happy to re-tap it in exchange for a beer Wink

(...or you could try heat sensitive thread lock on the existing bolt?? but for me, that would really only be a temporary / emergency solution)
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Last edited by Dazbo666 on 22:02 - 06 Jan 2011; edited 2 times in total
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm, I did this a while back, due to being a lazy cheap bugger and not replacing the already-crushed crush washer. Sad

Tapping it out is on my list of things to do (honest) but in the end, I just replaced the crush washer with a rubber seal (cut up bicycle inner tube) so that the bolt could reach the good threads higher up, and it's been dry and secure. Your bike, your risk though.
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Auzfest
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dazbo666 wrote:
Re-tap the thread to a fraction bigger than the existing one, then use a larger replacement bolt & washer

and if you were anywhere near me I'd be happy to re-tap it in exchange for a beer Wink

(...or you could try heat sensitive thread lock on the existing bolt?? but for me, that would really only be a temporary / emergency solution)


Mate id give you a bloody case of beer not just a pint for such a kind deed.
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Auzfest
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

rob yarrr wrote:
what bike is it ?

could take the sump off and get it retapped


It's an 07 plate yamaha xt 125 ,how much would i expect to pay a mechanic for a job like this?
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dragstaar
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the bolt reach a stiff point half way in? I know it sounds silly, but are you sure it was definitely some thread that came out and not just the filings? Because my drain bolt is magnetic, and I made that mistake when i first saw the filings. It never had that much on it before, and i thought i'd threaded it.
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Auzfest
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Mmm, I did this a while back, due to being a lazy cheap bugger and not replacing the already-crushed crush washer. Sad

Tapping it out is on my list of things to do (honest) but in the end, I just replaced the crush washer with a rubber seal (cut up bicycle inner tube) so that the bolt could reach the good threads higher up, and it's been dry and secure. Your bike, your risk though.


Hmm,think i will take a similar approach to get me by for now, will bodge up a rubber washes and use some builders tape around the base of the nut(depending on the amount of thread taken off. To be fair i only want the bike untill spring and i get round to doing my test
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Auzfest
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 06 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

dragstaar wrote:
Does the bolt reach a stiff point half way in? I know it sounds silly, but are you sure it was definitely some thread that came out and not just the filings? Because my drain bolt is magnetic, and I made that mistake when i first saw the filings. It never had that much on it before, and i thought i'd threaded it.


Seemed still all along the bolt up untill the end of the bolt .could not screw in with fingers but went in with a persuasive wrench. There was definatly threading from either the screw or inner thread are a coil of aluminium wrapped sound the bolt. To be fair i shat myself when i realised id possibly bollocks my bike so i bodgeg it back in and set off home. Not had a chance for a thorough inspection as it was gettins dark
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lihp
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're not confident using a tap and die set to re-thread it, then I would let somebody else do it if possible. Where are you based? Tapping a thread can go pretty wrong too, best to practice on something scrap before having a first go on something you need Wink
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fiery tupp
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Auzfest wrote:
rob yarrr wrote:
what bike is it ?

could take the sump off and get it retapped


It's an 07 plate yamaha xt 125 ,how much would i expect to pay a mechanic for a job like this?



It is quite an easy job really , especially as the drain plug is horizontal ,I beleive its the same as engine as the YBR & it can easily be done in situ , with the bike leant over , like as described before , just re'tap, one size up. The sump guard may need removing ? 3 bolts .


Last edited by fiery tupp on 13:42 - 07 Jan 2011; edited 1 time in total
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Souleh
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reverse tap it and stick a bolt on then ratchet off?
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

never tap a sump with it still attached to the engine
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Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Souleh
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just the bolt I meant
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lihp
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PostPosted: 04:11 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
never tap a sump with it still attached to the engine


Thumbs Up

You don't want to leave any swarf in the sump!
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Auzfest
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PostPosted: 10:35 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. It's snowing again. Looks like the bike is gonna have to wait.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Auzfest wrote:
Well. It's snowing again. Looks like the bike is gonna have to wait.


Perfect opportunity to get on with it.


Get the sump off, take that to a garage or a engineering place and get it tapped to a larger thread size, then buy a larger sump plug and some crush washers.

You might want to consider getting a torque wrench too to avoid any future thread stripping Thumbs Up .
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
never tap a sump with it still attached to the engine


Oh, pfft, it's just like tapping the wife. In, out, in, out, shake it all about, wash the crap off.
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fiery tupp
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't just take the sump off , as the drain hole is in the crankcase Neutral
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

rusty sprocket wrote:
You can't just take the sump off , as the drain hole is in the crankcase Neutral



Ah.... that sucks.
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stutterin' sam
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 07 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
never tap a sump with it still attached to the engine


Oh, pfft, it's just like tapping the wife. In, out, in, out, shake it all about, wash the crap off.


Smear the tap thickly with heavy grease before use, the grease will trap the swarf and enable it to be removed with the tap. Have done this many times over the years without any problems.
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