Rear Preload.

[WannaBeDude]

Have tightened up my rear preload, as sit seemed a bit to bouncy for me, think i may of tightened it too much, so before my C spanner turns up in the week, any thoughts on a good rear preload setting. I'm 17 stone btw ....
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Jogging on, destination living.

[G]

Google came up with this:
https://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.peqehomhihbyduvj&pageId=97391

Something like 25mm sag as it talks about there is pretty standard. You are setting a consistent sag for you on the bike, not a specific 'setting'.

However, ideally you would probably get a new spring matched to your weight, as yours is probably for a lighter rider.

[WannaBeDude]

When they sold me the bike, they said it was ok, the seller did a ride on it and was of similar weight at the time.

I lost about a stone and a half, and it became more bouncy, i wanted better handling through tighter corners.

I screw drivered the preload down about an inch and a half, and sitting on the bike it seems a little too stiff.

I'd also like to ask, the four frame bolts that connect the rear frame to the front. Should they be solidly connected tight or have some play.


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Jogging on, destination living.

[G]

If you lose weight, the bike should get a stiffer feel.
However, it's possible what you may be then feeling is damping settings set too low ('bounce' is obviously quite vague) - as you now have less weight to damp out the spring, which may actually be too stiff now.

The subframe should definitely be solidly connected with no play.

[WannaBeDude]

Thanks, it feels stiff bouncing on top of it upright, not ridden with settings yet. C spanner will turn up in the week, i'll undo it an inch no more and test when bikes working again.

At present it feels likes the back end would take a pounding on potholes etc ... although i allways, if i see them, lift my fat ass up to compensate.

Part of the problem is, i don't really know whats best, i was under the impression a tighter rear preload would be better for cornering now i'm experienced at least with this bike and pushing the boundrys more.


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Jogging on, destination living.

[G]

Read the link I posted - get the preload set to the correct amount of sag and use that as a base line.

Generally you want as soft suspension as possible, but without bottoming out or undulating. This way it will be the most compliant over bumps mid-corner.

[WannaBeDude]

Blimey, really, so i need to adjust it where bouncing stationary on the bike, it does not bottom out / reach the max spring load ?

edit, that link is the very page i read before thread making ... lol
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[weasley]

Just to point out something commonly misunderstood - adjusting preload make NO DIFFERENCE to the 'stiffness' of the spring - all it does is adjust which part of the shock's travel you are using. As explained above, you set the preload to achieve a static 'sag', which is typically around a third of the available shock travel.

If it's too bouncy then you need to adjust damping (compression and/or rebound) but you need to get it all back to stock settings and start from there, otherwise you'll find yourself in a mess. Alternatively the shock is worn and not damping correctly anyway.
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Yamaha XJ600 | Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat | KTM 990 SMT | BMW F900XR TE

[WannaBeDude]

It's a non adjustable shock that only has preload, it's done about 5500 km ...

Will loosen it back a touch and see how it feels.
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[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

Use a cable tie around.
Bit fiddly on a rear shock, but it'll show you if it's bottoming out.
I couldn't always tell when my ST2 was bottoming out as they have rubber stoppers and it used to just kiss them.

Ideally you want some freeplay for those 'Oh i've hit a pothole' moments.

https://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m174/howlingterror_2006/IMG_0085-2.jpg
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Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project

[WannaBeDude]

This is how it is, adjuster has been screwed downwards over an inch.

https://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/covdude/2011/18072011.jpg

https://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/covdude/2011/18072011002.jpg
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Jogging on, destination living.

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

A picture normally helps...Not in this situation.

Cable tie it...Ride it. Look where the cable tie ends up.
Against the stopper? Then lose more weight or change the spring.

You want about 10mm freeplay.
____________________
Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project

[WannaBeDude]

So applying my full weight on the seat upright, about 10 mm play between the metal body of the shock and the lower black rubber stopper .. ?
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Jogging on, destination living.

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

You need to ride the bike as you would normally do. i.e wearing kit on a mixture of road types.

Thing is you're a big lad. The bike was probably built and road tested using an average weight Italian.

My Ducati is a Sports Tourer. It's meant to haul luggage, rider and luggage. I'm not that heavy (12 1/2 stone) my pillions are under 9st. My preload is on full and it will still bottom out.
As i don't do much full luggage with pillion touring i haven't bothered uprating the spring.
Your bike is still newish so the suspension will still be working well.

Suspension is always a compromise.
____________________
Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project

[WannaBeDude]

Thanks,

I'll get sopmeone to look at it to see exact travel when i'm on it, and go from there.

ta
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Jogging on, destination living.

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]