How to drill out fairing stud or other solution

[Ericck]

Following on from yesterdays post, firstly thanks for all the advice as I have got out all the studs bar one stubborn pig.

Can't cut a slit in it and use a screwdriver as it is in a recess. Have tried banging in a torx bit but plastic fairing so don't want to hit it any harder.

Head is even now more rounded due to todays efforts. The stud is a round head with an allen key recess in the middle. I have heard you can drill these things out, have a drill and can buy a bit but don't really know how to go about it.

Obviously don't want to split or melt the fairing, so is it just a case of drilling down the middle of the stud?

Anyone done this who could give me advice, much appreciated.
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Current Bike: 2004 Suzuki Bandit 600S
Previous Bikes: Yamaha FS1E, Mobylette Moped Thingy, Suzuki GS125, Kawasaki Zephyr 550, Kawasaki Zephyr 750, Kawasaki ER500, Suzuki Bandit 600, Honda CBR600F, Triumph Street Triple 675, Suzuki V Strom 650, Suzuki Bandit 1200, Suzuki SV650N, Honda CB500F.

[P.]

Dont suppose you are as lucky as me and can get to the back of the bolt itself? I can get to a few fairing bolts from the back and use long nose pliers and twist them out that way.

[Ericck]

No unfortunately the stuck stud is attached to the maintenance panel which in turn is attached to the fairing. Got the maintenance panel off the other side which enabled me to get at a few studs on that side from the back.
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Current Bike: 2004 Suzuki Bandit 600S
Previous Bikes: Yamaha FS1E, Mobylette Moped Thingy, Suzuki GS125, Kawasaki Zephyr 550, Kawasaki Zephyr 750, Kawasaki ER500, Suzuki Bandit 600, Honda CBR600F, Triumph Street Triple 675, Suzuki V Strom 650, Suzuki Bandit 1200, Suzuki SV650N, Honda CB500F.

[nowhere.elysium]

[nightshaddow]

[Rogerborg]

Whoa, whoa, before you try drilling right into the stud, first drill the head off. Little pilot hole in the centre, switch up to a bit that's as least as wide as the stud, and drill carefully just until the head separates.

Then you can get the fairing off, and there may be enough of the stud protruding that you can get some grips on it.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Ericck]

[Vincent]

If you drill that bolt, i reckon there's a good chance that it will melt the fairing. Is the bolt one of the wide rimmed ones. Do you have a pic? If it is, there might be another way.
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Space Is Deep

[Fisty]

[Ericck]

I am worried about drilling it but got to learn sometime. Did ask a mechanic on another forum how much but he said its £80 for a full service yep don't ask.

Anyway screwfix sell a screw extractor set thingy for less than £3 where you drill in a bit and insert the thingy and twist it out

So am hoping can use a small drill bit and try that. If not then already got pilot hole and then try to drill off the head as per Rogerborg.

If it looks like going pear shaped then I will stop. Will use plenty of WD40 when drilling.

If I can't do it I will post a picture tomorrow as bike is not at house so can't take picture tonight.

Thanks for all the advice, people can really benefit from these forums, gives me ideas I would never have thought of and saves paying £80 for a full service when you need a screw drilling
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Current Bike: 2004 Suzuki Bandit 600S
Previous Bikes: Yamaha FS1E, Mobylette Moped Thingy, Suzuki GS125, Kawasaki Zephyr 550, Kawasaki Zephyr 750, Kawasaki ER500, Suzuki Bandit 600, Honda CBR600F, Triumph Street Triple 675, Suzuki V Strom 650, Suzuki Bandit 1200, Suzuki SV650N, Honda CB500F.

[Vincent]

If you end up drilling it, try using a L/H, (reverse) drill. It might just bite and unscrew it.

Stud extractors can be a bit hit and miss.
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Space Is Deep

[Pete.]

A left-hand drill is a good idea. My opinion is that the biggest risk from drilling a fairing bolt in a recess is snapping the drill and gouging the fairing. Use several layers of masking tape on the fairing around the hole to afford some small protection. Masking tape is particularly useful if you layer it us as the tape bunches up if it's caught and the glue acts as a lubricant which might just save your paintwork.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Teflon-Mike]

DRILL SLOWLY
That's all there is to it.
Most drills these days are variable speed; so vary it, to the lowest setting, and dont push too hard, just let it take a sliver of metal off nice and gently, and if you can, get some-one to keep it cool with water, from a washing up licquid bottle or similar while you drill.
Or stop frequently, let it cool, squirt water on bit and bolt, and then do a bit more.
PATIENCE nearly always solves most problems.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[dodgydog]

If you're getting a drill from an engineering suppliers, such as BBS Fastnet or the like.
Get some Rocol cutting fluid too, cheap enough for a small bottle, a drop or two on the drill bit keeps it cool enough, aids cutting, and lengthens the life of your drill bits.
Also a set of £3 screw extractors will NEVER be any use, don't bother with them.

+ what Rogerborg said, the head of a fairing bolt will be off in seconds.

Dog


ps.
Get Plusgas while you're there, much better as a penetrating fluid than WD40.
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I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realise that what you heard is not exactly what I meant

[Ericck]

[nightshaddow]