Optimate 4, any good? + Queries

[demon9374]

Looking at some reviews, but do any of you guys use them? Any good?

7 week ago I got hit by a car and my insurance have had my bike all that time whilst lending me a scooter. Anyhow from my understanding, it got fixed on week 6, so it's been stood I bet all that time without a charge/being ran.

(RS 125 I'm talking about).

Anyhow, since getting it back, I've had nothing but starting problems. This morning I went to start her up to go work, button did nothing, then a tiny bit of life, but didn't start, so had to bump start. My daily work commute is about 24 miles, guessing not enough for the rectifier to charge it fully, but it doesn't top it up enough for when I finish my 2 hour shifts and come home, albeit the starting sounds very weak, but does start atleast, so as I said, I'm guessing after getting to work, there's enough charge for coming back home, but after a night of no use it's just dead basically, although (as inaccurate as they are) the display shows 11-12v so it's not completely flat..

So yeah, thinking of getting one of these chargers, would you recommend them? Before they took the bike, she started first time everytime perfectly, so I doubt the start motor has gone as all it's probably done is sat there in the workshop for 6 week which leads me to believe the battery has lost some charge.

On the topic of charging, I'm thinking of selling the bike, they're too much hassle for me and getting a 4 stroke YZF R125, would I be best off keeping the charger or selling it on with the RS?.. Does the YZF need to be frequently run to keep a good charge?

[Polarbear]

I would say, presuming the charging circuit is OK, you battery is goosed. You would be better getting a new one before an optimate. Knackered batteries cause all sorts of wonderful problems with modern bike electronics.
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[demon9374]

[swampy]

I agree with battery being goosed.

I would expect it to be charged over a 24 mile ride to at least a point where it would start 2 hours later (the engine would barely have cooled by then). Have you got a multi meter ? Could be worth checking the state of play with that rather than forking out on a charger...
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"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." Hunter S Thompson
"Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death..." Hunter S Thompson

[demon9374]

[johnsmith222]

[J4mes]

It'll have a symbol like this on it normally

https://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQAwbEj3BD10sqcEElUCufLuJuWde4xIFYBArkUzrA_EE0uFlod0h3unRrd

Measure the battery while you turn the starter over, this will give you a true representation of the condition of the battery.

[jimspeed]

maybe someone at the repair place needed a battery it happens especially if its been sat there for 6 weeks in a corner of the yard.

I have a ring smart charger which cost £24 i think and can be left permanently connected etc.
A car charger will be ok just set it on the lowest setting and don't leave it connected all night unless its a smart type.
I would sort it sooner rather than later as you are putting a lot of strain in the charging system with a completly flat battery (plus its having to run lights etc too).
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"

[demon9374]

Cheers, will go down tomorrow & have a ganders at it.

Again although the display isn't accurate, whilst riding the volt reading shoots down to 12-13 from 14.3 when I either use brakes or put lights on, not sure if that's right or not. Eitherway I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Whilst I'm here, is it called Redex? It's on offer in Wilkinsons, cleans fuel, carbs etc, dunno if it's worth picking any up, says add half to 50 ltrs of fuel, so I'm guessing I only want to use the tiniest smidge, was only thinking about it as bike is alittle boggy setting off at the lights, have to pump clutch and feather the throttle abit unless I get above low rpm. Could be jets etc, but I thought I could save hassle & see if this Redex would clean em out for me, think it's £2.47 down from £4.95

Again though, if I got a new battery, would I not need a charger still anyways? If so, wouldn't it be best getting the charger, seeing if it sorts my current battery out before buying a new battery first?

Edit, from memory, although it was quite some time ago, it looked liek this one..

https://www.tecpel.com/Multimeters/Dmm_80072.JPG

I'm guessing top right quarter "V" and set to 20? Providing it's the same and has not other values between 12 & 20, also set to DC, if it has that option that is.

[swampy]

[demon9374]

[jimspeed]

Ok I'm guessing a bit here, your bike has a volts display on the dash yea ?
whats happening is the charging system is just about managing to get the power up to 14.2 (good) then you are adding an extra 21w of load (the brake light bulb) which is then dropping the voltage down as the alt cannot try to charge the battery AND run the lights and brake light. sounds like the battery is knackered to me really if its that bad but yea a charger would be handy anyway as you said a new battery will be flat too.
REDEX , I dont think I would be happy running it thru a 2 stroke to be honest and you may find that sorting the battery problem will sort the flat spot too as there is more electrical power to run the coil etc.
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"

[demon9374]

[demon9374]