|
|
| Author |
Message |
| gottogetbig |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 gottogetbig L Plate Warrior
Joined: 14 Feb 2009 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| pepperami |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 pepperami Super Spammer

Joined: 17 Jan 2010 Karma :    
|
 Posted: 19:59 - 23 Jun 2011 Post subject: |
 |
|
So by reading your post I can establish that you are/have been fiddling around with the idle/tick-over screw on the carbs?
So what made you first decide to tweak them?, was it that your bike was starting to tick-over very slowly and almost stall?
If that was the case and it was my bike, I would be thinking along the lines of a blocked pilot jet maybe?
Or the floats in one of the carbs is not working? possibly, maybe?.
Or was it that the revs began to rise once the bike was warm?
that may indicate an air leak somewhere possibly, maybe, I think?
just a couple of thoughts  ____________________ I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now! |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Glenben92 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Glenben92 Nearly there...

Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Karma :  
|
 Posted: 22:32 - 23 Jun 2011 Post subject: |
 |
|
Yeah I'd take the carbs off and give them a complete strip, clean and rebuild. Check the rubbers either side of both carbs for cracks or splits. Make sure there's a cap on the inlet manifold that isn't attatched to the tank's vacuum hose as well. (usually the right one)
I recently had an overfuelling problem in the right cylinder and it was the pin that holds the carb float arm to it's bracket; they're not held in by anything, it had slid out of one of its holes so it wasn't rising properly.
That's not your problem, but it's worth a mention for anyones future reference. ____________________ 57 Huoniao HN125-8 - , 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S -
99 Yamaha FZS 600 -
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010 |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
|
 Posted: 23:39 - 23 Jun 2011 Post subject: |
 |
|
Before you go pulling your bike to bits. Sounds to me like you have your starting drill arse-backwards and have set the idle speed way too high.
You should need the choke to start up a cold engine. This is the normal starting procedure. If you weren't meant to use the choke, they wouldn't have fitted one.
A cold engine idles slower, it is perfectly normal for a motorbike with a manual choke to stall-out on a cold engine if you don't use the choke. I have 5 bikes and I wouldn't expect any of them to idle properly on a cold engine without the choke. One of them has a GPZ500 engine in it.
Set your idle speed to a steady tickover with a warm engine. Start the on full choke from a cold engine. Then either back it off gradually as it warms up and the idle speed increases or ride away and knock the choke off on the fly then take it easy for the first couple of miles. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Suntan Sid |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Suntan Sid World Chat Champion

Joined: 07 May 2009 Karma :    
|
 Posted: 06:34 - 24 Jun 2011 Post subject: |
 |
|
This is exactly the problem my mate had on his ER5, wouldn't idle at low revs, once the idle speed was adjusted, afters 30 secs or so the idle speed would increase to around 3000rpm, no amount of adjustment to the carbs and idle srew made any difference.
Turns out there was a, tiny pin hole, air leak in one of the diaphragms.
A new diaphragm improved the situation by 90%.
A complete and very thorough, clean, strip down and rebuild of the carbs, with all new parts, cured the problem 100%! ____________________ "Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Dr. Quack |
This post is not being displayed because the poster has bad karma. Unhide this post / all posts.
|
 Dr. Quack Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 17 Mar 2011 Karma :     
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| gottogetbig |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 gottogetbig L Plate Warrior
Joined: 14 Feb 2009 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 12:42 - 24 Jun 2011 Post subject: |
 |
|
I thought you only used the choke when it wouldn't start with out choke From now on I will use it everytime and let it warm up plenty
I started it today with choke, it was at 2000 for a split second then went down below 1000 with choke on. I went out and checked on it and it was at 1500. I could hear it going up and down and when I was ready it was at 3K so i took the choke off and it went to 2k
I have a spare set of ER5 carbs lying around that are already clean and came from my ER5 that was running fine. Am I right in thinking they are OK to use as long as I swap all the jets inside to the GPZ ones? |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| gottogetbig |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 gottogetbig L Plate Warrior
Joined: 14 Feb 2009 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 246 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
 |
|
|