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YZF450 clutch

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Emo Kiddy



Joined: 02 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:35 - 17 Jun 2011    Post subject: YZF450 clutch Reply with quote

Took the YZF out yesterday to test it after the rebuild.

Everything is fine Very Happy


One little problem, on the re-build, I forgot to tighten on of the oil drain bolts back up. Embarassed

Was riding for about 10 miles, then the back end felt like it had a flat tyre, sliding all OVER the place.

Pulled over to find oil, literally pumping out of the engine, all over my boots. FML!!!!


Anyway, Dammy popped up in his van with a spare m6 bolt, a spanner, some rag, and some oil.



One thing I have noticed is, the clutch doesnt like to dis-engage properly in first.

It is possibly because it's a heavy duty clutch.

It'll happily go into neutral with the engine off, so it's not gearbox related.

But with it running, it wont go to neutral properly.


Also, when you stick it into first, it wants to creep forwards.


The clutch pressure plate is DEFINITELY lifting, a good 4 or 5mm off the clutch basket/plates, as I've pulled the lever with the cover off.

I am wondering weather this is because I've fitted a Barnett race clutch, and HD springs, and some of the plates are just sticking together?


Any ideas?



Ta



Ben
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garth
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 17 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it drag with the engine off, i.e. when in 1st with the engine off can you turn the wheel easily?
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Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 15:01 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

garth wrote:
Does it drag with the engine off, i.e. when in 1st with the engine off can you turn the wheel easily?


Erm, no I dont think it will.
But it never has. Always been quite hard to move.

I'll go check now, as I've been out on it all afternoon on the lanes.





Ben
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andym
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you tried loosening off the clutch cable at the gearbox?

That's the first thing I would do, over adjust it until the biting point was falling off the clutch lever then work back from there
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HD
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A mate has this problem with his rs. Takes like 20 seconds to get it into neutral with the engine running. You also have to have the lever against the bar when stopped in gear.

I know its adjusted wrong but he says he likes and he is used to it but if I could persuade him it will change his neutral issues then it will be better. When I ride it too Razz
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Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 19:21 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch is 100% not adjusted wrong.
This is why I cant understand it.

I've a feeling the plates are sticking together. But you'd of thought that once they "break" free, they wont stick again, or drag.

The clutch pressure plate lifts a good 5mm away from the clutch basket.
Then I can physically move the plates and steels around with my finger (Well, up and down).

But when re-assembled with the cover on and oil in, it dont half drag. Confused
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

warped plates
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 22:13 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
warped plates



Good call that.

But it's a spanking new clutch. Sad
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you only replace the friction plates? because they're not really what tends to warp are they?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 18 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unsure if this applies to your clutch.
Some Barnett clutch packs have concave aluminium plates that have to be fitted a certain way round.

Worth a punt.
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Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 10:33 - 19 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
did you only replace the friction plates? because they're not really what tends to warp are they?


Nope, complete clutch pretty much.

Friction plates, Steels, and HD springs.
It's the springs that I think may be causing this issue, as they are pressing the clutch together F*cking tight.



Howling Terror wrote:
Unsure if this applies to your clutch.
Some Barnett clutch packs have concave aluminium plates that have to be fitted a certain way round.

Worth a punt.


I know the style you're thinking of. They are more along the lines of a stock replacement clutch. Where the first friction plate has a bigger ID than the rest, then the 2 diaphragm rings sit inside this.
Mine doesn't have that, It just has 8 identical friction plates.




Last night, I was tinkering in the garage, fitted my fat bars and Zeta top clamp.
The clutch doesn't seem as bad now. In gear with clutch in, I can turn the rear wheel, but it's not exactly free rolling.




Ben
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 19 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

notched basket then?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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robocog
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 19 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you suspect its the springs can you replace 1/2 of them with the std ones? (alternate them)
I have heard of this being done on the DR350 where the full HD spring setup can be a bit bothersome

Dunno about the YZF but I do know on the DR the basket does need clearencing otherwise putting the manuals recomended tourque on the fixing nut can cause drag issues and loss of neutral (just done this myself and I now have a working neutral 100% of the time yippee)

When tourqued up my basket now has a very very small ammount of end float rather than a finger tight nut which it had before!

Regards
Rob
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