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Wire Splicing OEM or Other

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Ringadingdoo
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Joined: 24 May 2011
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Wire Splicing OEM or Other Reply with quote

Im currently modifying a 2005 Triumph Scrambler and Im having a few issue with the loom. Im trying relocate everything under the custom seat which involves making a few changes (cutting out chunks) Triumph use 'Open Barrel splices' to splice their wires together, which I can source, but finding them and knowing the right size is proving a problem. I don't want to solder the wires, so thats out of the question.

So any other recommendations/alternatives?
Does anybody know about open barrel splices.

https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5531961972_da6c126808.jpg

https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2128/5755474715_a73d5be220.jpg

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make 'em. It's just a strip of copper/brass folded over and crimped. You'll have to buy the crimping too anyway, if you want to do it proper like. If I was doing it I'd knock up a tool and make the crimp.
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Ringadingdoo
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: DIY Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Make 'em. It's just a strip of copper/brass folded over and crimped. You'll have to buy the crimping too anyway, if you want to do it proper like. If I was doing it I'd knock up a tool and make the crimp.


No problem with investing in the right tools, I do have a crimping tool, but not one big enough for such a large splice. Maybe one used for crimping HT leads?. As for making them that certainly an option.
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sandman1976
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Joined: 08 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you could buy small cable cramps... Like the ones they use on stainless steel wire fencing, they cramp stuff together Smile

P.S That bike is AWESOME!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

My oppinion, borne of years of experience, is that those are a crap way of splicing motorcycle wiring.

I'll tell you exactly why.

They don't seal the insulation up against the wire. Any ingress of damp will track up between the insulation and the wire and rot it for several inches along its length. It also puts all the load on the copper wire. as the wiring bends and flexes during normal use, the copper will work-harden at the stress point just behind the crimp and could eventually break.

I would be using some sort of crimp which has two crimps. One which grips the wire and the second which grips the insulation and seals it down against the wire. I would consider any sleeve or shrink tube over the top of this to be for electrical insulation purposes.

At the most simple are the pre-insulated butt connectors:
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/images/bb.gif
When properly applied with a double crimp using a ratchet crimping tool, you can hang in excess of 16kg off one of those connectors as I proved using empirical methods in THIS THREAD (scroll down)
I am confident the terminal would break before the wire pulls out:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/dscn1019.jpg


There are also heatseal butt splices which crimp in the same way and are then heated so the adhesive backed insulation joins the wires:
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/images/bhs.gif

You said you don't want to solder but here is a soldering option which you don't have to solder. Inline solder splices. Shove the wires in each end. Heat with blowlamp. Solders, heatshrinks and adhesive seals all with one pass of a blowtorch.
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/images/bhss.gif

There are also non-insulated butt splices. This is essentially what is inside the insulated ones, double crimp each side, shrinktube over the top.
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/images/ctb06.gif

All can be bought from https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/

I would consider the following crimping tool essential for the number of connectors you are proposing:
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/photo/dv5.jpg

Yellow ones will take up to 6sq mm wire. That's 50A thinwall cable, you bike will have nothing that thick on it. So blue for thick wires, red for thin ones.
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Ringadingdoo
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your right about the crimp splices, thats why im having to repair some.

How well do all those crimps deal with splicing multiple wires. As you can see from the pic Im having to splice 4-5 3mm wires together.
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Raffles
World Chat Champion



Joined: 14 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing that the wires crimped together in this way are all earth wires. If this is the case then why don't you simply use ring connectors crimped to the end of each wire and connect them all together using a bolt threaded into the bike's frame?

A ring connector:-
https://media.digikey.com/photos/3M%20Photos/MN24-6RK.jpg
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ringadingdoo wrote:
Your right about the crimp splices, thats why im having to repair some.

How well do all those crimps deal with splicing multiple wires. As you can see from the pic Im having to splice 4-5 3mm wires together.


You'll get two, 3mm wires into either side of a yellow.

If it was me however, I'd put a bigger, 4.7mm non-insulated bullet connector on the end of each wire:
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/images/W.gif
Then connect them all into one of these which will join up to 4 connectors:
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/images/Ds.gif
For more, this bad boy will take 10:
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/images/fs.gif
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Out of interest why don't you want to solder?

In my experience a well soldered joint with some shrink-wrap over the top makes for the perfect join. Any crimped joint is a poor competitor in comparison, bulky, poorer connection and expensive.

Gaz
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
Out of interest why don't you want to solder?

In my experience a well soldered joint with some shrink-wrap over the top makes for the perfect join. Any crimped joint is a poor competitor in comparison, bulky, poorer connection and expensive.

Gaz


Solder isn't happy with vibration. Crimped connections are much better at handling vibration than solder is.
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 11:16 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Solder isn't happy with vibration. Crimped connections are much better at handling vibration than solder is.


I'll take your word for that, because you're usually right (or there abouts). But I've seen plenty of failed crimped joints, where they've either corroded or pulled apart or just made a poor connection. But I've never seen a properly soldered joint fail.

Surely if we're talking about work hardening and the wire failing immediately prior to, or after the joint then it has exactly the same pit-falls as the crimped joint. (EDIT: Except the heat shrink offers some support for a cm or so either side)

Gaz
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just twist them together and cover it in electrical tape. *Hides from Stinkwheel*
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Solder isn't happy with vibration. Crimped connections are much better at handling vibration than solder is.


Thats said, if neither side of the joint is rigidly fixed to the bike, vibration is not an issue.

I would also consider a soldered and shrinktubed joint to be perfectly acceptable on an unsupported piece of wire.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ringadingdoo
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any links to items or products recommended would be great guys.

Ive asked for some samples of open barrel splices which I can get for free, so simpley asked for all sizes available. Great way of getting connectors and switches for free too... but i didn't say that.

Thanks for the input, keep it comin
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are there a lot of wires to be spliced, or is it just a case of shortening a few existing wires between connector blocks?

If so, there is the option of running a new length of wire. Vehicle Wiring Products sell the spade connectors to go into connector blocks. Makes for a much cleaner job.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Solder isn't happy with vibration. Crimped connections are much better at handling vibration than solder is.


Agreed.

I asked the same question on another forum years ago, and all the dragracers said 'crimp - don't solder'. Soldering creates hard-spots in in the wire which causes the wire to snap from vibration.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Ringadingdoo
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 03 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny how some say crimp, others say solder, and from both amateur and professional alike.

At this stage im going for crimps, if I can get the right size. I found that I can get samples for free which saves money, also works with getting expensive connectors, so bit of a result there, just cant sell them, which is not an issue Smile

Once i found the right crimp for the job, I will just have to find the right tool, failing that, finding another option.
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