Ducati Monster M600 **Picture Heavy**

[GeneralXcepti...]

I bought this Monster 600 on eBay in September 2010 as a winter project. I've already completed the work that I want to do on the bike, so this is more of a story than a typical 'show and tell' interactive project but I thought I'd share it here anyway

Anyhoo, this Duke was sold for spares or repairs because it didn't run and needed some TLC. Engine wise the seller said that the valve guides had worn sufficiently to prevent it starting. No idea which guides or which head was affected or if they were all buggered. Time would tell.

I was so keen on actually fixing the bike I forgot to take pics at certain key stages :oops Anyway, this is what it looked like when I picked it up.

https://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9893/b2cgnqcwkkgrhqeokikerfw.jpg https://img163.imageshack.us/img163/6136/b2cfwwb2kkgrhqyokm8e5c5.jpg https://img847.imageshack.us/img847/9056/b2cgshgwkkgrhquoknie6rp.jpg

There's no HT leads connected in those pics because they were in a carrier bag along with the CDI's, coils and the battery. No wonder it wasn't starting

Anyway, we pushed it up a makeshift ramp, into the back of my brothers van along with all the tools and other shit in there and headed home wondering what the hell I'd bought and yet somehow also pleased that I'd bought myself a Duke. Doesn't look too bad in this pic.

https://img6.imageshack.us/img6/135/img0139ga.jpg

Got it home and after giving it a good wash I made a note of stuff I'd noticed:

Right hand hanger was split, presumably from dropping it or doing too many stand up wheelies

https://img534.imageshack.us/img534/1479/img0144bh.jpg

Surface corrosion and crap over everthing

https://img828.imageshack.us/img828/6883/img0162qa.jpg https://img826.imageshack.us/img826/4849/img0206qt.jpg https://img13.imageshack.us/img13/5725/img0154ya.jpg

Petrol tank damage (no dents thankfully) with what looked like clear coat failure, decals knackered, deep scratches, paint chips and brake fluid damage right underneath the clutch res

https://img24.imageshack.us/img24/790/img0591s.jpg https://img196.imageshack.us/img196/274/img0592b.jpg https://img651.imageshack.us/img651/314/img0600j.jpg

Some of the wiring had been routed badly around the headstock and had worn through exposing the bare wires beneath

https://img41.imageshack.us/img41/5792/img0228q.jpg

Plus other bits and pieces such as the clutch master cylinder was leaking, forks seals were shot and the stanchions would require re-chroming - oh and the rear tyre was the wrong profile and both tyres had punctures .

So that's quite a bit to be getting on with, but I wanted a proper project to get my teeth into and this was perfect from that point of view.

Part 2 coming up soon...

[Frost]

So far not so bad. Consumables have been neglected as is common with bikes that have been ridden without money being spent on them. Thing needs a fucking good scrubbing and a bit of paint so far.
I hope the engine wasn't as bad on the inside as the out or that will have cost you a fortune

[mibman2003]

How much did you pay for it mate? Seems like a fair amount of work needs doing to it....I'm restoring a bike too, and there's times when I have nearly started crying due to the amount of blood, sweat and tears I've lost to it! Good luck anyway...
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[GeneralXcepti...]

[Gazdaman]

I'd love a 600 monster as a project. That one looks really rough, but doesn't look like it needs too much work at least. Bit of spit, polish, paint and powder coat and it'll be mint again.

Gaz

[Frost]

I always look at projects and think: All it needs is a really good clean and polish, repaint this and that, and it's almost done.
But then when i get hold of something so filthy i usually never know where to start and end up putting off the cleaning, or doing a tiny bit then giving up

[garth]

I like my 600 monster. They make quite a good road bike.
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[GeneralXcepti...]

Right, part 2...

I stripped the bike down which was a bit more complicated that normal because the swinging arm pivots off the back of the engine and not the frame. So you can't just drop the engine out and leave a rolling frame. Bugger. I get there in the end and I'm left with boxes of bits, an engine, swinging arm and with the front end left as it is for now.

https://img813.imageshack.us/img813/8492/img0232o.jpg

Whilst undoing the suspension hoop that connects the swinging arm to the suspension arm (shown on the pic above sitting net to some blue towel) I noticed that the rose joint was actually broken! My cheapo vernier being put to work again.

https://img864.imageshack.us/img864/796/img0238qz.jpg

A new set of rose joints were added to the shopping list.

I continued to strip the remaining parts off the frame and swinging arm so that I could send them off for powder coating but before I could send the stuff off I needed to get that split hanger sorted out. Knowing my limitations, I paid a local welder a few quid to weld it up for me.

https://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3831/img0304r.jpg

Job's a good 'en and I tidied the weld up later.

