Spraying a bike with a can...

[calum17]

I know people on here have done this, but im just wondering, how well does it come out? lots have people have told me it would come out great, some say not to waste the money.

But, i have a cbr600 which is a fairly minging blue and there are some marks on the fairings which i'd like to fill and then respay the fairings to make it look smarter again. but, getting someone to do this will cost more than i want to spend on this bike and replacement fairings from china are around £350, so if im wondering if it would look ok if it was sanded down (would i still need primer if i sand down the current paint? it has been resprayed already and i thought primer was just for new paint jobs) then spray it from a can (gloss black, white or something basic) then laquer it with clear laquer, would it just look like a total mess or if i put in the time on the prep work and take care with the spraying could it look ok? anyone have pictures and advice if they have done it?

calum.

[ninja_butler]

Do it either in a bone dry garage or outside in Summer, any moisture in the air could ruin the finish. Either way you'll have to sand it down a couple of time with fine grade wet & dry and abrasive paste such as T-Cut.

You'll never get a perfect finish because the pressure from a spray can isn't constant like it is with an air-brush. Shake the can regularly and when it gets low give the can a squeeze to reduce the amount of air space in the can to restore pressure.

[Frost]

Spraying is piss easy and even a rattle can can give a very good finish provided that you do the colour in a couple of very thin even layers. Laquer is a little harder to get right as any moisture makes it go milky. The difficult bit is the prep work. You'll need to sand it all back, then use body filler for scrapes and fiberglass for larger holes. Then you'll have to prime it, check it carefully, sand it again, spray again etc etc. I could colour and laquer a panel with almost no effort, but due to the prep work required to get to that stage the whole process is a lot of hard work that must not be rushed!

[Walloper]

You will need a few cans of paint.

I think there is about an eggcup full in those Halfraud cans.

As said prep is the most important part of the re-spray.

Painting will highlight the tiniest flaw in the job if not completed carefully.

Preping a job is good therapy.

If you consider the paint for what it primarily is a Protective Coating.
It protects what is underneath it.
And also decorative.

It will not hide a multitude of sins though.

If you prep as above posts say you will get perfectly good results.

DO NOT RUSH IT. FFS.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[groovylee]

[Frost]

Primer is what hides the sins and determines the end finish quality. The colour is exactly that and doesn't need to be thick at all, only enough to cover the primer. The clear coat on top is what give the paint it's shine and protects the colour layer, so make sure it's nice and thick. Wait a few weeks for it to fully harden then polish the hell out of it.

[jjdugen]

As above, go to a paint factor and have them make up some cans, dont forget to keep the code on the can, if you do need more you can phone the code through to them, saves a lot of waiting time.
Modern water based paint is pretty rubish, very soft. Get them to mix you the older formulation, tell them its for a vintage machine.
If dealing with ABS plastic, make SURE you get some 'blocking' undercoat, it stops any reaction between plastics and paint.
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[Rogerborg]

I got reasonable results out of Plastikote project paint, but you do have to factor in a lot of time for prep and treat it as an exercise in can-shaking with very occasional bouts of light colour-misting. Lacquer does genuinely take weeks to harden, and will go wrinklier than Madonna's scrotum if given the slightest knock before then.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Cunnington]

As above, prep is the key, and dont rush it - allow yourself plenty time between coats to let it go off, not just the solvent dry out. My impatience usually ends in runs if the solvent in the next coat lifts all your earlier hard work.

Get yourself one of the handles with a trigger that clips onto the top of the can. They reduce the trigger pressure, which can be a bitch at the end of a large panel with aerosols.
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'82 C50, '81 CB100, '84 GS125, '95 NTV650, '00 Bandit 600, '06 SV650, '56 Z1000, '89 NTV600
The Shaggy D.A. wrote: "You are invisible. Those who can see you are trying to kill you."

[Suntan Sid]

[stinkwheel]

Or do it matt black with no prep at all.

Matt black covers anything. Even mud.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[von1papen]

to the matt black!

One thing I will say is don't use halfords "petrol proof" laquer, it bloody well isn't and it ruined the original paintwork on my wee CG, back when she was in shiney gloss black and clean.....

