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GPZ500 Rear Brake Pads

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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 17 Aug 2011    Post subject: GPZ500 Rear Brake Pads Reply with quote

How are the brake pads on the rear brake held on?

I've just had the wheel out to replace the tyre, it's my first time doing it and when I went to put it all back together one of the pads fell out of the caliper and I wasn't quite sure how it goes back in.

Can any one enlighten me?!!

GPZ500 1995

Thanks
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:55 - 18 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are held on by blind luck and wishful thinking.

They sit inside the calliper frame and are held in place because they can't get back out of the frame on account of being trapped between the disc and the calliper.

it is not unheard of for them to be spat out during use once they are worn down a bit. It's happened to me twice.

Slot it back into place, pump the brake a few times to push the brake piston out which ought to trap it between the calliper and the disc.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 07:33 - 18 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They are held on by blind luck and wishful thinking.

They sit inside the calliper frame and are held in place because they can't get back out of the frame on account of being trapped between the disc and the calliper.

it is not unheard of for them to be spat out during use once they are worn down a bit. It's happened to me twice.

Slot it back into place, pump the brake a few times to push the brake piston out which ought to trap it between the calliper and the disc.


wow that sounds a bit scary! I thought i must've lost a clip or something. Thanks for the reassurance I'll pop it back in tonight.

Thanks
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 18 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is an anti-rattle spring in there but it doesn't do anything to hold them in place as such.

If you still have the wheel out, probably best to fit the wheel then slide the calliper over the disc rather than trying to slot it in with the calliper attached. Pushing the piston back in a little will make this easier.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 18 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep wheel is now in so I was thinking I'll take the caliper off the bracket and try and slot it all back in.

Thanks Stinkwheel
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 19 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I managed to get them back in last night, and I'm glad I had problems as I removed the pads and it turns out one of them only had a wafer thin amount of material left! Strangely the other pad looked had absolutely loads on, hence why I thought they were ok when I checked them.

Is this normal?
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 19 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

upanddown22 wrote:
Well I managed to get them back in last night, and I'm glad I had problems as I removed the pads and it turns out one of them only had a wafer thin amount of material left! Strangely the other pad looked had absolutely loads on, hence why I thought they were ok when I checked them.

Is this normal?



It is ok to have a small discrepancy between the pad wear but not loads. It suggests the brakes are binding slightly. If you get the front wheel off the ground and spin it does it go round a few times before stopping or does it come to an abrupt halt? Your pad wear suggests the brakes were binding (i.e. rubbing on the disc a bit too much) - which pad was most worn, that on the piston side or non piston side?

What I would do first is to get the caliper off, remove and clean up the caliper slider pins, clean the hole in the caliper that the pins fit into and clean the rubber boots. Check all parts for damage or wear whilst doing this. After that grease it back up and reinstall, the caliper should slide freely on the pins once reinstalled. Whilst in there I would also pump the pistons out a little using the brake lever (not all the way) and scrub off the ring of muck using brake cleaner and a soft tooth brush

If this doesn't help then I'd strip the caliper and clean/replace the brake and dust seals. I think it goes without saying that you need to replace BOTH pads Smile .


HTH.
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 19 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
upanddown22 wrote:
Well I managed to get them back in last night, and I'm glad I had problems as I removed the pads and it turns out one of them only had a wafer thin amount of material left! Strangely the other pad looked had absolutely loads on, hence why I thought they were ok when I checked them.

Is this normal?



It is ok to have a small discrepancy between the pad wear but not loads. It suggests the brakes are binding slightly. If you get the front wheel off the ground and spin it does it go round a few times before stopping or does it come to an abrupt halt? Your pad wear suggests the brakes were binding (i.e. rubbing on the disc a bit too much) - which pad was most worn, that on the piston side or non piston side?

What I would do first is to get the caliper off, remove and clean up the caliper slider pins, clean the hole in the caliper that the pins fit into and clean the rubber boots. Check all parts for damage or wear whilst doing this. After that grease it back up and reinstall, the caliper should slide freely on the pins once reinstalled. Whilst in there I would also pump the pistons out a little using the brake lever (not all the way) and scrub off the ring of muck using brake cleaner and a soft tooth brush

If this doesn't help then I'd strip the caliper and clean/replace the brake and dust seals. I think it goes without saying that you need to replace BOTH pads Smile .


