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Stuck Engine Bolt

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Chriss
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Stuck Engine Bolt Reply with quote

Hi all,

I've got a stuck engine bolt on my K3 GS500e. The bolt itself is siezed. I can get the nut off, but when I tried to remove the bolt, the head just sheered off.

Has anyone got any ideas as to how I can remove the rest of this bolt, short of dropping the engine out and hitting it with a hammer?

Thanks

https://img847.imageshack.us/img847/2504/imag0810g.jpg
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Re: Stuck Engine Bolt Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
Hi all,

I've got a stuck engine bolt on my K3 GS500e. The bolt itself is siezed. I can get the nut out, but when I tried to remove the bolt, the head just sheered off.

Has anyone got any ideas as to how I can remove the rest of this bolt, short of dropping the engine out and hitting it with a hammer?

Thanks

https://img847.imageshack.us/img847/2504/imag0810g.jpg


Have you tried taking the shear pressure off of the bolt by placing a jack under the engine? The next thing I might try is if possible try to cut a slot in the remainder of the bolt with a dremel or similar to see if I can get a large screwdriver in there. Otherwise the next step would be to try easy outs or something (often called 'reverse taps') and then the next step after that would be to drill it out.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Support the engine with a jack and try to punch it out with a hammer and your least fave screwdriver?

My dad has an old rasp file with a broken end for jobs like this Laughing


Upon reading MarJays post... does the screw thread through the engine or does the nut just do up on the threaded area? I cant recall on my GS500 whether it was a long threaded bolt...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to remove a Hornet one like this a couple of weeks ago. Only way to shift it was drill an 8mm hole down the middle.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Re: Stuck Engine Bolt Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Otherwise the next step would be to try easy outs or something (often called 'reverse taps') and then the next step after that would be to drill it out.



Don't use easy outs.

If it is corroded in tight enough to shear the head off of what looks to be a rather sizeable diameter engine bolt it is going to snap a brittle easy out, leaving a piece of VERY hard HSS steel in the stuck bolt.
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put a jack under the engine anyway to try and make it easier to get the bolt off. The jack is still there.

Paddy, here's a picture of the fische, which may answer you question, since I didn't understand it Laughing

https://img856.imageshack.us/img856/3528/gs500enginebolt.png

Upon looking again, the bolt's sheered half way through the frame, so I cannot get at it to dremmel and the engine wouldn't drop anyway.

Have tried hitting with a hammer and screw drive with no joy, literally. My poor hand. Embarassed

Pete. When you say drill the engine bolt, I'd be worried about not getting it perfect and making the hole oval. Also, it'd have to be a hell of a size drill bit to go all the way through. Sad
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bigger hammer Laughing Park the bike against a wall and jack the engine up a little. Dont worry about the bike falling as its against the wall, just fuck that bolt and give him some serious stick Laughing
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Bigger hammer Laughing


Will you hold the screw driver for me whilst I hit it? Wub
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
##Paddy## wrote:
Bigger hammer Laughing


Will you hold the screw driver for me whilst I hit it? Wub


Drill a hole just big enough for half the driver to sit in there and then smash it silly. Could try hitting from both sides also
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks bent to me from your picture.

You might be able to get a junior hacksaw between the engine lug and the spacer (part #28) and cut the bolt into three bits. Then you're just left with the bit in the engine lug (which is probably where it's seized).

A 50:50 mix of ATF and paraffin makes a good penetrating fluid.

A proper drift or a long bolt is better than a screwdriver. Make sure the face of it is filed perfectly square so you can do maximum whaling.

Had a similar problem with my mainstand bolt on the VFR and landed up drilling the bugger out in the end.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

To add to the suggestions above, if the nut is in reasonable condition put it back on (possibly with a washer or 2 underneath as spacers) and tighten it up hard. Hopefully there is enough thread for it to pull the bolt across slightly. However it might well just strip the thread on the nut.

Probably worth using decent penetrating fluid (ie, not WD40), plus heat (blowtorch) and cold (freeze spray) to try and free things off a bit first.

All the best

Keith
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great. My super reliable transport to get me to university is fucked.

I've tried drilling it, but it's made a small indentation where the drill is now it just spins, not going any deeper.

I've tried hacksawing it, but whatever cheap crap this is made from is pretty damn tough, breaking five hacksaw blades. Probably got more to do with the stupid angle I'm working at though.

