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Baking soda to clean exhaust the rs125

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stevo123
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 10 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Baking soda to clean exhaust the rs125 Reply with quote

Hi, i am going to have a go at cleaning the gunk from the exhaust system. How much of the soda do i need, was thinking bout 3/4 of a cup full? Also do i use cold water or hot? Embarassed Thanks in advance Wink
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you might mean caustic soda.
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badlydamaged
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, I use caustic soda when decoking exhausts, normally lots of it (I dont bother to measure it) and find it works best with lots of hot water (best as in lots of bubbling and violent release of nasty gases). You can use it with cold water, as the soda causes the water to heat up as it reacts, however it works quicker with hot water.

Just dont use it on any aluminion alloys or aluminion, if you want to know why just chuck an old Coke can or similar into the solution and watch it slowly discolve away.

Oh, and if you get any caustic soda onto your skin, or clothes rinse it off with lots of cold water, as its really nasty stuff!

Cheers, Jonathan
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 15:47 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it is caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) that you want for that job. As its name suggests, it is very caustic so eye protection and rubber gloves would be a good idea, it is sold as drain cleaner.

Take the exhaust off, stick a potato in one end and fill up with a strong solution of caustic. After about 20 minutes, empty out (down the drain, which it will clean) and flush out with plenty of water, a hosepipe is ideal. Throw the potato in the bin in case something tries to eat it.

Caustic soda will dissolve exhaust coke, alloy, aluminium, paint, skin and eyes. Bear this in mind!
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

& use spray on oven cleaner for the stubborn bits.....
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stevo123
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't know where to get this caustic stuff from, tried mr muscle drain cleaner. did nothing at all Sad . Think its pretty clean anyhow.
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badlydamaged
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get mine from the local DIY shop, just ask around as to where you can get it locally, its pretty easy to get hold of Thumbs Up .
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My bike: 1988 Kawasaki KH100 Status: Polluting Devon with two stroke smog and noise pollution!
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 20:35 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo123 wrote:
don't know where to get this caustic stuff from, tried mr muscle drain cleaner. did nothing at all Sad . Think its pretty clean anyhow.

It's also sold as *Lye*.. used by murderers for the dissolving of bodies.
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mr jamez
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get it from homebase, seal up one end of the exhaust, mix caustic soda with water then fill it up and allow it to soak for a few hours. When you pour it out the water should be brown and 'orrible Smile btw, if you have any cuts on your hands wear gloves as it stings like hell when it gets in them Embarassed
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 3 years, 11 days between these two posts...

rg500
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 01 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: 03:11 - 01 Oct 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOD O'L CAUSTIC SODA,WORKS A TREAT IF YOUR CHAMBERS ARE NOT COKED UP LIKE - 2MM THICK. I HAVE AN OLD RZ/ RD500, CURRENTLY DECOKING THE EXHAUSTS. 250M OF CAUSTIC SODA IN A BUCKET OF HOT WATER, BE VERY VERY CAREFULL WHEN "ADDING" THE CAUSTIC TO THE HOT WATER, ONE TABLE SPOON AT A TIME, ALWAYS LEAVE PLENTY OF ROOM BETWEEN YOURSELF & THE BUCKET IN CASE OF ANY FLARE UP, & OBVIOUSLY WEAR ALL THE SAFETY STUFF, GOGGLES & GLOVES. SO ROUGHLY EIGHT TABLE SPOONS OF CAUSTIC. MIX WITH A TALL WOODEN STICK UNTIL DISOLVED.I USED A SINK PLUG I BOUGHT FROM THE HARDWARE TO BUNG UP ONE END OF THE EXHAUST, THEN SEALED IT UP WITH BLACK DUCT TAPE - JUST THE PLASTIC STRETCHABLE TAPE IS OK. SIT THE PIPE UPRIGHT, WITH THE BUNGED END ON THE FLOOR. SLOWLY & CAREFULLY POUR YOUR SOLUTION INTO THE UPRIGHT END (OBVIOUSLY), USING A FUNNEL, UNTIL IT REACHES THE TOP, AND IS COMPLETELY FULL. I LEFT MINE IN THEIR OVERNIGHT, CAUSE THE PIPES WERE PRETTY GUNKED UP. NEXT DAY, POOR OUT ALL THE SOLUTION & WATCH ALL THE SHIT COME OUT OF IT. TAKE OUT THE BUNG, THEN FLUSH THROUGH WITH COLD WATER - HOSE IS A GOOD OPTION. MAKE SURE ALL ALLOY PARTS ARE REMOVED, AND OF COURSE THE BAFFLE. FOR REALLY HEAVY SOLID BUILD UP, THE OXY MAY HAVE TO COME OUT. HEAT UP THE ENTIRE CHAMBER TILL THE PAINT STARTS TO REMOVE & TRY TO KEEP THE WHOLE PIPE A UNIFORM, VER HOT TEMP. WHEN YOUR SATISFIED THIS IS OK, DUMP THE EXHAUST IN A COLD BATH OF WATER TO REVERSE THE ACTION, THIS METHOD AGAIN SHOULD BE DONE CAREFULLY WHEN DUMPING THE EXHAUST IN EITHER, YOUR SWIMMING POOL, BATH TUB, OR AT LEAST A HOSE - NOT SURE IF THE MISSUS WOULD APPRECIATE THE BATH TUB OR POOL BY THE WAY. MIX UP ANOTHER CAUSTIC SOLUTION AS DESCRIBED BEFORE AND POUR INTO THE EXHAST FOR ANOTHER OVERNIGHT CAUSTIC BATH TO RELEASE ALL SCALING. IF ALL THIS FAILS, WWW.JOLLYMOTO.COM, GREAT SET OF CHAMBERS AT ABOUT $2500aud, WORTH EVERY CENT, SEE YA'S.
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Syx
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 01 Oct 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

My eyes! Shocked
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lukamon
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Joined: 18 May 2007
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 01 Oct 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

my local engine shop has a different method :
1. get a propane torch with 3' flame, stick down one end of pipe
2. wait 10 mins
3. revome torch. carbon (basically coal) is now glowing. position fan at one end of pipe and leave overnight. carbon burns itsself away Very Happy

(however, it strips all the paint)
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 01 Oct 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blast from the past Shocked
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 02 Oct 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another fave way of doing it is to throw the pipe on a BBQ that should heat it up enough to dry out the carbon and either start the burn process or make it a lot easier to get going with the petrol/blowtorch method. I used to find it better to stand the pipe up so that the hot air from the burning carbon would exit out the top which would pull fresh air in at the bottom making it burn much hotter!!. A tap with a soft mallet after its finished burning and cooled down usually gets any l bits of carbon and ash loose enough to shake out! A quick repaint and job done!!
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 18 years, 194 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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