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| upanddown22 |
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :     
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 01:55 - 18 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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They are held on by blind luck and wishful thinking.
They sit inside the calliper frame and are held in place because they can't get back out of the frame on account of being trapped between the disc and the calliper.
it is not unheard of for them to be spat out during use once they are worn down a bit. It's happened to me twice.
Slot it back into place, pump the brake a few times to push the brake piston out which ought to trap it between the calliper and the disc. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| upanddown22 |
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:12 - 18 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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There is an anti-rattle spring in there but it doesn't do anything to hold them in place as such.
If you still have the wheel out, probably best to fit the wheel then slide the calliper over the disc rather than trying to slot it in with the calliper attached. Pushing the piston back in a little will make this easier. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| upanddown22 |
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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| DrDonnyBrago |
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 DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion

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| upanddown22 |
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 13:14 - 19 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Everything about those single pot kawasaki rear callipers is an abortion, always was.
It'll be corrosion inside the tube one of the slider pins runs through. If you look at it you'll see one of the pins goes into a blind hole, the other one appears to have a rubber cap on the end. This is actually a rubber boot that goes all the way through the calliper with the pin on the inside of it. Water can get in between the boot and the body of the calliper. The alloy corrodes and swells causing the pin to stick.
You need to pull the calliper off the pins and remove that rubber boot. It'll probably be knackered. Scrape all the powdery white corroded alloy out of the tube and fit a new boot (or reuse the old one if you didn't rip it getting it out). Use red high temperature grease on both the inside and outside of the boot when you reassemble it. Latterly, I started putting a bead of clear bathroom silicone round the end where the boot sticks out through the calliper to stop water getting in. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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| DrDonnyBrago |
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 DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Jan 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 17:39 - 23 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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| upanddown22 wrote: | however when I spin the wheel round a bit it still stops fairly quickly, maybe after half a spin. Is this normal? you can definitely hear them rubbing. |
They always rub a little, but it should be quite light, the wheel should spin a few times times before stopping really.
Did you clear out and grease both sliding pins?
If you remove the caliper again, press the lever a few times so that the pistons poke out (but not so many times that a piston falls out or you will need to bleed the brakes), there will probably be a ring of filth around it where the exposed bit of the piston has picked up road grime. Try cleaning this off using a can of brake cleaner spray (can pick it up in some pound shops - it is in halfrauds but at about £5 a can!) and a soft toothbrush. If one piston moves freely and the other doesn't then it could be the source of your problem - not familiar with the design of your caliper but you can normally wedge something wooden in to stop one moving but allow the other to move freely.
After cleaning both pistons, press them back in slowly, refit everythign, pump the brakes until they are firm and try the spinning the wheel trick again. If that hasn't helped and you have greased all moving parts on the caliper itself then I would strip and rebuild the caliper completely - i.e. remove the pistons and seals, clean up and bleed with nice fresh fluid - replacing any damaged seals at the same time. If you are considering a braided brake line this would be the time to do it.
Stripping and rebleedin a brake system isnt that difficult and the results are usually worth the effort, there are numerous guides on here so if you try cleaning the pistons and giving the sliders a proper clean and grease to no avail then it is certainly worth a go. |
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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 Posted: 11:23 - 24 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Put the rear pads in last night, they went in fine apart from requiring a bit of metal being taken off from the backing plate on the pad. Guess thats what happens when you buy cheapo ones.
Strangely the sliding pins we in good condition and still had a liberal covering of grease, so not sure why the caliper would have been sticking?!  ____________________ Kawasaki GPZ500S 1995 |
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 DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion

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 upanddown22 Nova Slayer
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 45 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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