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got my first welder :) sealey 160xt arc welder, help me haha

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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: got my first welder :) sealey 160xt arc welder, help me haha Reply with quote

basically i really need to learn to weld as im a motorcycle mechanic and time and time again im having to pay other people to do jobs for me

so the kind aunts and uncles got me one and all the appron healmet and gloves etc for my 21st which was a week ago

basically for a start i need some setup advice and also advice on good things to practice and learn

ive looked on youtube but fed up of the stupid american pointless videos

im using 2mm rods so what ampage do i need? and more importantly how do i calculate this for different rods etc?

many many thanks Smile
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Robby
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arc? Sell it and buy a MIG.

Then just fiddle with the settings until your welding sounds like sizzling bacon.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

asked for a mig and apparently this is better for what I want it for untill ive lernt quite well
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Robby
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume a salesman said that.

Mig is extremely simple, I bought one second hand off ebay as a hobby welder a few years ago. Hold metal together, weld, job done. No cocking around cleaning it up afterwards.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

nope not at all its what i was advised by a few proffesional welders
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming that the welder is running the correct voltage etc then roughly 70-80amps for 2mm should be good. I've seen some cheap welders that need to be set at 110amps for 2mm. Try and get some 1.5mm and run at 50-60 amps. To be fair the welder should be capable for basic repairs but you really need to look at MiG for a future upgrade.

Practise makes perfect and all that. I can weld two bits of 0.5mm with an arc welder but it would be my last choice.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advice marki

thats the overall plan, for now just learn and that doing basic jobs and then upgrade to a gassless mig at a later date. good idea?

got 40 2mm rods for 3.95 delivered and the post cost them 1.48 and then theres all the brown tape and stuff, they must buy these things for pennys lol
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not everyone rates gasless MIG but I really like them for practical work. The welds are not as pretty but I can weld outdoors without spending a fortune on gas.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

more than anything i just want to be able to do good strong welds, can make them look better with a little grinding and paint anyway Smile
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your welding bits of angle iron together then an arc welder is fine. Its the thin stuff, less than 3mm, that requires a bit more finesse. While I personally think that gas welding is the best starting point for gaining knowledge arc will certainly give you an understanding of weld pools and such like.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i shouldnt try welding anything thinner than 3mm then with a arc welder?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not saying that you shouldn't just that it's not easy. Most arc welders are very aggressive and will blow holes at the first opportunity. 3mm plus will dissipate some of the heat slowing the welding process down and making it easier for the novice to see what is going on.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 22 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats fine, i thought you where implying that you could never do less than 3mm think with a arc welder lol

was going to say id like to be able to do exhasts etc really
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done 2mm exhaust with an arc welder, but it's not pretty and it'll blow quicker than Lindsay Lohan trying to score a line of nose candy.

Arc will teach you to do it the hard (or the cheap) way, but there's really no call to go that route if you're intending to do it professionally.
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Okeydokey
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definetely learning with arc is cheap as chips, I used tons of angle to start with, and did the same kind of but joint, overlap time and time again.
I found... after a few days using a standard glass that the fast reaction blackout lens for the mask was priceless for learning, great long term investment, mine cost me £70 and gave me bucket loads more confidence and speeded up the whole process of learning significantly.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a quick reactin black out lens in my helmet so thats a good thing to know Smile
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bwprice100
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PostPosted: 15:06 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

.
Hi Micky

An arc welder is a good starting point for welding on a budget.

Limitations are:
Difficult to do thin stuff and a 15amp socket won't supply enough juice for really thick stuff.

Get hold of some scrap bits of steel and practice loads and cut some of your welds apart to see how good the penetration is.

Things not to do:
Weld any thing with galv on it, it gives off cyanide gas,
When welding any mechanical piece of kit be careful where you attach the earth as any tracking through bearings etc. can wreck them.

Keep your rods dry.

Tools needed:
Proper welding gloves,
Welders hat, they are like cotton baseball caps worn back to font and stop the top of your head and the back of your neck getting burnt.
Good non flammable overalls preferable cotton.
Chipping hammer,
Wire brush,
6" grinder,
Various welding clamps
Fire extinguisher (Lidls sell good ones)

If you wear glasses be prepared to get welding spatter on them. Even if you are wearing a welding helmet weld spatter can bounce around all over the place and ruin them.

Be aware of what can catch fire in the vicinity of what you are welding and keep an eye out. i have seen many people who have been happily welding away and have not been aware that the workshop is on fire behind them. You wont smell the smoke; better still have a mate with you, if possible.

Make sure no areas of skin are exposed as arc welding gives off serious amounts of ultraviolet light and gives a nasty sun burn; as well as causing long term health issues.

Warn others in the vicinity that you are about to strike an arc. You show that you are an experienced welder by saying 'EYES' in a firm voice before striking the arc. Arc eye is not a pleasant thing to have, believe me. A welding curtain may be worth considering.

