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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
Joined: 13 Feb 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 15:38 - 13 Feb 2011 Post subject: Bike whiz wanted. |
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Hi
Whilst in my youth i took many Ford pinto engine to bits, and welded many a sill seam, but i know nothing of bikes.
However, 30 years on, i thought it might be fun to get a quad bike, since 4 wheels good 2 wheels bad ( ;p )
I bought a Shineway Quad bike, it was cheapish, like most chinese stuff, and it almost works properly :S
The problem is this:
Its a 300cc engine, because i thought i might need a bit of power to tow small trailer back and forth to the allotment. However, if you run the bike in 4th gear at above 35 mph for more than about half a mile, once it warmed up, its starts surging. Its fuel surge, not electrical. if you stop the bike and wait 2 or 3 mins, off its goes again no problem, for a while, then it will start surging again.
Now, 30 years ago I was a bit of a whiz on carbs, and I still have a working gas analyser. the card is set up properly, ive checked and tweaked it.
Only twice have i ever seen fuel surge, on a car - once was a Bedford 6cwt van with a Vauxhall engine and weber carb, that was caused by a vacuum leak on the gasket. The other time was a Sierra which surged when hot, that was caused by the fuel line being too close to the exhaust manifold and vapour bubbles forming in the float chamber.
Niether of these causes is causing this surging. Ive also discovered if you keep the speed below 20 mph, it doesn't occur.
The only conclusion i can draw now is that this bike comes in 4 sizes - 200cc, 250cc, 300c and 350cc all with the same carb on, and the carb is too small to deliver sufficient amounts of fuel to the larger engine sizes.
Maybe what i need to do is figure out how to put a better quality carb off a 350cc motor bike, such as a honda or a suziki, something that can def deliver fuel to that size engine.
Id be grateful for any input, ideas or comments about this, and possible solutions. |
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| cb1rocket |
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 cb1rocket World Chat Champion
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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
Joined: 13 Feb 2011 Karma :   
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| The Artist |
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 The Artist Super Spammer

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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
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| nightshaddow |
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 nightshaddow Nearly there...

Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Karma :    
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 Posted: 17:10 - 13 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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did you buy it new or second hand,
if you bopught it new check the fuel lines these chinese bikes have poor quality stuff on them,
if scond hand i would check coil and the conecters there too..  ____________________ "WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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| robocog |
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 robocog Traffic Copper
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Karma :   
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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
Joined: 13 Feb 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 00:12 - 14 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| robocog wrote: | Surging is more than likely a lean condition IMO
When you say you have set it up on a gas anaylser - we taking wideband lambda (looking at AFR)
OR
Gunsons type sniffer where your looking at HC's and CO2
Either way
/Some/ engines will happily run quite lean at idle or just off idle (to meet euro emissions and MOT requirements), but needs change with RPM /load not just being held at certain RPMs with no load
I know my DIY'd EFI'd lump in my kit car "wants" a slightly richer mix at certain cruise RPM's and low load than I was originally willing to give it
(I was aiming for a lean as possible idle through to cruise AFR, below stoich where possible)
Worked fine and dandy in cool flat conditions and I was rubbing my hands with glee thinking I had saved a packet on fuel for cruising to and from shows and gereral bimbling about and could perhaps start to be able to afford the siney shineys on offer when I got there (as long as I could keep my foot from stabbing the throttle pedal)
but on the first hot hot hot summers day out - as soon as the ECU took a bit of fuel away due to the air density algorthmn - and going slightly uphill it took to surging in an unpleasant sea sick inducing kind of way, added a couple % more fuel around the lean cruise bins and the issue hasn't re-appeared since
(though still waiting for an equivalently hot day to prove I have truly fixed it)
Has the engine got an air recirculation doo hickey?
Personally I'd just richen it up a tad via whatever you twiddled to get it spot on and see it fixes its surging
Do they check emissions on it at MOT time?
If not err or the rich side, as long as its not plug fouling it'll be reet
I suppose it depends where in the throttle range/rpm% its happening - which would help point to what part of the carb needs adjusting (assuming a CV jobbie)
(idle screw/needle height and profile / fuel float height or main jet..or a combination)
Also if its bitterly cold where you are- could be borderline icing causing a slightly lean mix?
(though my CV's used to spit and pop like an angry camel when they iced up and I'd get plain old missfires rather than surging...that was on a Pinto...shame they are so heavy, and it has to be said- they will tolerate a much wider variety of fuel mixtures unlike a more modern alloy tight tolerance lump as I found out when I first tinkered with megasquirt before going alloy 16v in the kit car)
Also agree on the points raised so far ref fuel lines/breathers
(also check its not a warped disk making it feel like engine surge..next time it does it clutch in and roll....LOL)
Regards
Rob |
Some good points, thanks:
1. it was set up on a a Gunsons sniffer.
2. I thought of the icing up problem as well, and in fact the three mornings its done it were all very cold.
3. Its def fuel surge, i can dip the clutch and you have to work the throttle like mad to keep it from stalling.
4. Yes, float height is another possibility. I thought id got it right tho
So, i think ill check a) air breather to fuel tank b) float height and c) make the mixture a bit richer. And see if i can make it do it on a really cold morning still.
Thanks for all the input, i dont know anyone else now where i live, or amongst my friends who are still around, who knows one end of a con rod from another :S |
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| cb1rocket |
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 cb1rocket World Chat Champion
Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:34 - 14 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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As you said do the tank breather first to rule that out. I'm betting money on it, hehe  |
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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
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| finpos |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
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| Howling TerrorOutOfOffice |
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 Howling TerrorOutOfOffice Super Spammer

