Axle nut tightness

[nutter]

Hello

I really need to adjust my chain as its very loose, which wouldn't be a problem on my cbr 125 as they do a haynes manual

Now I have a kawasaki ZR7, no manual (nothing from previous owner) and need to know how tight the axle nut needs to be after adjusting the chain, preferably in NM as this is what my torque wrench works in. I'm waiting for a manual from the US but I need to ride the bike to work on boxing day and its very loose

Is there a general torque that can be considered generic or is every bike different?

Many thanks
Mark
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Current bike is kawasaki ZR7 - Previous is CBR 125 (40,000 long long miles). Mod 2 passed 11/08/11 - Hope to become an instructor

[robocog]

What size bolt?
(shaft and head diameter)

Armed with that info ..

https://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htm
or
https://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx

or
https://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorqueNm.aspx
(as you wanted NM)


Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[robocog]

https://www.scribd.com/doc/19825977/ZR7

Is this the manual?

If so...
Front is 98 N-m
Rear is 110 N-m

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[nutter]

22/23mm head using adjustable spanner and tape measure (you can see what your dealing with lol).

EDIT

thanks to yours and my dads help we think we've figured it out lol. Its got split pin so there's little chance of the wheel coming off....I sound so thick lol

2ND EDIT

Thank you so much Rob

Thats the sports version but its as good as the same bike chassis wise. We had thught, through the tables extra that it was up near 220lb/ft, 110NM sounds a lot softer, my cbr 125 was 69NM

3RD EDIT :/

After converting it all back to lb/ft (i actually looked at the torque wench to find it different) I have settled on the correct figure from what you've found for me and what my dads told me

MANY THANKS ROB, and merry xmas
____________________
Current bike is kawasaki ZR7 - Previous is CBR 125 (40,000 long long miles). Mod 2 passed 11/08/11 - Hope to become an instructor

[G]

I wouldn't overly worry -lots of people just do them up "pretty damn hard" and don't suffer ill effects.

The usual ratings (80-150) still really aren't THAT tight and generally they don't seem to suffer from someone with a big spanner putting a decent bit of force on them.

[nutter]

Well I tried it today as I could see what I was doing, and it appears the adjustment nut is locked somehow that I can't see. On my 125 it was a locking nut so was easy, so I'm taking it into my local garage and ask if they can show me whats going wrong as i started rounding off the nut.

shaft drive all the way from now on I think....just another excuse to get a BMW R1200RT lol
____________________
Current bike is kawasaki ZR7 - Previous is CBR 125 (40,000 long long miles). Mod 2 passed 11/08/11 - Hope to become an instructor

[G]

A picture, maybe?

[Pete.]

[nutter]

[Pete.]

Okay, firstly there is no lock-nut for that adjuster, it just pulls up tight on the endcap. Many people swap the nuts for nylock nuts to stop them self-loosening.

Secondly, you appear to be close to, if not at, the maximum adjustment for your chain. The carrier is covered in chain grease as is the outside plates of the cahin but there seems to be little or none on the rollers themselves. Going by the way the side of the wheel spoke has grease sprayed on it, I would guess that you are used to greasing the chain by spraying the area of the carrier, you should improve your chain lubing technique to get better coverage on the chain and less where it's not needed.

Thirdly, judging by the way the plate is dished, that bolt has been seriously over-tightened in the past.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good