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| big.bee.time |
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 big.bee.time Nova Slayer

Joined: 17 May 2007 Karma :     
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| hmmmnz |
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 hmmmnz Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :   
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 Posted: 03:04 - 05 May 2011 Post subject: |
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| Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :   
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 Posted: 05:38 - 05 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Assuming they are conventional forks, you should get away with not using the special tool. Before taking the fork apart, try just undoing the bottom bolt with an allen key at the bottom of the fork. The pressure of the fork spring acting on it should be enough to stop it rotating and let you undo the bolt.
The same goes for putting it back together. You should be able to get it done up tight enough to not leak when you assemble the fork and fill with oil, then you can tighten it up fully once the fork is fully assembled with the top cap back on.
If you do need a special tool, it is a long handle with essentially a nut on the end; the bottom bolt is shaped like a socket and the nut fits into it. There are a number of bodges, such as welding a correct size nut onto a rod and sticking that in there. I don't know the nut size, but google might find it, 17mm rings a bell. You can also try a wooden broom handle with the end slightly shaved off to make a slight taper that can be shoved into the bolt to stop it spinning.
Do not use threadlock on reassembly, but do use a new washer. I have never had one leak, you have a small hole with a bolt through it and a copper washer behind that, then the axle going through the hole above it to stop the bolt working loose and allowing leakage. More secure than a usual sump plug.
If you can't get it undone, see what Suzuki charge for the tool. Last time I checked it was about £15, I borrowed one from an owners club years ago for my VX800, so an owners club is another option to borrow one. |
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| big.bee.time |
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 big.bee.time Nova Slayer

Joined: 17 May 2007 Karma :     
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 Posted: 12:58 - 05 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Cheers that helps a good bit a might just try get hold of the tool if you can buy them     |
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| stirlinggaz |
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 stirlinggaz World Chat Champion

Joined: 22 Jul 2007 Karma :    
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| Bezzer |
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 Bezzer World Chat Champion
Joined: 14 Apr 2005 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:16 - 05 May 2011 Post subject: |
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This is the Suzuki tool
https://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/mickcbr1100/tools/ForkTool.jpg
The T bar is just a long 3/8ths" square drive that fits to it so you don't need that you can use a few 3/8ths" extension bars...but you do need about 2 feets worth.
It locates in a round hole at the bottom of the damper tube, you can get a bit of bar and shape it with an angle grinder to a point and use that, some people try broom handles but they are too thick to go right down the damper and just grip the top of the tube which usually isn't enough.
The Suzuki tool (just the pictured bit) costs around £20
Part No 09940-34561 for some reason it's just called "Attachment D"
The best advice has already been given ie LOOSEN THE ALLEN BOLTS BEFORE YOU TAKE THE FORKS APART the pressure usually holds everything firm.
edit- told a lie just checked and it costs £14.61 at the moment from Robinsons Foundry, but that's before you add postage etc ____________________ I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 276 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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