Next were the engine cases. Both engine cases have inspection glasses in them so you can see the timing marks from one and oil level from the other. These had to come out before the cases could be powder coated so I ordered a couple more inspection glasses from a Ducati dealer (knowing full well I'd break the glass or bugger up the seal on them during removal). I removed the stator, timing glass and then tapped the bearing out of the alternator case.

https://img689.imageshack.us/img689/5749/img0343lr.jpg https://img62.imageshack.us/img62/7607/img0345q.jpg

On the clutch case I had a bit more fun because there was an oil seal that took ages to get out (top left of pic) and I had to use my compressor to force the slave piston out.

https://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4606/img0340xv.jpg

I sent the frame, swinging arm, suspension hoop, both hangers, top yoke, both engine cases, both timing belt covers, valve inspection covers and other misc items off to the powder coaters and turned my attention to the forks...

[CHR15]

MOAR!
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Ste: I'm not entirely sure how you'd go about verbally abusing someone with a potato but I'm sure it's possible.

[Gazdaman]

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

Phew..Thought rattle cans were coming out.
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[GeneralXcepti...]

First off, a sneak peak of what the frame looks like once it comes back from the powder coaters

https://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8227/img0348k.jpg

Enough of that for now and back on subject, forks.

The early M600's were fitted with Marzocchi non adjustable forks. A look at the haynes book of twisted lies reveals that Ducati changes the forks between Showa and Marzocchi a number of times, sometimes just for one year! So if you have an M750 from 1998 it might have Showa's or you might have something else. Apparently, they threw whatever they had in stock on the bikes

Mine had a set of Marzocchi's on it. They looked like they'd been on there for 16 years too. The chrome was fubar and needed work and the seals had gone as a result. Although, the forums are full of people saying that theirs still leak after re-chroming and fitting OEM seals. Most suggest getting a set of Showa's of an M900 from the same sort of era and they fit no problem. Same spacing for the caliper and the axle. So that's what I did.

I found someone selling some M900 Showa forks and he let me have them cheap enough because the seals had started to go, but the chrome was in great condition. I was looking at hundreds to get mine re-chromed so this was a bargain. Also, the M900 Showa's have mounting places for a 2nd caliper if I ever wanted to go down that path.

Started to take the 'new' forks apart. I've never rebuilt a USD fork before so this was going to be interesting. Turns out to be fairly straight forward (just like most things if you RTFM). First thing I notice is that one of the forks is a real bitch to pull apart. Anyone will tell you to use a slide hammer action to pull the outer bush out using the inner bush. This worked on one fork but the other one took a while to do. Turns out that the bushes are in a bad state

https://img859.imageshack.us/img859/8122/img0515h.jpg

The slide action wasn't working because the teflon coating was coming off and allowing the inner to pass inside the outer and jamming the lot up. Balls.

After sending back one set of bushes because they were 0.5mm too big in diameter (damn you Showa and your model changes) I found a place that did stock the correct diameter bushes. Not cheap, but necessary.

Side by side comparison of old vs. new showing how the copper and teflon had worn

https://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6976/img0516ef.jpg

I also bought some new seals and using some protection (ahem a freezer bag) to stop the seals from being damaged by the stanchion edges fitted the new seals

https://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6194/img0517w.jpg

Oh and some lube of course

https://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5082/img0518rc.jpg

I'm all for improved ride quality due to the proper application of lube!

Put the forks back together, tried to work out what weight fork oil I should put in the things due to all the different fork configurations over the years with the Monster. In the end I went with 10w. Measured it with the fork compressed to ensure there was the right amount and then put the forks to one side for fitting at a later date. First job completed

[GeneralXcepti...]

Dropped the engine on the bench and took the heads off to see what the valve guides were like.
https://img808.imageshack.us/img808/720/img0289l.jpg

At this point I have to admit to either losing the pics I took of the heads in pieces or not taking any at all. I can't remember. Gutted, but we move on. I checked for play in the valves and there was only the exhaust valve that had any sort of play but it was a proper tiny amount and nothing to cause any problems . The exhaust valve guides always wear first due to the valve being open when all hell breaks lose in the chamber.

https://img852.imageshack.us/img852/1848/valvel.jpg

I checked the valve clearances and they were out by quite a lot. See this diagram:

https://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1243/valvediagram.gif (image borrowed from https://www.ducatisuite.com/valves.html)

The closing valve shim (B) was too big and was ever-so gently ripping the steel valve through the aluminium head . The opening valve shim (A) was too small and wasn't opening the valve enough. I ordered the correct size opening shims and sanded the closing shim down until there wasn't any interference with the cam (it's easy to check, just slide the arm (1) out of the way and the cam should spin with zero load on it because the valve is already closed). I had to do this with 2 of the valves, I ended up ordering 2 opening shims, the others were in spec.

