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Araldite fork pitting fix

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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Araldite fork pitting fix Reply with quote

Quick advice from the folks out there who are familiar with this bodge...

I've removed the forks, removed all the dirt and grease using brake cleaner followed by white spirits. I've pain stakingly picked out all the crud from the little pits and given them another wipe over with white spirits. I've then filled each of the pits with a small amount of araldite precision (the 24hr setting stuff) and they're currently curing.

I have some 800grit wet&dry, some 1500grit wet&dry, some fine finishing cloths, some autosol and some polishing cloths, so I have everything to get the forks back to a baby's bum smoothness.

My question is, I've heard that polishing the forks once they're smooth is a good idea, now obviously the autosol is a polish, but is it worth putting something a bit more hard wearing on there, for example, I have some autglym extra gloss protection which claims to be a "semi-permanent" barrier. I've used it on the car on top of normal polish and it does a great job of protecting the paint work, so is it worth giving the forks a couple of layers of this gloss to reduce friction/increase protection, or should I leave it after the autosol?

This is the autoglym stuff... Note, it's not to be confused with polish... It is purely a gloss layer:

https://www.holden.co.uk/productImageslTitled/Autoglym_Extra_Gloss_Protection_325ml_090.889.jpg

Product description here: https://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FH
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LongJohn22
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It contains wax which means it is a little harder than cheese. This product is designed to withstand the abrasion of rain hitting whatever you've applied it to, at speed. You are proposing to apply it to a surface subject to the friction of a fork seal, rubbing it many thousands of times a mile. I would take a bet that any you apply to a fork leg will have disappeared before you reach the end of the road. Nice idea, but in my view totally impractible, most polishing products are subject to a level of hype that borders on fraud. Wax is wax, candles are wax and are just as hard as polishes, they enhance a paint finish, the level of protection is minimal.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always assumed that the polishing was simply the next step up from the wet and dry. Its not for cosmetics just simply to get that little bit of extra smoothness.
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It also contains hard resins, which I would've thought would be a bit tougher than your standard car wax.

Either way, I guess the oil will dissolve the gloss and the seals will rub it away. 'twere just a thought.
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
I've always assumed that the polishing was simply the next step up from the wet and dry. Its not for cosmetics just simply to get that little bit of extra smoothness.


Hence the autosol. Just wondered if taking it a step further was worth while. Perhaps not eh?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't really serve any purpose. Use it if it makes you feel better. BTW when I sand them I prefer to use an up down motion as opposed to around the tube. Makes sense to me to go with the normal movement of the stanchion.
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes sense... Cheers marki
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neil.
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 25 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would recommend fitting gaiters when you put it all back together for really good protection. Thumbs Up
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 06:52 - 26 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

neil. wrote:
Would recommend fitting gaiters when you put it all back together for really good protection. Thumbs Up


This. They may look pony, but on the GS I'm renovating, the gaiters have kept the stanchions looking brand new. Remember that the bike's older than I am, too. No pitting, no weeping, nothing.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:49 - 26 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there's much point polishing the stanchions after using 1500 paper. They will get either polished or scored in use by the fork sliding bushes.
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 26 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, bar a small pit or two on each stanchion, they are now smoother than glass. I've gone for another round of araldite on the remaining little blemishes and hopefully by this time tomorrow, both stanchions will be 100% silk-like.

Pete you were right, after removing the excess with the 800, I gave them a good stroking with the 1500 and it returned to a mirror finish, so the autosol is not really necessary.

So far I'm incredibly impressed with the finish this has given the forks, however does anyone know how long this repair will last? I've got some gaiters on my wish list, which will obviously protect the repair from most dangers, but even so, rubbing through the fork seals must take it's toll... Anybody have actual experience of this repair and know how long it will last?

Many thanks

Poseidon
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 26 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should last a long time TBH. Easily long enough for you source some more stanchions.
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 26 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sourcing them isn't the problem. Affording them is! These stanchions are too far gone for re-chroming, so the only option is to replace them and it's over £200 for pattern ones, let alone oem ones! It'll be at least 5 months until I can realistically afford the replacements.

Fingers crossed the repair will last.
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