Used Plus Gas, Freeze and Release and a blow torch, which set the bike alight for a second, which made me laugh, until it stopped burning. Sad

Can I just add, when Hyosung claim they make parts for Suzuki, I believe them Exclamation

What's caused all this is moving engine bars from a 1994 GS500 onto a 2003 GS500. The 1994 saw more of winter than the 2003 one, but any such problems? Oh no!

Anyone near Harrow fix this for me? Sad
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:

I've tried drilling it, but it's made a small indentation where the drill is now it just spins, not going any deeper.

I've tried hacksawing it, but whatever cheap crap this is made from is pretty damn tough, breaking five hacksaw blades. Probably got more to do with the stupid angle I'm working at though.




Sounds like you have work hardened the bolt by it getting too hot during drilling, you'll need a better drill bit to get through it now, something like a cobalt bit will chew through it like playdough. Use something to lube and cool it too - wd40 will do.

As for the hacksaw, are you using good bimetallic blades or the cheapo ones that come free with a c.£2 draper value hacksaw?

Drilling it out in situ will be tricky as it is so long and there are frame and spacers in the way. I'd try and cut the bolt both sides (possibly sacrificing the spacers) and lower the engine out to reduce the depth of drilling and improve access. Also gives you more space to work.
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the exact drill bit I bought and these are the hacksaw blades that I have.

I've no idea as to what either are made of.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
This is the exact drill bit I bought and these are the hacksaw blades that I have.

I've no idea as to what either are made of.



That HSS drill bit would have been fine if it was cooled, done in short batches of drilling etc etc but it sounds very very much like you have dulled it and hardened the bolt through heat in which case it will no longer be much use.

Those hacksaw blades on the other hand are shit.

Do you have a dremel or grinder? Can you fit a full size hacksaw in?
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tatters
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PostPosted: 15:31 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the bike rideable? and do you have a replacment bolt?

If so let me know and bring it over to my workshop and l,ll get it out, owe you a favour for getting that KLR part for me. Razz
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sadly this is a very common problem with Oriental bikes, questionable steel and shite zinc-based alloy + a few British winters and this is what you get. The only real answer is get the engine out and get drilling. Avoid brute force if you can as it's not unknown for a chunk of crankcase to come flying off and then you're totally phukt. A bloke I knew knocked the complete front engine mount plus a big lump of crankcase off a 250RS. Basically, cheap materials good enough for the expected 'life' of the bike, which is a lot shorter than you'd imagine, and no longer.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i suspect that hitting it with a hammer will not work. use a decent drill bit and drill very slowly spraying WD-40 on it every 10/20 seconds. using a fluid to cool and lubricate the metal is essential. if you don't have any WD-40, get some, will make your job 100x easier.
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

tatters wrote:
Is the bike rideable?


Very kind of you to offer. I'm not entirely sure if it's ridable to be honest. I don't want to cause any damage to the other engine bolts with this one not fastened.

I've yet to get the replacement parts either. Will get them ordered now.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
Very kind of you to offer. I'm not entirely sure if it's ridable to be honest. I don't want to cause any damage to the other engine bolts with this one not fastened.

I've yet to get the replacement parts either. Will get them ordered now.


I've ridden with 2 engine bolts out of 5 attached.

Given thats your main rear? one, its not all the way out and its seized in there anyway, i'd still ride it. Thumbs Up
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Given thats your main rear? one, its not all the way out and its seized in there anyway, i'd still ride it. Thumbs Up


Front, if it makes any difference.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
Front, if it makes any difference.


How many more are holding the engine in? Im sure you'll be fine to ride over. If not, it will work the bolt loose... solve the problem either way Laughing
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
How many more are holding the engine in? Im sure you'll be fine to ride over. If not, it will work the bolt loose... solve the problem either way Laughing


I count two. I'm not fussed about the engine falling out or anything extreme like that, just worried the other two will bend slightly, making them impossible to remove....
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Grubby
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use plus gas, lots of it & find someone like me works in the aerospace industry who has access to a 7X rivet gun. It'll scare the bolt out just by walking towards the bike with it. Shocked
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where the bolt is now its not going to go anywhere by riding the bike. Riding the bike won't do any harm... Just take it easy.
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