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changing fork seals any recommendations?

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biker58
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Joined: 31 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: changing fork seals any recommendations? Reply with quote

My GSX600F is in pretty good condition but i have decided to get a few things done on it just to be safe, in a couple of weeks i will attempt to change the fork seals.

I will get myself a guide to work from and take my time so i dont have any disasters.

Just to get me started what tools will i need?

Will a Haynes manual be sufficient for the job?

How do i know what oil to replace?

Thanks
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

pretty easy job,
you'll need either a allen key set of socket to undo the bottom bolt,

and all the tools needed to remove the wheel and the forks from the clamps,
as for oil, 15w is normally standard, i tend to go for a heavier oil as im a bit heavier, a 20w or 25w
up to you really,
the haynes should cover everything
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biker58
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
pretty easy job,
you'll need either a allen key set of socket to undo the bottom bolt,

and all the tools needed to remove the wheel and the forks from the clamps,
as for oil, 15w is normally standard, i tend to go for a heavier oil as im a bit heavier, a 20w or 25w
up to you really,
the haynes should cover everything


Thanks for the good fast reply!
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SuzukiTom
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

losen the caps and all that jaz beofre you unclamp the forks.....make life a bit easier!

have a bucket ready, its a messy job.......if your anything like me
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are your fork seals actually knackered?
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biker58
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
Are your fork seals actually knackered?


One is looking a bit worse for wear although there is no problem with it at the moment. Just thought would be a good idea to replace them as it's a new bike and i'm not sure when they were last done anyway.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crack the top nuts as mentioned, just a 1/4 turn will do then slacken and remove the allen headed bolt hidden right underneath each fork leg. These hold the damper tube inside the legs and if you don't take them out when the insides still all under compression it can be a right pig to do without the special tool.
Unscrew them fully and take them out don't just "slacken" them as the Haynes says otherwise it can just spin when the rest is undone and again be a right pig.
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