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Poor Braking - Servicing Calipers, help needed.

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StevenF
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Poor Braking - Servicing Calipers, help needed. Reply with quote

Hello,

Was out earlier in the week for the first time since the good weather started. I noticed that my bakes were terrible, it felt like they were almost non existent. Checked both fluid reservoirs and they're fine. Took a few pictures of my pads as well:

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wonderboy_001/P1000945.jpg

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wonderboy_001/P1000946.jpg

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wonderboy_001/P1000947.jpg

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wonderboy_001/P1000948.jpg

There's clearly still a little bit left on the pads, would think that would effect the brakes that much to be honest.

Any suggestions?
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Last edited by StevenF on 19:39 - 08 May 2011; edited 1 time in total
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bacon
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Re: Poor Braking... How do these pads look? Reply with quote

Loads of meat left on those mate, getting low is when you can no longer see the line that goes through the middle (around 1mm or less)

edit: reason your brakes could be feeling shit:

* old fluid, rebleed with fresh

* Corrosion, whip the calipers off and give everything a clean with a toothbrush and some brake cleaner.

Its also possible your pistons have seized a bit, rain and dirt gets behind the dust seals and corrosion effectivily pushes the seals out into the piston making them very stiff. Sometimes even dragging the dust seal out with it



Imo, after winter a full caliper rebuild is defo worth a few hours on a sunday. If you decide to do this you will need:

*small electrical screwdriver for scraping dirt from inside dust seal grooves
*Red rubber grease
*Cotton wool buds are good too for cleaning the seal grooves and inside the caliper once the hard stuff has been scraped out.
*brake cleaner
*toothbrush
*copper grease


Get an allen key and partially undo the caliper half bolts, don't undo them, just loosen the initial bite off them (will be hard when they are off the forks later)

Remove calipers from forks, remove pads and stick some wood between the caliper halves on both calipers. Pump them out until they are all nearly out (wood stopping them popping out completely)

Remove from brake line and drain fluid.

Split calipers in half (if you didn't loosen these earlier you will be having fun now, done it myself several times they can be tricky as you cant hold onto the caliper easily)

Clean the caliper body with brake cleaner and the toothbrush.

With the pistons nearly all the way out, they should be easy enough to pull out by hand with some pursuasion.

Remove all seals and leave to soak in brake fluid. The dust seals are only really what gets knackard with corrosion, but should be able to re-use most of them if not all of them with some luck.

Clean the seal grooves with the fine screwdriver, scraping out the white crap, using brake cleaner over them and cotton buds to remove any other dirt.

Once spotless, pack the seals with red rubber grease and reinsert seals, brake seals first, then dust seals. Wipe off any excess red grease that comes out from the seal. Clean up the pistons with some brake cleaner and a rag, dip in some brake fluid and reinstall them into the caliper. Some people like to put red rubber grease on the exposed piston once they have been put back in. Push them in flush to the caliper.

Join the caliper halves back up (loctite on the joining bolts, torque them up once the caliper is back on the bike), copper grease on back of pads and the pad pin etc and put them back together. Install back on fork. Torque the bolts with a torque wrench

Bolt the back to the banjo and rebleed with spanky clean brakes Smile

Spam reply over


Last edited by bacon on 16:23 - 08 May 2011; edited 1 time in total
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look fine to me, but if I were you I'd be more worried about the calipers being seized than anything else. As I recall the CBR600 in your avatar has sliding calipers, and so it could be that the sliders are corroded and the calipers don't want to move.

I'd take the whole lot off, strip and clean it, and free off the pistons if they are stuck. If the brake fluid is old, a fluid change would not go amiss.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Re: Poor Braking... How do these pads look? Reply with quote

StevenF wrote:


You can see in these two pictures that the pad pins here are bone dry and you can see little brown blobs of corrosion where the pads meet the pins. I'd say thats in definite need of a strip and clean. Copper grease is good for pad pins and sliders, but obviously you must not get any on the pad material.