Joined: 05 Dec 2008 Karma :    
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 Posted: 18:03 - 14 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Not had to strip my fuel tank, but believe the reserve setting draws fuel from the bottom of the tank and ON draws fuel from a few inches up.
[edit] stand to be corrected on this:
Suspect that because a motorcycle has a small tank, any buildup of water etc would be concentrated, and more likely to effect the carbs/FI. So Reserve in my book should be filling up time. Or keep your tank spotless by draining and replace filters as per spec. Often an overlooked job.  ____________________ Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project |
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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
Joined: 13 Feb 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 21:00 - 16 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the replies, I got some feedback for you all.
I found i could reproduce the surging by running at 35 mph+ and opening the choke. This caused the mixture to weaken and you could feel the onset of surging. if you then throttle back to 25 mph and close the choke a little to enrich the mixture, the surging dies away. It probably surges because its a single cylinder engine, and the block side vacuum isnt constant, as it is in a multi cylinder 4 stroke engine.
So its to do with the air/fuel ratio and the volume of air being sucked in, and the temperature of the air.
I think the problem is the carb is too small to cope with an engine that large. The bike comes in 50, 200, 250, 300 and 350cc sizes, and ill bet the same carburetor is used on all of them. It prolly works fine on a 200cc, but the 350cc just sucks too hard.
The solution in the end is to find a carb off a 350cc bike and adapt it . For the moment ill keep the speed down below 30 mph, and i can use the choke to vary the mixture.
Anyone got any suggestions for a better carb that might work, preferably something we've heard of, like weber or zenith. |
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| cb1rocket |
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 cb1rocket World Chat Champion
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| MidLifeCrisis |
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 MidLifeCrisis L Plate Warrior
Joined: 13 Feb 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 09:41 - 17 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| cb1rocket wrote: | You can have a small carb or big carb regardless of engine size.
If they were all sold with the same carb, they would be set up to suit. No manufacture would just bang on a carb and hope for the best. They fitted it cos they know it works.
As you mentioned, the fuel mixture is weak and some choke is needed to enrichen it.
Getting a bigger carb would just be more headache - you have still got to set it up to suit and fit the correct jet. Zenith and Weber are car carbs, which I have little knowledge of and more likely will not fit without major modifications. Mikuni and Keihn are common OEM makes of bike carbs
I would go a for a bigger main jet and go maybe 2.5 - 5 up from stock. Reason being this is happening in the far end of throttle, and above 25 - 30 mph where the quad is nearing peak power output but the mixture is just wrong.
Can be sorted. Use would need to use the sniffer while dynoing the quad at the same time. Your get a better picture that way, than doing a stationary idle run. |
Theres an upper limit to the air volume that can be sucked through a specific size venturi. The air speeds up as it goes through, creating a vacuum, but is limited by the fact that as the pressure drops, the moisture condenses out (icing up the carb), and if that doesnt occur eventually the air can go supersonic, and a shock wave wave appears near the lower edge of the narrowest part, this can cause the laminar flow through the venturi to start to break up into turbulent flow, and this ruins the mixture behavior. The only solution in this case is a carb with a larger venturi. I believe this is what's happening here - at high revs the input through the venturi is exceeding its ability to maintain laminar flow, and its breaking up into chaotic pulsing, aggravated by the fact the vacuum on the block side pulses anyway, being a large single cylinder
I think this carb, or something similar,
https://www.petrolscooter.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/5838/s/carburettor-250cc-kazuma/category/163/
might do the biz, as its designed for the airflow of a 250cc engine, and this bike is 292, easily within its range.
Ill order one and we'll prove or disprove the argument the practical way  |
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 cb1rocket World Chat Champion
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| cb1rocket |
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 cb1rocket World Chat Champion
Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 23:25 - 18 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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hope your getting some luck, but a guide on carb tuning which I find is an essential read from another member
| Odie wrote: | Follow steps in order....First, dial in:
1. Top end (full throttle / 7.5k to redline - Best Main Jet be selected before starting step 2!
Select Best Main Jet
To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the highest top speed / pulls hardest at high rpm.
If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first - before moving on to the other tuning ranges.
If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when fully warmed up, the main jet is too small.
In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes of hard use!
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.
2. Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k)
Select best needle clip position
To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, after you have already selected the best main jet,
If the engine pulls better on a full throttle roll-on starting at <3k, when cool but soft when at full operating temperature, it is too rich in the midrange and the needle should be lowered.
If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed up, the needle height is probably properly set.
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing needle clip positions - you still need to be using the clip position that produces the best full throttle / 5k-7k power in conjunction with the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise next.
3. Low end (full throttle / 2k-3k)
Float height (AKA fuel level & how to..)
To get best low-end power, set float height (fuel level) so that the engine will accept full throttle, without missing or stumbling, in 2nd gear from 2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum.
Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.
If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.
If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level.
Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.
REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float setting.
Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high,, the engine may foul plugs on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle operation. Adjust Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.
Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full throttle/low rpm and, also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm.
Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating temperature, will usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm. Check out and RESET all: Suzuki (all), Yamaha (all) and Kawasaki (if low speed problems occur). Needless to say, FUEL LEVEL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!
If there are low-end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than 1.5mm from our initial settings, also check for needle wear and needle jet (part of the emulsion tube). See Worn Needle and Worn Needle Jet diagram. It is VERY common for the brass needle jets (in the top of the "emulsion tube") in 36mm, 38mm and 40mm Mikuni CV carbs to wear out in as little as 5,000 miles. Check them for "oblong" wear - the needle jet orifice starts out round! Factory Pro produces stock replacement needle jets / emulsion tubes for 36mm and 38mm Mikuni carbs.
4. Idle and low rpm cruise
Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit.
Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 309 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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