Lexmoto xtr125

[Mini Stalk]

Hi guys, if all goes well on thursday i am getting my hands on a 2010 plate Lexmoto xtr125 and was just woundering what you guys think on them

Thanks
Dave

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Mini Stalk]

Yea have been trying to hunt somthing out a little more reliable but found nohing in my price range really, then this poped up very cheep.
To be honnest id jump at another yamaha sr.
I have been looking though google and trying to find out about them but not having a great deal of luck

[DrDonnyBrago]

[Mini Stalk]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Mini Stalk]

[P.]

If you don't mind...what was your budget?

Example - £500 could have got you a tatty jap 125, needs a little love and paint but will run for a while with no major trouble.

My £500 chinese bike started rusting (58 plate) and bolts snapped, exhaust shield fell off....then it got stolen

[Mini Stalk]

[UnspeedySam]

[DrDonnyBrago]

£250 isn't a lot of cash to be fair, that said small things can quickly mount up. Rusty fork stanchions for example need replacing, which is never cheap. Warped discs, shagged out brake calipers, rusty downpipes, bearings etc etc can quickly add up and your bargain is no longer a bargain.


Check for oil on the stanchions, rust on the stanchions (the chromed tubes that go into the fork bottoms), check the brakes for binding by spinning the wheels. Check the bearings in the wheels and swingarm by tugging the wheels back and forth and trying to move them sideways, any play in the wheel or rear end is bad. Do the same on the front, check for play in the forks and wheel. Also get the front wheel off the ground and turn the bars to full lock both sides, check there is no crunchy sounds and that they turn freely, no tight or loose spots. Check the chain and sprockets for wear, really pointy sprocket teeth will mean it all needs replacing, check the rear shock(s?) for leaks and have a sit and a bounce on it.

As for the engine, tappy sounds might be ok, check for exhaust leaks and try and see where the noise is coming from - could be loose valves that are easily adjusted on smaller bikes, could be something worse. Knocking and clunking sounds are bad. Check for stupid amounts of rust on fasteners, can be a royal pain in the ass to sort when they seize and then snap off.

Test ride it.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[UnspeedySam]

If it checks out on closer inspection on all the points mentioned by DonnyBrago then as a ride it, pass test and sell it bike I reckon you could actually make a profit. However if you plan on keeping it more than a couple of years I would consider something a bit more solid.

My friend just bought a 1982 Honda CM125 and the thing has barely got any rust on it and runs like clockwork (came with new pistons and rings). He did pay over the odds (£550) but I think he'll be able to sell it in the summer for the money he paid.
____________________
Riding: BMW R1150RT `02 bought mildly crashed
Fixing: Also the BMW as I get less broken bits
Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01, Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88

[jjdugen]

I'd love to know where all these 'bombproof' Jap 125's are. Everytime I've had one in they suffer:- Rusty exhaust, pitting on fork legs, general canker of paintwork, rusty rims, crap wiring. Thats before dealing with rattly cam chains, failing ECU's and the usual rusty drive chain and hooked sprockets.
They were made to a budget too. The Chinks I've seen or worked on were no better, no worse, in fact, start with the premise that they are ALL crap and have been hammered into the ground and you wont go far wrong.
____________________
The CBR900RR has been sold. Aprilia Falco worms its way into my heart.
Try Soi 23 on Amazon for a good read.... Self promotion? Moi?

[P.]

[Rogerborg]

Lexmoto doesn't make anything, that's a Skyjet SJ125-24, which is also just a branding of whatever WhangDong Speedly Good Bike it was originally manufactured as.

The 156FMI engine should be the most robust bit, although it'll hardly set your pulse racing. It's the ancient air cooled pushrod design from the CG125 (tucked away behind fairings) so if you try and ride it like it were a real CBR125, you'll likely cook it and bend a pushrod or shag the gearbox. Oil change early and often, treat it as a pretty commuter, don't expect or try to get more than a sustained 55mph out of it.

Definitely give the frame, cycle parts and electrics a good check over. Pay particular attention to the exhaust mounting bolts which are prone to coming loose or snapping. In fact, check every nut and bolt for security, and add spring washers and Loctite as required.

Although all that said, for £250 you could just part it out if it's a dog.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[truslack]

For £250 you should find a decent Japanese 2 stroke 100cc Commuter.
____________________
Current: Suzuki RG 125 Gamma, Honda H100, Triumph Tiger 800XC, Suzuki SV650 (minitwin)

[UnspeedySam]

[Mini Stalk]

sorry for no replys we ended up going to look at it yesterday.
We got there and it was mint really, started up first time, no rust, everythink worked, no rattels from the engine. the only think with it was were it has been in a slight spank the bars not streght with the frount wheel, but im hoping if i undo the bolts move the bars round every think sould be ok, it did say on advert that the bars were off, i just didnt read it right, :/ but other than that really its mint, other than it being chinese i cant really falt it. even half a tank of fule

[nowhere.elysium]

[gg]

This thread is putting me off the idea of chinese bikes. my first bike was a lifan 125, which was stolen, after the foot peg started falling off the first week. though that could be due to who built it rather than the quality of bike. anyone know of the time they last before rusting?