Bit of petrol from the pump went over the tank, massive damage to the finish and that was well over a month after we'd finished spraying etc

[Walloper]

[Rogerborg]

[calum17]

thanks for all of the advice guys, sounds like if i put in the effort then i'll be able to get a decent enough finish from it.
so what colour should i do a 1992 cbr600? gloss black, white or silver? im guessing silver cans would be harder to come by than black, so thats the easier option?

and, if i want to laquer over the stickers that i put on it, should i laquer the paint, then stickers then laquer again or just paint, then stickers and a coat of laquer over the top of that?

calum.

[HD]

Put up a picture of it now and we shall have a look
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Rusty '02 Vito Camper + CBR600F3

[calum17]

here you go.
it does look like a half tidy bike, in a decent colour here - but if you see the bike in real life then it doesn't look anywhere near as nice.
there is a crack on that side of the bike, you can see the two rip ties which were holding it together (along with hot glue on the inside) just below the quick removal panel, but i've taken out the rip ties and fibreglassed it together so its stronger now.

[Walloper]

[calum17]

yup, would appear that way. there was some scraps of plastic in the hot glue to help strengthen it a little though, with the zip/rip ties through it to keep it all in place... you can see one or two of the ties on the front of the bike too that hold it all together ... not ideal but im sure i can sort most of it, even if i fibreglass fairings together to make one larger fairing instead - depends where the bolts are and how many lugs are or arent in place still.

[HD]

Think I'd go for all black (inc. other panels) with a honda decal on the tank, and the model by the pillion seat both in white. And maybe some manufacturer ones on the belly pan.... maybe.
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Rusty '02 Vito Camper + CBR600F3

[Walloper]

[lozza59]

hi! firstly great bike! i miss mine a lot
but to the point of the topic.... yes you can get a decent job from a rattle can but it takes a lot of time and patience, my first 'big paint job' too was a cbr 600 (1990 fl) and was done with rattle cans, by no means perfect by my standard.. though everyone complimented it!
you mention silver as a potential colour choice? in my experience silver is just about the worst colour to get the right finish on and if your trying to match near impossible.
gloss black?
this was the colour of choice for my cbr 600.
your main focus lies with the prep work and there is always a lot!
also best to paint in a gazebo on a warm day or the kitchen as i do.......
anyway before i go on and on here are some pics of what i managed all with rattle cans!
(suzuki rg 125 tank and side panel)
if your really interested i will tell you the exact paint i used!

[Teflon-Mike]

How good it gonna look ALL depends on how well you do the job.
Paint is the same price regardless.
Personally, I go down to a base; on plastic; plastic 'key' coat, then primer; then colour, then laquer.
It can get expensive, using a key, and then hi-build, then primer, then colour then laquer, but that's what it takes.
BUT the devil is in the detail, and even with a good colour finish, very easy for it to look 'unfinished' or obviousely re-sprayed.
Generic black or white, or bright red, is a common give away. If you cant come up with anything more imaginative; use a colour close to one of the factory options. & think long and hard about something 'loud' like a screaming yellow or lurid orange.
And DONT paint TOO much; far to many people get carried away and start painting frames body-colour and matching foot-peg hangers and things.
NEXT thing is to not spoil a good job for a hapeth of tar; and leaving the bike 'bare' and unbadged, is a give-away its been painted, and hits its been crashed.
Slapping generic Honda badges on the bike is another no-no.
Honda are very careful in thier Badging, and they have a HUGE selection of Honda emblems and wings, and they change the colouring for different paint schemes.
Slapping a generic Honda badge on nearly always looks 'wrong'. And if you cant get a factory replica Decal set for the bike, often falce ecconomy getting a 'wrong' decal pack; plenty of folk out there that will make decals for you, and often for not a lot more money than crappy generic ones.