With the heads back into spec I de-coked them as good as I could and painted them silver. I took the cylinders off too to check that they were ok and there was no damage and the piston rings were all there and still in one piece . The cylinders also had a lick of paint whilst they were off the engine.

Fixing the valve clearances would hopefully go some way to fixing the starting / rough idle issues that this bike had.

[GeneralXcepti...]

I got the bits a pieces back from the powder coaters. This is the engine with the covers just pressed in place so see what it'd look like.
https://img62.imageshack.us/img62/9200/img0402v.jpg

More shiny stuff
https://img808.imageshack.us/img808/2779/img0346j.jpg https://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6313/img0350zj.jpg

So, I started putting the suspension and frame back together, on the dining room table of course
https://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1092/img0354copy.jpg

I then brought the whole lot together and surprised myself by not falling for the "how do you get the chain on once the suspension hoop is on" trick that Ducati had left for me
https://img64.imageshack.us/img64/880/img0401vk.jpg

Refitted the carbs, partially fitted the loom and starting putting in the fuel lines along with the pump

https://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7936/img0406f.jpg https://img856.imageshack.us/img856/4695/img0407zy.jpg

So far so good, I now had a rolling chassis so it was time to start working on the tank.

[serlant]

You sir, are win, and have saved that bike, Excellent job so far.
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)

[fitzy_bike]

Looking forward to seeing the final result! Cracking bike.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Looking good chief.
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[jack_p92]

such a nice bike!! cant believe it was only £500 odd.

need more updates
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DT125 Supermoto

[Redoko]

Fap fap fap.
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[B10Hazard]

Can i asked how much you paid for it?
Doing a wicked job
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[jack_p92]

[GeneralXcepti...]

Thanks for the kind comments

The tank need a bit of work. It wasn't dented but there were deep scratches all over it, some bits where brake fluid had eaten its way through and the decals had been damaged so I figured I'd paint it. I've never painted anything properly before but I've got a compressor so I figured I'd have a go and bought myself a paint gun. I bought the best I could afford which (ahem) wasn't much!

Awesome No-Name 'professional' Paint / clear gun HVLP 1.4 tip:
https://img232.imageshack.us/img232/2258/paintgun.jpg
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270654417822
I paid £18 + del

I also got one of those cheapo water filter things that go on the end to stop water getting into the paint. Most say that they don't work but mine did, or maybe I got away with it?

I couldn't paint the tank until it was stripped down so I went on my favourite auction site again and bought one of these dual action air sanders for around £23 delivered and also bought a load of discs ranging in grades from 320 up to 1500:
https://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8057/airsander.jpg

The tank didn't stand a chance against such awesome chinese knockoff kit combined with 320 grit paper

Going...
https://img835.imageshack.us/img835/1306/img0601dh.jpg

Going...
https://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5668/img0604r.jpg

Gone!
https://img861.imageshack.us/img861/8171/img0605c.jpg

It took only 40 minutes to get the tank stripped enough for the next stage. Awesome kit but definitely wear a dust mask when using it.

I just grabbed some rattle can high build primer (hence the dayglow colour) to check for high / low spots. Missed a bit there mate...
https://img828.imageshack.us/img828/9071/img0606lowlevelssmall.jpg

Flatted it down and then used some grey primer from a rattle can to check there were no high / low spots...
https://img269.imageshack.us/img269/774/img0625h.jpg

...and it's about this point that I realised that I can't paint over this stuff with the kinda paint that goes into a spray gun because the thinners in it will eat this paint alive DOH! I should have read that painting forum a bit more and I could have saved myself some pain.

So, instead of stripping the whole lot off, I bought myself one of these:

Primer gun 1.8 tip:
https://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9175/primergun.jpg
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230474778559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I paid £15 + del

I also bought some sealer / primer which I think is alcohol based which basically is ok to paint over anything to give a safe surface for the heavy solvents that come along later.

My first compressor based painting experiment went ok but this sealer stuff left the tank looking brown! Oh well, it's only a primer coat afterall.

https://img716.imageshack.us/img716/3955/img0660w.jpg

With the idea in my head that anything that I did to this tank (paint wise) could be fixed with some sand paper and time (both I had plenty of) I decided that for my first proper paint job with my awesome cheapo kit in my Dad's garage that had no lighting I'd attempt a multi stage candy red. What could possibly go wrong?

[CJA]

Excellent work there, can't get enough of these kind of threads

[CHR15]

[waffles]