If I were you, I'd also pump out the brake pistons and put a smear of red rubber grease on them, and then push them back in... unless they are also very corroded in which case you need to replace them along with the calpier seals too.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Re: Poor Braking... How do these pads look? Reply with quote

Ah didnt realise they were sliding calipers, they should be quicker to service then with half the pistons and seals Smile Thumbs Up
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, that's my next task then. I've only ever changed pads on my car, never serviced brakes before so should be fun! Smile

Thanks Bacon you that guide, it'll steer me in the right direction! Thumbs Up
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it be ok to use WD40 on the callipers rather than brake cleaner?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

StevenF wrote:
Would it be ok to use WD40 on the callipers rather than brake cleaner?


No.

If you get WD40 on your disks or pads, you'll have no brakes the next time you try to use them.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
StevenF wrote:
Would it be ok to use WD40 on the callipers rather than brake cleaner?


No.

If you get WD40 on your disks or pads, you'll have no brakes the next time you try to use them.


Thanks.

Came across a problem! Twisted Evil

The rear pad pin won't turn, the metal just disintegrates when I try turn it with a screw driver:

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wonderboy_001/P1000951.jpg

Once the pads are out, do I just start cleaning them up?
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 20:52 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

StevenF wrote:


Came across a problem! Twisted Evil

The rear pad pin won't turn, the metal just disintegrates when I try turn it with a screw driver:

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wonderboy_001/P1000951.jpg

Once the pads are out, do I just start cleaning them up?


I'd run over the pad pins with a fine emery paper to get rid of any corrosion. If they are badly pitted, or have grooves worn in them they'll need replacing. That one there will probably need replacing as you've rounded the head off.
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tatters
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats not the pad pin but a brass cap, the pin has a allen type bolt head under the cap.


If the cap wont come off when heated you need to drill it.
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got round to dong this today. I've taken the rear calliper off and split it in two and cleaned it all with brake fluid, but I can't seem to get the pistons to come out in order to clean them. Any idea what this is?
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tatters
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blasted them out with compressed air, wrap them in a rag first as they can pop out quite fast.
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Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

tatters wrote:
Blasted them out with compressed air, wrap them in a rag first as they can pop out quite fast.


And if you don't have any compressed air? Wink
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AndyB1989
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

re connect the brake line and pump them out
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 11 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so we have some progresses. Front brakes stripped down yesterday, cleaned, reassembled and after many hours I got them to bleed properly!

However the rear calliper pin has rounded off and won't turn. I going to pick up a new one today, but I need to get the old one out! The only way I can think of is drilling it out but unsure how to do this properly!

Any advice please? Smile
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 11 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it the pin that has seized, or is it a blanking plug before the pin?

Try an impact driver first, and worked for me. If not, try drilling it, but only to a depth of 4mm or so. Make sure the drill is centred, start with your smallest bit and gradually work up until you can remove the old plug, you may end up pulling the spiral thread of it out of the threads in the caliper body. Good to run a tap through the threads afterwards. If you done have a tap then a bolt of the correct pitch will clean them, use some light oil like 3in1 on the bolt while you wind it in to help pick up any crap.

If you damage the pin, get a new one. They're surprisingly expensive for what you get, about £5 each.

Corroded pins is a very common cause of sliding calipers performing poorly, even a fairly small amount of corrosion as on yours can have a major effect on the brakes.

If you haven't already, clean up the corrosion behind the fluid seals as bacon says. You'll probably be surprised at the amount of corrosion that you scrape out, falls out as white powder.

You'll have incredible brakes afterwards, bear this in mind the first time you use them. I nearly fell off the bike doing a low speed stop, a moderate squeeze felt like hitting a brick wall.
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 11 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that Robby. It's the actual pin that's stuck. I managed to get the blanking plate out but the head of the pin is rounded so won't turn. I tried hammering a slightly larger trox screw into it but didn't work.

I don't haves tap so will need to buy a bolt the same size from somewhere and try that.

One more question lol. I get the drilling the smallest drill bit into the pin, but how do I actually remove it?
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 11 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Is the end of the pin visible? You can sometimes drill them from the back and they just start to screw out once the drill bites. Or get an eazy out or similar and drill backwards from the top.


Yes you can see the end of the pin. I never thought about drilling or backwards. I'll have a wee look at an easy out as well thanks.
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