Have I buggered up rear wheel bearing etc?

[GREENI3]

I attempted to adjust my chain for the first time and think I may have f'd up something.

I watched a video on youtube that said to put an 8mm allen wrench in between the chain and sprocket to tighten everything up to ensure correct adjustment, which is what I did, but I think I may have over tightened it by rotating the wheel too far, because I heard a loud 'snap'.

I checked the sprocket teeth and chain links and couldn't see any damage.

I've rotated the rear wheel a few times and the sprocket isn't rotating in a straight line. It wobbles slightly from left to right.
And I think the wheel does the same thing.

There was also a squeak coming from the wheel as well.

Any ideas?

[Damon]

Check the chain adjusters on each side. Are they at the same adjustment? Never heard the 8mm Allen key thing before... Do you have a link to the video?

Thanks,
Damon

[GREENI3]

[Rogerborg]

I have got no idea what you or that guy are yakking on about or what you've done or think you've done.

For all intents and purposes, your Lexmoto Street is just another CG-drivetrain-clone. Chain tension is covered here or a million other places.

The rear sprocket is connected to the sprocket carrier through rubber cush drives that give (and are designed to give) some, uh, give.

If the wheel is straight and the chain has the right amount of slack, and the rear sprocket isn't wobblier than a Greek government, then take the bike for a ride. If it feels OK, then it is OK. Stop worrying about it, it's fine.
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[totalllama82]

Are you sure the spacers at each side of the spindle are seated correctly?

Does the wheel wobble when lifted up (paddock/centre stand)? If it does then the wheel bearings are a likely cause.

Is it only the rear sprocket thats moving about? It shouldnt move in and out as it should be held in place by the spindles tension.

Lets see some pictures of the setup - should help us diagnose the problem.
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[GREENI3]

This is the type of adjuster on my bike.

https://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5600/img0057ez.jpg

The wheel doesn't wobble when lifted up, but I can move the rear sprocket ever so slightly with a degree of strength.

I've also done a quick video of the wheel spinning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqVLWhsY_HI

There's a click sound when the chain rotates past a certain point, not sure what it is though.
But it only happens when the wheel is rotated forwards and not backwards.

[Raffles]

That youtube clip shows us nothing. You need to shoot it again using a tripod or something similar to hold the camera steady.
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[mccluskeyd]

I would personally take the wheel off and the tensioners to see if there is a problem with the wheel spacers,or if the wheel bearings have been mis-aligned somehow ??

With the clicking - if you over tension a chain or mis-align it, it will give you this ; it needs to be set up correctly with the correct amount of play when you put it back together ; too tight and it will click and overstress the whole drive train, too slack and it will wear badly and may jump the sprocket in extreme cases.

Make sure when you take everything off ; you have all the parts in the one place & in clean conditions ; examine it all carefully & you will probably see any broken bits etc.

With these CG type rear sprockets, the four bolts that you can see go into rubber bushes in the wheel (cush drive) ; sometimes they split and make the sprocket wobble !!

All the best with it.

David.

[G]

Putting a tool inbetween the chain and sprocket pulls the wheel forward so it's pressing against the adjusters - ensuring that when you tighten it, it's not moved off the adjusters.

This is a random example I founds on the 'nets.
https://www.miniriders.com/images/uploads/thump140/pitbikesetuptips/24239-achtung-noobs-your-new-pitbike-you-set-up-tips15.jpg

I suspect it was just the chain/tool moving slightly that you heard.
When you consider the forces on it doing a wheelie, say - it's unlikely you'll have damaged anything by doing this by hand. If you, it suggests it's quite likely to have failed pretty soon anyway.

(However, certainly does sound like there other issues.)

[Pete.]

Your sprocket carrier will always have a little bit of movement both axially and radially since it's mounted on rubbers - that is normal for most bikes with some mileage on them.

If you have broken anything it will be either a chain sideplate or a cracked a roller. My money is on the sideplate. Small possibility you have broken a pin I guess but I've never seen a broken pin yet.

BTW there is no good reason to jamb a screwdriver in between the chain and sprocket like that. It puts an incredible strain on the chain. You can easily move the axle without doing , just gently nip up the bolt then knock the wheel forwards - I use a hammer on the tyre.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Walloper]

Who wants to Twat that dude who's in his Mrs' Apron?

I had to turn the sound off.



Youtube is so bifuffled by irritating cnuts.
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[Walloper]

[G]

I hammer screwdrivers into oil filters .
(Well, if I don't have the correct tool handy, anyway.)

When accelerating hard, each link in a chain is going to be taking a hell of a lot of force.
I can't see a person turning the wheel back by hand to wedge it up against the blocks coming anywhere near the force needed to move a bike and rider to 60 in 3 seconds, nevermind when a bit more throttle is used and the front of the bike is lifted and held off the ground with said chain. Find it hard to believe that even with some force at a bit of a different angle it would do any damage when it should be able to take the above.

If you had an entirely alloy sprocket and really smashed it round, could see it possibly damaging that. But enough force to do that and you've probably already knackered your bike in several other ways .

[Robby]

The snap could have been because one of the end caps wasn't seated squarely on the end of the swingarm, and the snap was it rotating and seating into place under lots of pressure.

You need to put a lot of strain through a chain to break something. You would be putting quite considerable force through the adjuster to do so, difficult if you were using an allen key, it would be starting to hurt your hand. Was the chain really bowstring tight at this point?

Some clicking when rotating the wheel is not unusual, you have a chain rotating on sprockets, lots of contact points and lots of moving parts. I've had loads of bikes that do it with no problems in the drive chain.

If it is tensioned correctly, lubed up, and you can see no visible damage in the chain, then ride it and see. If there is a serious problem with the chain then it will become apparent and break in the first few miles. Make sure your chain guard is installed and don't try any top speed runs for 20 miles or so if you're not sure about it.

[G]

Britain's first jet (Gloser E28/39) made 850lbs of thrust. Ducati 1198 manages around 950lbs peak in first gear.
OK not entirely comparable, but find it hard to believe that a chain designed to take that is going to have issues being turned by hand with a screwdriver stuck in it!

[Walloper]

[GREENI3]

Well I think I've found out whats causing the clicking; from what I can see, it's the split link brushing against one of the screws on the chain guard, which may suggest a misaligned wheel?

[Walloper]

[Kickstart]

[Vincent]

[G]

[Vincent]

Dunno, you've got a lot of leverage on that wheel. I don't think I'll be using that method anytime in the near future. Reminds me of the phrase "sticking a spanner in the works"...........'cept it's a screwdriver.
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[G]