Car speaker question

[dransy]

Im after changing the speakers in my car , ive looked in the manual and the sizes are 61/2"

Im not after anything fancy or expensive just want something better than the standard ones that are in at the moment.

Can anyone recommend any? Also will i just be able to swop them straight over?

Thanks
Marco
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Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles

[Poseidon]

I had some 180w 16.5cm infinity two way speakers in my ford escort (way back in 2002). Had the car for a year, when I sold the car my dad stole the speakers and blaupunkt head unit and fitted them in his astra van. He uses the van daily and loves his music loud, the speakers are still going strong and sound as good as ever. Found some that look very similar on the bay for 42quid... clicky.

I'm no expert on audio matters, but it seemed no matter what music I chucked through them, the sound was amazing!

EDIT:
Should add that with all the little holes around the edge, you should be able to offer them up and screw them straight in.
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1977 Honda CG125
2002 Ducati Monster S4 (currently restoring)

[defblade]

Be careful.... most stereos will allow you to turn their amplifier up so high it starts clipping the signal. The nicer the speakers you put in, the quicker this will kill them! (Which is why you always hear lads saying "those were rubbish, they cost £100 and blew in a week"). This is because a better speaker is more sensitive and more responsive... but therefore more delicate when fed a poor signal.

When you fit them, get/make a test tone disc and play a 1kHz signal through your stereo - you'll hear when the note suddenly changes as you turn the volume up. That'll be clipping - turn the volume back a couple of notches and never go above that setting.

If it's not loud enough, come back and ask about amps
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Honda Varadero 125cc => Suzuki Bandit 650 33bhp => 77bhp =>
BMW K1200R Sport 163bhp => Aprilia Shiver GT 750 95bhp

[dgo1212]

What car is it? If it's newish and quite decent try replacing them with something that will, as you ask "swap straight over", in most cars the standard head units look better than any replacement and same go's for the speakers, speakers diy'ed into parcel shelfs and subs/amps etc in the boot look ghey and can be a real pain in the arse at times

Edit-the ones that Poisedon has found you will not only fit but probably allow the standard covers to go back on instead of the infinity covers, excellent find

Also take on board the other posters (sorry forget who it was) advice about not turning them up too loud, the test disc sounds a good idea

[Hockeystorm65]

I had these in my FTO:

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_768523_langId_-1_categoryId_165707

with additional Black air tweeters in the dash and a pair of Megavox 6x9's in the back, sounded great.
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Good judgement comes from experience.....experience comes from bad judgement!

[The Tot]

Firstly what car? I assume you're looking for front speaker mounts?

I swapped over the front door speakers and went up a size from 5" to 6 1/2" and went with these

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_238023_categoryId_165707_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_List_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PLPz1

Those are Alpine SXE 1725 coaxials. It's literally a straight swap. I decided to solder and heat shrink them into the existing wire.

I've got an aftermarket kenwood head unit, and since installing these bargain puppies, I've had to reset my EQ to cater for the fact that the built in tweeters put in a lot more highs. Generally speaking, I've got my EQ set to handle metal and rock, so there's a massive mid range scoop, bass and treble guitar solos are accentuated. I don't even need a sub. I play my music load but I seldom turn it to 11. Bass is punchy without being overwhelming. But generally, you get a greater warmth out of these. Affordable and a very good upgrade. I was looking at getting the Alpine SPG's which are the next range up, but I'm adequately impressed with how they sound in my civic.

Pics below

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285323_10150322575525712_500990711_9472023_4564490_n.jpg

https://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267474_10150322574540712_500990711_9472004_1025943_n.jpg

https://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267440_10150322580075712_500990711_9472065_3745338_n.jpg
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[defblade]

[Daimo]

Firstly, do you have an uprated head unit? This is the first thing to do to vastly improve quality in all areas. It improves the signal, and a cheap speaker can sound a lot better with aftermarket head unit.

If so, you can replace the speakers, but you may find you need to cut the original connector block off that connects to the standard speakers.

You can run the front speakers off off the head unit. Most have "Pre-Outs" these days to either the sub or speakers.

Audio really is a case of "how much do you want to spend?" I've spent £300 on EACH set of components in the past. Depends how much boom you got coming through

A set of 6.5" will go in, as mentioned above you may need plastic adapter plates if the cone is quite deep. Personnally, I made my own out of wood. It doesn't allow so many vibrations to run through the plastic (hence noise/quality loss).

My old kit (those are 15"s, far too big, but I got them at a very good price. Really, I needed two of these Kicker amps, one to power each sub, but at £700, I could only afford so much as an early 20 yo.)

https://images30.fotki.com/v464/photos/4/48802/198778/2003NewICEEquip3-vi.jpg


And the missis, which comprised of x2 sets of Comps (seperate tweets and mids), two amps, and two 12"s.

https://images57.fotki.com/v1613/photos/4/48802/198779/5_1of1-vi.jpg

[dransy]

Yeah my head unit is after market its jvc can't remember what model .