So, onto a few examples: Show & Tell is full of good stuff; have a browse; BUT, couple of mine:

DIRTY TREATS: Air-cooled, 2T, Yamaha ‘Enduro’ Renovation
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/030_035_Yamaha_DT/pictur1.jpg
This is how I aquired it; a tatty, and very rusty barn find.
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/030_035_Yamaha_DT/imag2300.jpg
Complete tear-down renovation this one, and the frame & cycle-parts are all powder coated; but here it is glistening in its first coat of yellow. All done with rattle cans, and at that stage, un-laquered
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/030_035_Yamaha_DT/imag2301.jpg
Gives you an idea of the difference some strategic decals make.
These are paper-mock-ups, as I didn't have originals to use as a template. Currently waiting to get these made up, and then they will be applied & laqured over. Hoping Corf will oblige me with them, as he did for the Super-Dreams:

Corporal Punishment! Foto-Resto ANOTHER '86 Honda CB125T
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/100_0629.jpg
Another full tear-down project; but here seen in a 'finished' state, all decaled out. Looks 'Factory' doesn't it, but it isn't.
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/LD07_Misc/imag1785.jpg
Looked like this originally.
Corf, made up the decals for us, based on the livery of the later machines, then adapted to badge as a 'Super-Dream'...
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/E%20Bay%20Adds/KGrHqMOKoYE0gPGc96tBNEjWbZQ_12.jpg
This is the sort of thing many end up with though; the final effect ruined and made to obviousely look re-painted, with a generic badge and a dawb of a stripe.
The irony IS, Corf made the full vynal decal sets up to my design for the Corporal for barely ANY more than I could have got a couple of generic Honda logo's and wings, and an off the shelf '125' sticker! Worth a thought, isn't it?

Anyway; thing is before you start; think of the finish!

Easy to get carried away and rush; and those decals are often one of the last things to be considered when you are looking for the 'final touch'. BUT, if you want copy graphics you need to think about them FIRST.

Before you sand down, you'ss as like as not peel off any original stickers or decals... do that and you have no template to use to make new ones!

So, if you want to go this route; and have original decals on the bike; you need to make template tracings from them.

We did a bit of 'How to' in Snowie's Build-Blog, doing her bike:

Pup-Project: Photo-Resto; Honda CB125TD-C (FINISHED!)

Be warned; the thread is 8 pages long, and photo-heavy; but very detailed. The build took a year, and there's a lot of mechanical overhaul work in there, along with fine detailing of piece parts like switches and instruments, as well as all the prep of plastics, before painting, like plastic welding up cracked side-panels and rebuilding panel ligs and such; but again, photo's of paint stages, throughout, all rattle canned. Plenty of inspiration & tips for you though.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/cb125/pictur03.jpg
Was what she started with:
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/imag1904.jpg
Arty pic of primer being applied to a mudguard!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/imag1763.jpg
Tracing Decal outlines off bodywork from later bike.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Decals/100_0531.jpg
Decals as supplied by Corf...
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Decals/100_0576.jpg
Snowie applying the tank stripes
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/XX-Forum%20Posts/101_0043.jpg
Finished article, in the Sunlight, with her helmet painted to match!
People DO NOT believe that bike is twenty five years old, nor do they believe that neither the paint, nor the decals are 'factory'.

As said, all three of these bikes were done with rattle cans. There is absolutely NO reason that a job should look 'crap' just becouse its been done with them not a pro-paint pot. Its ALL in how its done. Old addage; a bad workman blames his tools. You wont get as 'good' a finish with a rattle can as you might a pot & compressor; but pro-spray kit, wont garantee anything 'better', without the same thought, attension to detail, and graft preparation to go with it.
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[lozza59]

excellent advice from teflon mike there, i agree with not painting every single part one colour... Makes it look like a toy lol
there are many different colours to choose from! Honda supersonic blue is a nice one as is tvr orange, usually harder and more work involved with the more special colours. The orange on the focus st requires 9 coats for the right finish! So can be pricey too!
Always go over the prepped surface to 'feel' for any imperfections as they may not be too noticeable to eye but will show up when painted. I find darker colours are easier to get a nice finish with but they do seem to really show up imperfections, again prevented by decent prep work, im currently trying to get the right silver for my cb 125 t2, I never seem to have luck with silver but its the colour i want it.
Im suprised i can even afford a tin of paint after my car insurance renewal!

[Teflon-Mike]

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Decals/100_0546.jpg

Silver Side-Panel in the Pic, was painted with:- (as it's hand written on the lable!) Standox; Honda - Force Silver NH-411m (From the Honda 'Car' pallet.) Its a close colour match to the original silver Honda put on the CB125 Super-Dream, but its a deeper metalic.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'