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How to remove downpipe bolts?

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EazyDuz
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Joined: 11 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: How to remove downpipe bolts? Reply with quote
As on my bike the heads on them are rounded so you cant grip them

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gz125-1999-x_model13795/partslist/FIG11.html

On the engine side. Just need to know as i might be replacing the exhaust soon but on some GZ125's its one unit rather than a seperate muffler and downpipe.
Thanks
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
Confused WTF is that link?

As for removing rounded off exhaust bolts.
I had a similar issue and had to resort to cutting a new slot into the top with a Dremel, then soaking the area with diesel for a week, before using a well fitting large flat bit onto a socket (for leverage) to turn it.
luckily for me the stud let go, but because of the consant heat exhaust studs are exposed to, thier meturaligy changes and they can become brittle.
So I would suggest that using an impact driver is your very last resort.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
No i mean the head on the bolt is round anyway, but i think its an allen shape in the centre, couldnt tell because its dark and rusty.
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
Do a search for for "Irwin 5 Piece Bolt Grip Set". They are a type of extractor that will grip rounded nuts and can be used with a spanner or a socket. If you decide to buy a set look at the "expansion set" as this has more sizes useful to motorbike work. If you have a local Machine Mart they should stock them.

You will have most chance of sucess if you use some penetrating oil on the studs (daily) for a week before you try to undo the nuts. A good bit of heat on them will also improve your chances of getting the nuts off without snapping the studs. As Pepperami has pointed out the studs will be very brittle........

Good luck

ZD

P.S. the extractors mentioned will also grip the outside of the head of an allen head socket screw, depending on the size of the head of the screw
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
what would happen if the head snapped off flush so you cant grip the thread to remove it?
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
EazyDuz wrote:
what would happen if the head snapped off flush so you cant grip the thread to remove it?


Spark eroder and plenty of hassle & cash Crying or Very sad
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
EazyDuz wrote:
what would happen if the head snapped off flush so you cant grip the thread to remove it?


Take the head off, take it to a engineering place and get them to drill out the stud and rethread the hole?
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
Noxious89123 wrote:
Take the head off, take it to a engineering place and get them to drill out the stud and rethread the hole?


You'd be very lucky if you managed to keep the thread.

I had a rocker cover bolt sheared in the head of a crf 450 I was given the joyful task of drilling. It was easy to get the drill square etc but just was impossible to actually keep the drill square with the shite surface where the bolt had snapped.

I probably could have put it on a mill with a 6mm bit, and squared off the top, then drilled a pilot hole, drilled the 5mm hole and re tapped it to an M6 if I'd really wanted to.

In the end I just ended up drilling it out at 6mm as it was the only drill that would stay square and fitted a helicoil.

I can't imagine the hassle it would be trying to tackle exhaust studs that. Something I'd really rather not face if possible and if it did happen it would almost certainly be cheaper to buy a new head on a bike like this.

Anyways back to the op, you just need to see what the bolt needs and hope and pray they come off or out. If they do snap, then fingers crossed you do get left with some of the bolt some you can get a stud extractor on them (which do work well). Post a pic maybe?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 07 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
Suzuki usually use M8 allen head bolts for the headers, if it is then the best method when the hex is rounded off is.....soak it in Plusgas over a day or two, apply some heat with a blowlamp before getting a 12mm multipoint socket and hammering it over the bolt head, attach an extension and ratchet and undo. It'll come out this way or will rip the head off, either way you might as well try it as it's got a good success rate.
12mm socket is the spot on size to get over and grip an M8 allen bolt head, just make sure it's a multipoint/12 point one not a 6 sided one. 3/8ths" drive is best if you've got access for it. The Plusgas, heat and hammering all help to loosen it.
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Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Johnser
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 19 May 2011
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
EazyDuz wrote:
what would happen if the head snapped off flush so you cant grip the thread to remove it?


The above replies can work but in my opinion by far the easiest, cheapest and safest (in terms of chances of keeping the threads intact) for the home mechanic is with a welder.

weld onto the sheared face of the stud with a high heat, keep blobbing onto the stud until you build up the protrusion. I generally keep blobbing on until I have made a "T" shaped bit that you can then grab with a pair of mole grips.

Twist the stud out carefully. Lots of penetrating oil (in between weld blobs if you like - it cools and contracts the stud as well helping to loosen) work it out back and forth carefully. If you feel it "give" a little and just go to wind it all the way out, chances are it'll grip and you'll shear it off again. once welded, the metal of the stud is significantly more prone to shearing. no worries if it does though... just try again!

You might be worried you'll weld the head to the stud. its actually surprisingly difficult to do this as generally heads are ali and studs steel. easy to tell if you do slip and attache the two though - you can see the glowing red hot stud loose its heat (colour) much faster as the heat conducts through the head.

I have had 100% success rate with this method; bike heads, car heads, brake calipers, brake bleed nipples, rusted car wing bolts, sheared tractor wheel studs.....e.t.c usually takes less than 10mins

Oh, and if you're doing a head be sure not to let any weld detritus into the engine!
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D O G
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
Welding is always put forward as a solution - but I think the number of people who both have a welder and can weld effectively is pretty damn small.
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Johnser
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote
D O G wrote:
Welding is always put forward as a solution - but I think the number of people who both have a welder and can weld effectively is pretty damn small.


fair enough, I'm generally involved with classic car stuff where it's pretty well mandatory to have a welder if you drive anything on british roads. I guess if you have a bike - even an old bike you can get away without welding too much!

Still, its not that hard, I'm by no means an expert welder and compared to welding very thin steel, or aluminium, it's really easy I promise.
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