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Honda regulator rectifier! UPDATE - REAR WHEEL WOBBLE??

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shereen
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Joined: 15 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Honda regulator rectifier! UPDATE - REAR WHEEL WOBBLE?? Reply with quote

Need a new one. Options are £150 for genuine Honda Sick

Or one of these.....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350138647801?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-VFR400-VFR-400-NC30-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-RECH001-/200606222985?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2eb5100a89

Thoughts?
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Last edited by shereen on 15:53 - 27 Dec 2011; edited 1 time in total
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get one with fins and mount it next to a really good ventilated area. Possibly bolt near the front of the bike? More cooling the better Laughing
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Oldie
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "flat" ones without the fins get really hot, at least on mine which is hidden beneath the saddle. Next time I'd go for "fins".
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 13:13 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Work out the pin order and fit this one.

It wont break because it is a mosfet regulator rather than a zennor.
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shereen
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice guys, I will get the one with fins Thumbs Up

stinkwheel wrote:
Work out the pin order and fit this one.

It wont break because it is a mosfet regulator rather than a zennor.


I have no idea what yo mean by pin order Laughing Are you saying the reg in the link you posted will fit my nc30? Confused
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think he means check that your layout is the same as that one.

As in the 1st pin is 12v+ and the 2nd is 5v+

Yours could be 1st pin 5v+ and 2nd pin 3.3v+ or something along those lines?

Just making sure you plug it in the right way/adjusting your wiring to suit.
I bodge, so would cut and solder it... but I wouldn't recommend it Laughing
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use the R1, Fazer 1000 R/R. They come with a 'tail' out of the recs body, makes cutting and soldering easy. Good units, not had one fail and they are cheap as chips, probably because they DONT fail.
Dont know what the 5 or 3.5 volts are that has been refered to. These are simply 3 (same colour) in from the alternator, one regulated live output, one earth.
Some early R/R came with a 'voltage sensor' input, these are V old technology and are unreliable, you dont need the voltage sensor connection wirth these.
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Last edited by jjdugen on 17:55 - 23 Dec 2011; edited 1 time in total
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shereen
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, So im getting the garage to fit it for me. Will they consider fitting a part that is not a direct fit?
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

shereen wrote:
Hmmm, So im getting the garage to fit it for me. Will they consider fitting a part that is not a direct fit?


Fit it yourself?
Its REALLY simple Thumbs Up
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shereen
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
shereen wrote:
Hmmm, So im getting the garage to fit it for me. Will they consider fitting a part that is not a direct fit?


Fit it yourself?
Its REALLY simple Thumbs Up


Yes I am going to fit it myself now, as I'm going to pick my bike up tomorrow!!
Dance!
Exciting!! I miss her!!
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 23 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you really do need a hand, always willing Thumbs Up
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 26 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
Use the R1, Fazer 1000 R/R. They come with a 'tail' out of the recs body, makes cutting and soldering easy. Good units, not had one fail and they are cheap as chips, probably because they DONT fail.
Dont know what the 5 or 3.5 volts are that has been refered to. These are simply 3 (same colour) in from the alternator, one regulated live output, one earth.
Some early R/R came with a 'voltage sensor' input, these are V old technology and are unreliable, you dont need the voltage sensor connection wirth these.


The 2001 R1 rectifier/regulator has only a connector with no 'tail' to it.This was a problem with my one - one of the spade connectors within the block burnt out due to dirt corrosion.Once I had a new 'RR' I soldered the spades directly to the 'RR' unit.This made ensuring that the connectors were put on in the correct order a priority.

Is the bike done now Shereen?
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shereen
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 26 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
jjdugen wrote:
Use the R1, Fazer 1000 R/R. They come with a 'tail' out of the recs body, makes cutting and soldering easy. Good units, not had one fail and they are cheap as chips, probably because they DONT fail.
Dont know what the 5 or 3.5 volts are that has been refered to. These are simply 3 (same colour) in from the alternator, one regulated live output, one earth.
Some early R/R came with a 'voltage sensor' input, these are V old technology and are unreliable, you dont need the voltage sensor connection wirth these.


The 2001 R1 rectifier/regulator has only a connector with no 'tail' to it.This was a problem with my one - one of the spade connectors within the block burnt out due to dirt corrosion.Once I had a new 'RR' I soldered the spades directly to the 'RR' unit.This made ensuring that the connectors were put on in the correct order a priority.

Is the bike done now Shereen?


All done apart from the reg. I must admit pdq in slough have been extremely good once again. And let me pay cash Thumbs Up the bike has been tuned up nicely
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shereen
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 26 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
jjdugen wrote:
Use the R1, Fazer 1000 R/R. They come with a 'tail' out of the recs body, makes cutting and soldering easy. Good units, not had one fail and they are cheap as chips, probably because they DONT fail.
Dont know what the 5 or 3.5 volts are that has been refered to. These are simply 3 (same colour) in from the alternator, one regulated live output, one earth.
Some early R/R came with a 'voltage sensor' input, these are V old technology and are unreliable, you dont need the voltage sensor connection wirth these.


The 2001 R1 rectifier/regulator has only a connector with no 'tail' to it.This was a problem with my one - one of the spade connectors within the block burnt out due to dirt corrosion.Once I had a new 'RR' I soldered the spades directly to the 'RR' unit.This made ensuring that the connectors were put on in the correct order a priority.

Is the bike done now Shereen?


All done apart from the reg. I must admit pdq in slough have been extremely good once again. And let me pay cash Thumbs Up the bike has been tuned up nicely
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shereen
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I picked the bike up the other day, and when I pulled off and put it into second gear the rear wheel kicked out. i thought it might have been the wet road or the soggy leaves on the ground so I didnt think much of it. I take the bike out again today and the same thing happens, knock it into second and the rear wheel kicks out again. It doesnt do it any other time only seems to be the very first time it is put into second. I will take it out tomorrow and see if it happens again.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

I thought it might be because the rear wheel is slighty squared off, but it was like this before the clutch was changed and it never did this before.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

First thing to check is the rear wheel bearings. Put the bike on the centre stand (if fitted) or a paddock stand if possible.Grip the type on opposite sides of the wheel and try and wobble it. See if you can feel a load of play (ie, no effort to move the wheel a couple of mm and then it stops moving).

All the best

Keith
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shereen
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

First thing to check is the rear wheel bearings. Put the bike on the centre stand (if fitted) or a paddock stand if possible.Grip the type on opposite sides of the wheel and try and wobble it. See if you can feel a load of play (ie, no effort to move the wheel a couple of mm and then it stops moving).

All the best

Keith


Thanks Keith, I checked for play and also checked the alignment which both seemed fine to me.
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chegg
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Joined: 29 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

cold tyres and cold road if its only the first time you put it in second when your out mines got a habit of doing the same when the rear is cold and with diablos fitted its even worse. and just check the shock and linkage bolts and then if i doubt hit it with the biggest hammer you can till it stops easyist way to fix a nc and as for the reg rec mines got a 2004 cbr600 unit fitted not had any trouble with it
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