Like I say I don't wanna go wild just something better than the original ones car is a 2000 Citroën. Xsara

I like my music loud but don't drive the car enough to spend loads .
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Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles

[Daimo]

Right, well you head unit will probably have a 50x4 (or 60x4 etc) output. That means the head unit can do a peak of 50watts in 4 channels.

So, realistically, unless your wanting to put an amp in to beef up the power, you do not need any more powerfull speakers than the head unit can provide power to. But generally, low end speakers dont cost much and arn't worth upgrading too over standards.

I.E. If you look at a seat of 6.5" speakers, that have a 100w output, then those speakers are more powerfull than the head unit can put out anyway.

RMS power is the one to look at. All the boxes usually have a big wattage figure. But don't be fooled, this is just the peak output, a short sharp burst of power.

RMS is continuous power. So if I have a speaker that has the following speaks

200w
RMS 100w

This means the speaker can continuously run 100w of power all the time, with a brief burst up to 200w

Long story cut short......


Look for some good spec 100w, 60w RMS speakers, to run off your head unit. I'd do a search for a car audio forum (caraudiodirect was a good one, if its still there? Been a few years).

You shouldn't need to spend too much as you simply wont have the power to run them properly. Not without upgrading to an amp.





My personnal choice in your situation.

Leave the front speakers. Turn the bass right down, and work on mid/treble tuning on your head unit. They should be enough for the moment.

Get a small power amp, a small sub, and install off the pre-out off your head unit. A couple of RCA leads, a power lead (and fuse) to the battery for the amp, and sub in the boot.

Bass is mutli-directional, the background fill would be enough. Then you have your fronts (with no bass, as its not needed as you have the sub) which provide mid and treble.

IMO, just upgrading the fronts without extra power from an amp isn't worth your time/money. Go with the small sub and amp, and run no bass through the fronts

Otherwise, it gets complicated

https://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/48802/245463/ICEWiringLayout-vi.jpg

[The Tot]

I've been trying to dig up responses and opinions regarding underseat powered subwoofers - 8" jobbies. I value my boot space since I quite frequently shove my guitars in there so a sub is out of the question. I want, as you guys quite rightly pointed out, to dedicate my 6" jobbies to handle the midrange and highs and anything less than 120 hz to be handled by the amped sub. What's your opinions? Besides, since the woofer is actually mounted in the cabin, then it'll probably have a better effect than being in the boot.
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[defblade]

[The Tot]

My only main query is with the wiring of those things. Because they come with an integrated loom that requires the 12V supply to be wired to any accessory socket in the interior fuse box, I want to know what supply (10A) to tap into. Kenwood/Pioneer, it matters not, none of them have provisions to wire directly to the battery. So I just need clarification on this.

I've got the RCA outlets from the back of the HU to cater for the signal.

Either way, it'll certainly help with the clarity of my sound. Not bothered about sound pressure levels. It's just that when I want to hear screaming death metal, I want to make sure that the double bass punches nicely as well as having the flexibility of providing screaming leads. I'd also appreciate some mids for the vocals too.

Sort me out with that one and i'll order one with my next pay cheque.
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[defblade]

[Daimo]

[The Tot]

thump thump is indeed what I will need. Taking the seat out should be no biggie however. The reason why i would also object to a stealth setup is how I drive and particularly if you have pointy or sharp edged objects in your boot! I don't want my cones to be perforated by my storage boxes as it slides everywhere!
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[Daimo]

You can also buy plastic grates/covers that fit over the front of the sub to stop it being damaged.

As I say, the only issue with under seat setup I think will be space. You need to box the sub to make use, and I just dont think there will be enough room under the seat.

Deffo stick with either an 8" or 10" then. Personnally, i'd go with a 10", i've had 8"s and whilst the thump was good, it was all it was good for. 10" gives you a bit more flex in overall sound. Its why 10"s and 12"s are so popular.

[st3v3]

Quick bump rather than start an new thread...

Learnt some things so far, but since I'm learning in the audio components dept, I wanted to ask:

I got a JVC pop-off, stock set of 5" front door speakers and it worked nicely, filled the car with sounds but not OTT.

I got a sub box a while ago, (maybe 6 months) but never touched it and now I want to test it, there's no amp and since the unit drives the front speakers I do questoin why i need an amp for it?

I pluged it in, directly, so the sub in the boot is wired to the white and red auio sockets on the back of the HU but it doesn't work.. the speaker is fine, no damage and the setup of the sub is simple; wire from speaker to terminals of the box.

Where have I gone wrong (was it not installing an amp?) and what am i doing to fix it and get the new tarty part working?
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Roger wrote: Women don't get damp for clingy puppies. Get some better happy pills, hit the gym & buy a medallion the size of a dinner plate. Job done

[Davo]

[st3v3]

.. maybe..


My dad's a dab hand at it, but i wanted to learn it myself, i can't rely on him for electricals forever.

Such a simple bit of stuff, is so much work.
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Roger wrote: Women don't get damp for clingy puppies. Get some better happy pills, hit the gym & buy a medallion the size of a dinner plate. Job done