What should you expect from a rear drum brake on a 125?

EazyDuz · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Karma :

Marauder in my case.
I dont know if its me being paranoid or the back brake just isnt very good.
Me and Tef removed the drum and the brake pads themselves have plenty of life so i can rule that out.
Here is the problem. If i change the position of the brake actuator to the left (or clockwise on the spindle) the brake will bite sooner. But say if i set the actuator and the brake adjustment screw on the cable itself so its set up with no pedal slack, and i press the brake pedal, i dont get much strength from the brakes.
They work but i can push the pedal about 80% down and in that 80% there is some power, but the last 20% is where most of the brake power comes from, but thats with me pushing down on the pedal quite hard.
I cant screw the adjustment screw any further because if i do the brakes start to bite. I tested this when the bike was on axle stands and i can feel when i roll the wheel freely that they do start to bite, i probably wouldnt notice if the wheel was on the ground though. Is that how you should judge it? Because i dont want them biting slightly all the time while im riding, ill lose power and wear the pads out...

Is that just how drum brakes are? Or should they instantly be able to lock the back wheel if you press firmly on the pedal? Because mine just doesnt...

Thanks

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

Yes.

I adjusted it up for you how it OUGHT to be; Ie very small movement before they bite, then rest of pedal actually applying pressure.

BUT you diddn't like the feel, and had me back it off, as you like it more progressive. trouble is that means that the lever is working in a more perverse portion of travel, where the leverage is against you.

The 'problem' is the erganomics of your bike, and where the (bent) brake pedal sits, that we didn't have time to look at.

Messing about with the lever, getting the 'stop' set right, and bending the actual pedal to a more useful possition for YOUR erganomics is where you need to start.

THEN you can return to the cable & arm and set that up so it starts 'biting' early in travel with the lever ratio decreasing so more pedal movement gives less pad travel and more force.....

PS: I got a half garbled txt message off you on my 'phone today, when I checked it and found that the wall socket the charger is in is 'duff'..... said 'text missing' and something about £80 for a Pirelli Tyre?!? Thought you had that fitted, before you got the wheel straightened? There was something about tappets too?

If you want to pop over and play spanners; you are welcome; I have plans for tomorrow though, and my kids next weekend so it will have to be in the week.

Snowie has a big crow bar and a hammer; sure she'd LOVE to assist 'straightening' your brake pedal Wink

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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

Shielder · Renault 5 Driver Joined: 27 Sep 2011 Karma :

My back brake is pants too. Came in very handy on the Mod 1, no way in hell I was going to be able to skid with that! It does work, but you have to really press hard on it.

If you're anything like me, most of the braking is done on the front anyway (don't tell me CBT instructor though!) it's only when you are really going slowly that you need to use it I reckon.

Andy
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CBT - 22/10/08 & 30/5/11, Theory - 13/06/11, Mod 1 - 26/9/11, Mod 2 - 29/9/11
'00 Suzuki Intruder VL 125 (06/06/09 - now)

EazyDuz · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Karma :

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

EazyDuz · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Karma :

But that is how i set mine up today but it didnt have the same affect as when you did it. I set the brake adjustment screw so tight that it was about 1 turn away from biting the brakes, so therefore any force on the lever should engage the brakes to some extent, but even set up like that i could still push the lever quite far down with minimal braking...

So you are saying when you set them really strong, the actuator was set at around 7 o'clock? Well mine right now is set between 6 and 7 oclock and then adjusted using the cable screw so with no brakes applied it is at about 6 o'clock, adjusted any tighter and the brakes engage slightly, but even then, if i push the pedal down i dont get all that much brake power, why?

Also i'll be lost without Snowie the sat nav :/