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GS125 Head...adjusting valves

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P.addy
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: GS125 Head...adjusting valves Reply with quote

I have got my GX125 running Thumbs Up All I need to do is adjust the valves...ive heard quieter tractors Laughing

How do you adjust these ones? It looks like a very odd way of doing it...the cylinder head has the valves but the actual top cover has the rockers..

How on earth do you adjust them.
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serlant
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 06 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like bucket and shim? if thats the case measure all the clearances and compare, then get thinner or thicker shims depending on wether its over or under spec, and chances are you can swap a few around to get them in spec and not need to buy so many.
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)
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bacon
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Re: GS125 Head...adjusting valves Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
I have got my GX125 running Thumbs Up All I need to do is adjust the valves...ive heard quieter tractors Laughing

How do you adjust these ones? It looks like a very odd way of doing it...the cylinder head has the valves but the actual top cover has the rockers..

How on earth do you adjust them.


are they not the usual tappets which you adjust with nuts? I cant imagine them putting shim under buckets on a gs125?

edit: like this

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/mikejbry/beefcake/29122009446.jpg
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The Artist
Super Spammer



Joined: 06 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is just tappets and locknuts on this engine.

Spin engine over until the valve tappet is at its maximum gap and you can move with your finger. Then loosen the locknut and the tappet and slide a feeler gauge underneath and set to the correct distance. Tighten everything up, done.
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

YOu have to un-do the two big silver caps at front and rear then get a feeler gauge between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the tappet adjuster.

https://img35.imageshack.us/img35/8286/img0259jq.jpg

When you remove the cap you'll see a bolt and locknut. Turn the engine by hand until you have the tappet loose on the base circle of the cam (where the gap is biggest), loosen the locknut, fit the feeler gauge and wind in the bolt until you feel it dragging, tighten the locknut then CHECK THE GAP because they like to tighten up when you lock them off with the nut.

If you're worried jump on it and ride it up to mine and I'll gladly do it for you.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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P.addy
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have a go at doing it Smile

The problem with riding it over... It's too noisy to start up!
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Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's that noisy - check the top end is getting oil.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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fiery tupp
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 24 May 2010
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 29 Jan 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its the same as gz . Remove crankcase end cap - to turn over by hand , remove timing inspection cap ( on the top of flywheel cover) & valve caps . turn anticlockwise only a turn or two , find TDC on compression stroke / so both rocker arms are loose & adjust clearances . Neutral
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