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Bandit hard to start

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hazza
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 18 Oct 2011    Post subject: Bandit hard to start Reply with quote

Hi,

This morning my bandit was really hard to start. It was very cold this morning and with the choke fully on and hitting the starter button it was firing but not enough to allow the engine to run without me pressing the button. It must have took a good couple of minutes to get the thing going this morning but once started was as normal. I dont want the bike to start playing these games as the mornings get colder. I had a couple of thoughts. A. re fit the baffle in the exhaust- maybe slightly too lean so full choke isnt effective enough? B. Battery.


Any input appreciated.

Harry
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spyuggy
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 18 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your plugs, they will tell you if you are running lean or rich, when did you last change them?
Are you parked in a damp place?
Do you have a hap over it?
This could make the difference.
Best of luck with it mate.
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hazza
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PostPosted: 06:27 - 19 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I changed the plugs about two months ago-2000 miles or so. Once its going its as normal. It did the same this morning, although it didnt take as much to get it going but it wasnt as cold. Its always parked under one of those motorcycle tents they sell on ebay and the bike never appears to be damp when i take it out. Think it could be the battery? being as it happens when its cold? It started up fine after work about 5 pm last night.

Thanks for your help

Harry
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)
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Moxey
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 19 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could try adjusting the A/F or pilot screws a wee bit to make it a little richer (helps for cold starting) shouldn't cause too much harm other than some carbon deposits and lower mpg.

Mine was running a little rich before I took it off the road last week for the MZ and always started first push of the button with full choke.

If I remember correctly the further out the screws are the richer the mixture if you want to try (haynes recommended is 1 7/8 turns out as a guide), I advise checking the plugs after to make sure it isn't too rich.

Careful with the screws as well they can round off pretty easy and sometimes can be seized (wd40 or plusgas)
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 19 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

could very well be the battery. You can pick up trickle chargers very cheaply off fleabay etc and keep it topped up overnight. Or a new battery.

also give all the leads and caps a good blast of wd40. new sparkplugs can help too if they are of unknown age.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 20 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the colder mornings the oil is quite thick and so the starter motor has a lot more to do.I use an Optimate https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dsports&field-keywords=optimate+3+sp&x=0&y=0 on several of my bikes and these work wonders.
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hazza
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PostPosted: 06:32 - 20 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I was having a bit of a backfire too this morning along with the said symptoms so im assuming its flooding? There is a slight smell of petrol under my bike tent in the morning as there has ALWAYS been, i just put that down to me putting the bike in there while still hot from a ride and the fumes being trapped under the cover. I guess i will know more tonight when i whip the plugs out, didnt get home until after dark last night and i dont have the luxury of a garage. Im more leaning toward a fuelling issue now, perhaps the choke not fully engaging. Ill clean the plugs, spray some wd on the caps maybe even cut down the ht and re-seat them.

Thanks for the input, i will report back tomorrow when the issue will no doubt show itself again!

Harry
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Moxey
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 20 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If theres a smell of petrol then sounds like flooding, check the aribox and see if theres a puddle of fuel in it, could be the vacuum tap has failed and just allowing fuel straight through all the time, or perhaps the float heights but if it was fine before I doubt they would suddenly go but might be worth considering.

Also when starting with choke you don't touch the throttle do you? Made the mistake of using full choke and twisting the throttle abit a few times, can flood the engine and spoil the plugs they never work too well after been soaked in petrol even fairly new plugs.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 21 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 on the tap.

may be worth having the carbs off to check the state of the floats and float valve needles as these can cause flooding.
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hazza
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PostPosted: 07:05 - 21 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its only a very slight fuel smell, not much at all but i wil have a look. Last night i checked the plugs, the electrodes looked the same as they did when i put them in 2 months ago, just with a bit of coffee brown deposits. I sprayed wd40 in the plug caps and also adjusted the choke cable. the choke wasn't opening fully, it still had a few mil of movement to go. This morning it started up great and the choke now seems to raise the revs a fair bit more than previously. Time will tell if the choke has solved the problem, as it wasnt very cold this morning.

With regards to the valve needles could this cause the issue i get with the bike getting jerky at very slight throttle. Its always been like this.

Ta

Harry
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)
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Moxey
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 21 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its stuttering when opening throttle could be a few things.....

Most likely is carb balance, can be done with vacuum gauges (cheap ones of the bay are about £35 decent are Morgan at £70), a phillips screwdriver and knowing where the flap adjustment screws are (think theres a video on youtube demoing how to).

Failing that could be stiff throttle cable, bit of 3 in 1 oil on the cables might free them up Question

Needles and jets do wear with time, often idle fluctuates and delay in fuelling can happen, cost about £90 for new set from the usa never seen any for sale in uk (probably cheaper getting used set of carbs off of the bay)

If the problems not to bad then don't see any harm in just putting up with it, gives the bike character doesn't it Razz
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 05:32 - 22 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like a good excuse to fit trick a new set of trick flatslide carbies.

RS36 or 38 mikunis work very well on those motors Wink
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