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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: New Shed / Workshop Reply with quote

Finally I'm the proud owner of my own shed. It's a 6'6" deep, 8' wide pent shed.

It also has an extension of 4'x4' on one side, making it a L shape. 210 square foot of wall space / 68 ft floor space, if I've worked that out right.

What I need:

Arrow Advice on insulation. I'm planing (haven't worked out the cost yet!) on using 25mm celotex as i've just used this to line a pond. I can only get 100mm loft insulation and I would have to compress this down to 40mm to fit in batons. I'd also need some sort of membrane with loft insulation?

Arrow Advice on lining? Ply?

Arrow Storage solutions ?

Arrow Power? Electrician will be doing it, but what have YOU got power wise that is handy?

Arrow Security?

Thanks in advance.

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https://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/supercitybity/random/DSC02268.jpg
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Nope.
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

With regards to insulation, Im intending to line my garage with this polystyrene sheet that has foil sides. It comes in various thicknesses and im sure you'll be able to find some to suit. The good thing is you can cut it with a saw down to whatever size you want and its about £6 for a 2M X 2M sheet. Im then going to cover the insulation with Plaster board and paint it. Hopefully that should last a while.

For electricity, we have our shed on a spur that has an RCD in line with it. The cable is armoured and runs in a waterproof armoured rubber jacket under the patio, under the garden and then into the shed. The garage is on a separate ring main though.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a fair size shed.
The celotex will work just fine for insulation and looks like it will fit in the batons. Don't forget to do the roofspace or you'll bake in summer and freeze in winter.

I would line the inside walls with plasterboard on top of the celotex since it thin, easy to install, will add fireproofing and it makes the inside very light and easy to maintain. Best of all it's cheap. The only downside is you can't hang things off it easily, but you can glue a parts rack to it or screw into the batons behind (if you remember to mark them out before covering them).

Plywood would be more secure and add structural rigidity, but smells when it gets hot, doesn't insulate well at all and doesn't reflect light as well either even when painted. Also, it's expensive.
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AndyB1989
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

+ 1 for insulating with polysyrene you can get it in varioius thicknesses and i think one of them is 40mm .. which wouldbe handy i wouldnt spend the extra money on the foil covered stuff just the cheapy stuff will make a massive difference did in my garage.

and also another vote for plasterboard but have a think about where you want to attatch anything heavy to the walls beforehand and put in some horizontal bracing in this area and maybe just cover that bit in ply so you can screw to it without fear . modern plasterboard fixing are very good but dont use them for anything with substantial weight
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Power is invaluable in a workshop.

I recently had power run to my garage right the way from the fusebox at the front of the house, out of the wall, under the garden, into the garage to a second fuse box, then a 6ft strip light and three sets of double socks for £200.

Which I must say is a bit of a bargain.

When you've got power, you'll use:

Light
Battery charger
Corded drill
Angle grinder
Welder (Maybe not so ideal in a wooden shed)
Heater in the winter
Compressor (if you get adventurous).

Power is what makes a shed a workshop.

Security will always be difficult on something like that, since any bolt is likely to be stronger than the material the building is made of. So I'd go for a big bright security light, and see if you can mount a ground anchor through the floor of the shed into the concrete or earth underneath. Then maybe a movement sensor alarm, or just a sensitive one on the bike, so any disturbance on that will set it off.

Gaz
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:


I recently had power run to my garage right the way from the fusebox at the front of the house, out of the wall, under the garden, into the garage to a second fuse box, then a 6ft strip light and three sets of double socks for £200.

Gaz


You got a bargain, I could have hardly done the job for £200 , doing it myself.
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heehaw
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PostPosted: 03:33 - 27 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A wee consumer unit like this would do the trick

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-sentry-4-way-rcd-garage-consumer-unit/33248

Unless your heating it I personally don't think insulation is worthwhile, its not going to keep moisture or cool out unless you have a heat source, good for keeping the heat out during the 2 days of summer, saying that wrapping rockwool in tin foil is an alternative.

Ply or sterling board lining is ideal.
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 04:36 - 27 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have a 12ft x 8ft brick built garage.
I fitted a fuse protected DIY power extension, connected to the house mains, some years ago... and I have 3 heavy duty double sockets (freebies sourced from work) inside the garage so that I don't have unneccessary power tool cables laying around the place.

I've considered adding insulation by fitting a plywood ceiling attached to the rafters, and filling the void with rockwool or similar. Our next door neighbour did theirs 2 years ago, so I was keeping an eye on their set-up to find out if there was any issue with condensation etc during the winter months.

With regards to storage I have a couple of workbenches with shelving below them, some home-modified tool racks on the walls, and at one point I have a scaffolding plank used as a high level heavy duty shelf for storage of power tools.
(My next project is going to be a storage rack or trolley for my two welders. I've sourced some surplus metal, so I just need to decide on the design).

Security : A full width, metal up-and-over garage door. The original handle and lock has been replaced with a better quality, more secure option, and the main and side doors are also dead bolted.

....oh and two hyperactive, exciteable, and very possessive dogs helps too Thumbs Up
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.....
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 27 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't help you with power and stuff but I recently bought a new shed and bumped up the security a bit - it wouldn't stop the determined scumbags but might make some of them move onto the next less protected shed.

I fitted coach bolts to the hinges - both parts of each hinge, on the shed and door, so the hinges can't simply be unscrewed and much harder to lever off. A decent hasp and clasp fitted to the door again fitted with coach bolts. A metal grill over the window plus a load of tools hanging there so if they try and lever it off it will make a racket. Then finally an alarm.

Like I said, it won't stop the most determined thief but it can slow them down and make a quiet entry difficult.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 27 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I did for security was have a p.i.r.-light fixed to the house pointing towards the shed.
I was at B&Q and they had an offer on home security stuff (old stock), so I bought a battery operated siren alarm.

Scrotes hate to be seen as well as heard

Worked for me Thumbs Up
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.....
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 27 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a floodlight on the house pointing at the shed door with a switch in the house. The plan is to hear the alarm, run downstairs with the baseball bat, turn the light on to bling them then batter the little scrotes.
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