Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


GPZ 500 Idle problems

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

gottogetbig
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Feb 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:39 - 23 Jun 2011    Post subject: GPZ 500 Idle problems Reply with quote

Hi, I need some help.

My GPZ 500 starts up fairly good and easy. But it idles less than a 1000 and sounds like its struggling. With choke it idles about 1500. But I dont use it too often as I dont need to.

When I leave it ticking over it climbs fairly high. Went down to my mates about 10 minutes away and by the time I got off it was nearly on 3000 when it was idling.

Any ideas what it could be? I think because of the low tick over I turned it too high hence the 3000, but it takes time to climb that high so if I bring it down it will be really low when I first start it... it may not be that though as its always different, either way it isn't right and I am sick of adjusting it to get it to 1200 everytime I start it.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

pepperami
Super Spammer



Joined: 17 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:59 - 23 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

So by reading your post I can establish that you are/have been fiddling around with the idle/tick-over screw on the carbs?

So what made you first decide to tweak them?, was it that your bike was starting to tick-over very slowly and almost stall?
If that was the case and it was my bike, I would be thinking along the lines of a blocked pilot jet maybe?

Or the floats in one of the carbs is not working? possibly, maybe?.

Or was it that the revs began to rise once the bike was warm?
that may indicate an air leak somewhere possibly, maybe, I think?

just a couple of thoughts Thumbs Up
____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Glenben92
Nearly there...



Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:32 - 23 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I'd take the carbs off and give them a complete strip, clean and rebuild. Check the rubbers either side of both carbs for cracks or splits. Make sure there's a cap on the inlet manifold that isn't attatched to the tank's vacuum hose as well. (usually the right one)

I recently had an overfuelling problem in the right cylinder and it was the pin that holds the carb float arm to it's bracket; they're not held in by anything, it had slid out of one of its holes so it wasn't rising properly.

That's not your problem, but it's worth a mention for anyones future reference.
____________________
57 Huoniao HN125-8 - Smile, 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S - Very Happy
99 Yamaha FZS 600 - Wink
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:39 - 23 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you go pulling your bike to bits. Sounds to me like you have your starting drill arse-backwards and have set the idle speed way too high.

You should need the choke to start up a cold engine. This is the normal starting procedure. If you weren't meant to use the choke, they wouldn't have fitted one.

A cold engine idles slower, it is perfectly normal for a motorbike with a manual choke to stall-out on a cold engine if you don't use the choke. I have 5 bikes and I wouldn't expect any of them to idle properly on a cold engine without the choke. One of them has a GPZ500 engine in it.

Set your idle speed to a steady tickover with a warm engine. Start the on full choke from a cold engine. Then either back it off gradually as it warms up and the idle speed increases or ride away and knock the choke off on the fly then take it easy for the first couple of miles.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Suntan Sid
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 06:34 - 24 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is exactly the problem my mate had on his ER5, wouldn't idle at low revs, once the idle speed was adjusted, afters 30 secs or so the idle speed would increase to around 3000rpm, no amount of adjustment to the carbs and idle srew made any difference.

Turns out there was a, tiny pin hole, air leak in one of the diaphragms.
A new diaphragm improved the situation by 90%.
A complete and very thorough, clean, strip down and rebuild of the carbs, with all new parts, cured the problem 100%!
____________________
"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!" Cool
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts
Dr. Quack This post is not being displayed because the poster has bad karma. Unhide this post / all posts.

gottogetbig
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Feb 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:42 - 24 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought you only used the choke when it wouldn't start with out choke Embarassed From now on I will use it everytime and let it warm up plenty

I started it today with choke, it was at 2000 for a split second then went down below 1000 with choke on. I went out and checked on it and it was at 1500. I could hear it going up and down and when I was ready it was at 3K so i took the choke off and it went to 2k

I have a spare set of ER5 carbs lying around that are already clean and came from my ER5 that was running fine. Am I right in thinking they are OK to use as long as I swap all the jets inside to the GPZ ones?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:13 - 24 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

gottogetbig wrote:

I have a spare set of ER5 carbs lying around that are already clean and came from my ER5 that was running fine. Am I right in thinking they are OK to use as long as I swap all the jets inside to the GPZ ones?


They'd be ok but perhaps not ideal. There are other jets in there that you can't swap and I strongly suspect they aren't the same.

An erratic idle can be a sign of an air leak round the inlet manifold. Try spraying some EZ start round the inlet rubbers (between the carbs and the engine). If there is an air leak, the revs will increase when you spray them.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

gottogetbig
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Feb 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:31 - 24 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They'd be ok but perhaps not ideal. There are other jets in there that you can't swap and I strongly suspect they aren't the same.

An erratic idle can be a sign of an air leak round the inlet manifold. Try spraying some EZ start round the inlet rubbers (between the carbs and the engine). If there is an air leak, the revs will increase when you spray them.


I'll leave them alone and just clean the ones I have if I need to.

So would you say the next step is to buy EZ start and spray plenty over the rubbers and then see if I need a new set of rubbers?

And if the rubbers are fine would you say strip the carbs? The bike was standing 2 years before I got it... No idea if the carbs were cleaned before I got it or not
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 14 years, 246 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.08 Sec - Server Load: 1.66 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 63.94 Kb