HTH.


It was the non piston pad so sounds like it must have been sticking, I'm going to order new pads and give the caliper a clean up next week. Hmmm i wonder if that could have contributed to poor fuel economy. Although presumably if it was that bad i would have suffered from a bent disc or something as well.

Will report back once i've done the work, I won't be riding it until it's sorted!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 19 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything about those single pot kawasaki rear callipers is an abortion, always was.

It'll be corrosion inside the tube one of the slider pins runs through. If you look at it you'll see one of the pins goes into a blind hole, the other one appears to have a rubber cap on the end. This is actually a rubber boot that goes all the way through the calliper with the pin on the inside of it. Water can get in between the boot and the body of the calliper. The alloy corrodes and swells causing the pin to stick.

You need to pull the calliper off the pins and remove that rubber boot. It'll probably be knackered. Scrape all the powdery white corroded alloy out of the tube and fit a new boot (or reuse the old one if you didn't rip it getting it out). Use red high temperature grease on both the inside and outside of the boot when you reassemble it. Latterly, I started putting a bead of clear bathroom silicone round the end where the boot sticks out through the calliper to stop water getting in.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 23 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gents thanks for the help so far! I'm so glad I asked this question as I took a look at my front caliper and it turned out that the little rubber boot that goes through the caliper wasn't all the way through and was stopping the caliper moving.

I took the slider bit off the caliper and greased it all up and the lever felt much much better, however when I spin the wheel round a bit it still stops fairly quickly, maybe after half a spin. Is this normal? you can definitely hear them rubbing.

Rear pads will be going on tonight.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 23 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

upanddown22 wrote:
however when I spin the wheel round a bit it still stops fairly quickly, maybe after half a spin. Is this normal? you can definitely hear them rubbing.



They always rub a little, but it should be quite light, the wheel should spin a few times times before stopping really.

Did you clear out and grease both sliding pins?


If you remove the caliper again, press the lever a few times so that the pistons poke out (but not so many times that a piston falls out or you will need to bleed the brakes), there will probably be a ring of filth around it where the exposed bit of the piston has picked up road grime. Try cleaning this off using a can of brake cleaner spray (can pick it up in some pound shops - it is in halfrauds but at about £5 a can!) and a soft toothbrush. If one piston moves freely and the other doesn't then it could be the source of your problem - not familiar with the design of your caliper but you can normally wedge something wooden in to stop one moving but allow the other to move freely.

After cleaning both pistons, press them back in slowly, refit everythign, pump the brakes until they are firm and try the spinning the wheel trick again. If that hasn't helped and you have greased all moving parts on the caliper itself then I would strip and rebuild the caliper completely - i.e. remove the pistons and seals, clean up and bleed with nice fresh fluid - replacing any damaged seals at the same time. If you are considering a braided brake line this would be the time to do it.

Stripping and rebleedin a brake system isnt that difficult and the results are usually worth the effort, there are numerous guides on here so if you try cleaning the pistons and giving the sliders a proper clean and grease to no avail then it is certainly worth a go.
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 23 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep I cleared out both the sliding pins, but I think the main problem was the rubber dust seal not being in the caliper completely. The pistons were a bit dirty, I should have cleaned them up more to be honest.

Think a rebuild sounds like a plan, the dust seals looked like they'd had better days. I think I'll get hold of everything to do it and do it in the next couple of weeks.

It'll be nice to feel the brakes are in tip top condition!
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the rear pads in last night, they went in fine apart from requiring a bit of metal being taken off from the backing plate on the pad. Guess thats what happens when you buy cheapo ones.

Strangely the sliding pins we in good condition and still had a liberal covering of grease, so not sure why the caliper would have been sticking?! Rolling Eyes
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A sticky piston that doesn't retract properly will also cause the brakes to bind. Usual cause is crud or corrosion behind the seals causing them to grab hold of the piston too tight, stops the piston retracting hence the pads are pushed into contact with the disc.
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upanddown22
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
A sticky piston that doesn't retract properly will also cause the brakes to bind. Usual cause is crud or corrosion behind the seals causing them to grab hold of the piston too tight, stops the piston retracting hence the pads are pushed into contact with the disc.


Makes sense, I'll take them apart sometime soon, the bikes done 18000 miles so probably about time anyways

Thanks again Smile
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