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Getting bearings off a yoke spindle HELP! update!

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pepperami
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 06 Jul 2011    Post subject: Getting bearings off a yoke spindle HELP! update! Reply with quote

OK ! so the great Sachs XTC saga continues Smile

Well today I took the front wheel out and dropped the forks, no major issues there thankfully Thumbs Up

After a bit of swearing and cursing the yokes finally let go Thumbs Up , the top bearing looks and feels to be in good order.
However the bottom bearings are absolutely f*cked.
I`ve got a new set to go in, but the bearing shell in the head-stock and the bearing on the bottom yoke just refuse to let go (bi-metalic corrosion I suspect).

So mighty BCF!, I seek your advice Smile , how do I get them out without destroying the yoke and head-stock?
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Last edited by pepperami on 16:22 - 10 Jul 2011; edited 1 time in total
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 06 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried warming them up?
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 06 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A internally expanding bearing puller would be a good bet for the race in the headstock.

The usual method is drifting it out from above using a long drift or flat blade screwdriver and a hammer.

You may be able to carefully but a slot in the bearing cage on the yolk, then crack the cage and the rollers off with a chisel. You are left with the inner race, which you can carefully pry up with the chisel working a little at a time from different directions.

If your worried any good machine shop should be able to swap the bottom bearing for a few quid.
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robocog
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 06 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

heat, penetrating fluid, patience and suitable force

Just been through similar recently so I feel your pain

I used a combination of the above which eventually worked
(though mine may have been a tad easier as it was steel and bronze firmly wedged in alloy so heating the alloy and cooling the stuck bits with the penetrating fluid and rapidly getting physical with it got them shifted...eventually)

For the part thats stuck in the headstock just make sure you drift it out straight (so work a little at a time and keep moving round it and use plenty of penetrant)

May help to heat the headstock up a tad (may help assist breaking the bond as well as hopefully expanding the tube)

For the yoke -again heating the siezed bearing should help it off (even better if you can run a hosepipe or something down the steering tube so it stays cool)

either way deffo worth soaking both the stuck bits in penetrant and going off to do something less frustrating whist it does its stuff

Good luck

Regards
Rob
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andys675
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 06 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem with a TZR125R front end I was fitting on my 350 YPVS, I hacksawed a slot in the bearing and then used a small chisel on the slot until it cracked, once it cracked it went loose on the stem, but also seen the slot cut with a dremel on another bike
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 06 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a complete bastard of a job. Just keep at it. A good sharp drift for the one in the headstock is invaluable, if the edges are rounded, face it off again with a file.

The bottom one will let go eventually. I usuaslly prise it off with a pry bar and/or a cold chisel and hammer, just keep working round and round. Do not expect to retrievve the dust seal intact.

If you have access to a welder, run a ring of weld round the race in the headstock and it'll either drop out or shatter when you hit it with a hammer.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 08 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much thankness for your replies folks Thumbs Up
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 08 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that`s the bearing off the yoke Thumbs Up done with a mixture of heating and cooling + some bashing Smile , no damage done to the yoke or the yoke stem Smile .

Now for the shells in the headstock Shocked .
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 10 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I got the bearing off the yoke and the bearing guides/shells out of the head-stock...........so far so good,

Now I find a problem Confused Sad , the top guide/shell went in as it should ie a tight/firm fit.
However the bottom guide/shell just pushed in and appears to be a tiny bit loose? Eh? .

So either I have wear in the head-stock or the bottom bearing is a different size?
I have looked in the manual and I can see nothing about diffreing sizes of bearing on the yoke or in the head-stock?.

so mighty BCF , what did you do when the head race bearing were a bit loose?, did you pack them? what with?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 10 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure you have them the right way round? (ie. bottom in bottom and top in top?)

If it's just a bit loose (as in not rattling), you can use bearing fit compound which essentially glues it in place.

That said, as long as it can't move and rotate in the seat, it ought to be ok. It can't drop out when it's all assembled
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 10 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loctite do several variations of bearing fit or bearing mount. You really do need to check before resorting to 'glueing' the bearing in that it is indeed the correct bearing that you are trying to fit. Headstock bearings see tremendous side loads during braking so take your time and make sure you've got it right.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 10 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

kestrel wrote:
Loctite do several variations of bearing fit or bearing mount. You really do need to check before resorting to 'glueing' the bearing in that it is indeed the correct bearing that you are trying to fit. Headstock bearings see tremendous side loads during braking so take your time and make sure you've got it right.


I would not trust Loctite in that application as it will break down under load, 0.01mm of play at the bearing could give 5mm at the wheel.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 10 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:

I would not trust Loctite in that application as it will break down under load, 0.01mm of play at the bearing could give 5mm at the wheel.


The one I've used in the past is permabond A1046. Rated for a gap of up to 0.25mm. Rated for 33Nm of torque and 25MPa of shear.

As has been said though. They SHOULD be an interference fit and need pressing/hammering in.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 11 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loctite bearing fit or a similar product would be fine. They specify a minimum 2 thou gap anyway.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 11 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have been doing some research and I definately have the right bearings and I am putting them in the right way!

Talking to the owner reveals that the front end has been messed around with at some time in the past and crashed Shocked .

I`m guessing that the front end was`nt tightened up properly last time and this has caused wear and tear on the bottom hole of the head-stock.

I take on board what you chaps say about bearing-bond, this may be the solution........... I hope (fingers crossed)
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