To get the weld started it is a good idea to drag the welding rod across the work piece as this minimises the chance of the rod sticking to the work. if it still stick you could try increasing the amps. Most welders have a lump of metal to hand to test on before attacking the work piece.

I hope this is of some help Brian
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woll
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Arc? Sell it and buy a MIG.

Then just fiddle with the settings until your welding sounds like sizzling bacon.


If it sounds like bacon you ain't doing it right. Should just get the humming from the welder if it's set right.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

bwprice100 wrote:
Limitations are:
Difficult to do thin stuff and a 15amp socket won't supply enough juice for really thick stuff.
How thin do you think i can weld with a arc welder once ive got some good practice in?

Things not to do:
Weld any thing with galv on it, it gives off cyanide gas,
Also reguarding this should i just grind of the surface to expose bare un-galvanised metal underneath?

Tools needed:
Proper welding gloves,
Welders hat, they are like cotton baseball caps worn back to font and stop the top of your head and the back of your neck getting burnt.
Good non flammable overalls preferable cotton.
Chipping hammer,
Wire brush,
6" grinder, (ive got a 4.5inch with a quick release guard, really handy for changing the angle of the guard quick to get into difficult areas etc. I pressume this will be surfice?)
Various welding clamps (Got any suggestions? this is the only thing i dont have atm)
Fire extinguisher (Lidls sell good ones)

To get the weld started it is a good idea to drag the welding rod across the work piece as this minimises the chance of the rod sticking to the work. if it still stick you could try increasing the amps. Most welders have a lump of metal to hand to test on before attacking the work piece. (Will certainly bare this in mind mate Smile)


Hi brian ive quoted what you said above and added in my questions in bold mate, if youd be kind enough to read it through and answer them. If you could give me anymore setup advice then that would be great help also. Ive only got 2mm rods atm so thats what ill be starting out with Smile

Thanks Mike
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Gothtec
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okeydokey wrote:
Definetely learning with arc is cheap as chips, I used tons of angle to start with, and did the same kind of but joint, overlap time and time again.


I have to agree, arc is the one that cheapest to learn but hardest to master...

I've found that you practice and learn (there are some old books out there that are brilliant - 1950s old). All of a sudden it will just click and you'll lay down your first perfect weld... then spend the rest of the week trying to do it again...

On tip - Welders eye is horrid and painful so be carefull Thumbs Up
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bwprice100
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

How thin do you think I can weld with a arc welder once I’ve got some good practice in?

1.6mm is feasible after practice 1mm can be done but preparation of the joint is the key; for example a bent up lip on each edge to artificially raise the metal thickness.

Weld any thing with galv on it; it gives off cyanide gas,
Also regarding this should I just grind of the surface to expose bare un-galvanised metal underneath?

Yes but make sure it has all gone and well past the area you are going to weld. If you get exposed but always seek medical advice. It fucks your lungs up badly.

6" grinder
I’ve got a 4.5inch with a quick release guard, really handy for changing the angle of the guard quick to get into difficult areas etc. I presume this will be suffice?

Yes fine, the bigger one is handy for cutting notches out of things.

Various welding clamps.
Got any suggestions? this is the only thing I don’t have atm

Depends on what your doing but there are two basic types; those based on mole grips and posse-able magnetic ones.
See
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=welding+clamps&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=ZZX0TuLqF8j0-gbfxcTDAQ&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CGAQ_AUoAQ&biw=1113&bih=840

Brian
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Damon
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gothtec wrote:


On tip - Welders eye is horrid and painful so be carefull Thumbs Up


I can vouch for that.

I wouldn't even attemp welding exhausts with an arc welder. I have a hard time welding my rs expansion chamber with my MIG with 0.8mm wire (0.6mm wire is better). An arc welder will just blow straight through anything that thin.

Good luck though and keep practicing. Put some pictures up of your welds and we can give you some pointers to keep you moving in the right direction.

Thanks,
Damon
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Davo
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look at some of the local technical colleges, see if they do any welding courses. I did an evening course (spaced over a year) and became fairly confident on what I can weld etc.. (certainly helped out with getting the car through it's MOT - had to replace a floor pan & some sills)

As people have mentioned ARC welding is relatively easy to do, but very difficult to master.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MIG is only expensive to learn if you're buying those tiny bottles of gas. Your local friendly gas supplier may do a good price on big bottles. I pay £40 deposit on a 4ft high bottle, and refills are £40 delivered. Lasts for absolutely ages.
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Damon
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
MIG is only expensive to learn if you're buying those tiny bottles of gas. Your local friendly gas supplier may do a good price on big bottles. I pay £40 deposit on a 4ft high bottle, and refills are £40 delivered. Lasts for absolutely ages.


Robby where do you get your Gas from? Karma
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