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Dent removal for cans?

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Bikay
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 08 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Dent removal for cans? Reply with quote

Very cleverly I managed to dent the can on my CBR600. The dent is on the end where the can narrows to the exit hole. It's a standard stainless job so it'll be there forever and it's really starting to bug me!! Confused
I knocked it against a bar in a bike shed at work. Unfortunately I can't get inside to knock it back out. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the dent removed?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 22:40 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can block off the ends, connect it to a compressor whilst heating the area of the dent with a blowlamp, you might be able to pop it out. This is how they make a lot of exhaust systems. I have seen it done with dented petrol tanks too but be carefull, it might also turn into a hand-grenade.
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Bikay
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 23:08 - 19 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I don't have either of those items so I'll be safe. Reckon heating the can may also mark it perhaps?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 00:53 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 'poor mans' way of doing this which might work for a small, non-creased dent in the body of the can would be to put the can in the freezer and whilst it is still cold, seal up the ends (a big cork and lockwiring?) not exactly sure how you would do this, be imaginative (gaffa tape is your friend).

Take the still cold and now sealed can and pour a kettle of boiling water over it, the sudden expansion of the air inside as it heats up should in theory pop out a small dent. Again heard of this being done for petrol tank dents rather than end-cans but the principle is the same.

I have seen this used in reverse to spectacular effect by throwing iced water over an oil drum (a big one) which was heated then sealed up. Created enough pressure difference to crumple it like a soft drinks can.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkywheely wrote:
If you can block off the ends, connect it to a compressor whilst heating the area of the dent with a blowlamp, you might be able to pop it out. This is how they make a lot of exhaust systems. I have seen it done with dented petrol tanks too but be carefull, it might also turn into a hand-grenade.


do not, under any circumstances do this, if any of the welds let go it is quite possible to do serious injury to yourself. Fill the can with water if you really need to try it, but on an exhaust it is unlikely to work unless you use a pressure washer as your pump because the required pressures (1500-2000 psi) are way above what most air compressors will do. The problem with a can is getting a good enough seal to prevent leaks, usually the only way is to weld end caps on. The method (hydroforming) Stinkwheel is on about uses two sheets of steel welded together at the edgeswith a fitting welded on, then high pressure water is pumped in to stretch the flat sheets out to a tube. 2 stroke expansion chambers are often made this way.
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jay12329
Dr. Evil



Joined: 02 May 2003
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to busters order a micron stainless can. Pay £99 and ted is very sore indeed!
J
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Bikay
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 17:59 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a look at a few dent removal kits that involve glueing a rod into the centre of the dent. Once the glue is set the rod is pulled on. In theory the dent is removed and the glue is diossolved with an appropriate solvent.
Anyone have any experience of these kits? Confused
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Big Pete
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done similar things to car bodywork, but the puller is normall hooked thro a small hole drilled in the dent, or to a screw welded to the steel. I doubt that glue would be strong enough (especially on stainless), and I don`t think it would flex enough.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill the end plate rivets out, remove end plate, straighten it, reinstall. sorted. Any questions?



Big Pete wrote:
I have done similar things to car bodywork, but the puller is normall hooked thro a small hole drilled in the dent, or to a screw welded to the steel.

Good christ, that's the ultimate in bodgery. Use a bloody Pro-Spot Rolling Eyes
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 23:21 - 20 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Pete wrote:

do not, under any circumstances do this, if any of the welds let go it is quite possible to do serious injury to yourself. Fill the can with water if you really need to try it, but on an exhaust it is unlikely to work unless you use a pressure washer as your pump because the required pressures (1500-2000 psi) are way above what most air compressors will do.

Simple: fill it with water & then pressurize it with air, if it lets go ya just get a big splash & very little *BOOM!!* from the small amount of air...
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Big Pete
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:

Big Pete wrote:
I have done similar things to car bodywork, but the puller is normall hooked thro a small hole drilled in the dent, or to a screw welded to the steel.

Good christ, that's the ultimate in bodgery. Use a bloody Pro-Spot Rolling Eyes


whats a Pro spot? The puller I used was the same thing that all the body shops were using, I was shown how to do it while on a bodywork course. After the dent is pulled out a small blob from the mig fills the hole and shinks the sheet down a bit as well. Works a treat, even on dents with creases.
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Big Pete
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

the pullers I used were like this
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Bendy
Mrs Sensible



Joined: 10 Jun 2002
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Re: Dent removal for cans? Reply with quote

Bikay wrote:
Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the dent removed?


Remove can.

Fit Art replacement.

Marvel at the gorgeous new sound.

Utilise old can as door stop / draught excluder / paperweight.

Job's a goodun. Thumbs Up
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 15:57 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

This:
https://www.prospot.com/shopping/images/featured-pr2pic.gif
It's a combo welder/slide hammer. You touch the tip to the panel, pull the trigger & it welds itself to the panel, pull on the slide hammer to pull the dent, twist it 90deg to break the weld & all ya have left if a really small pimple instead of a bloody great hole.
Details:
https://www.prospot.com/pr2/index.shtml

I can't honestly believe any course would teach people to drill holes in the panels, thereby creating even more damage to be fixed Rolling Eyes No prob using the slide hammer you showed with the bendy bits for getting around the edge of wheel arches etc tho.
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swampy
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 16:03 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

My old man (35+ years as a mechanic/ fabricator) always pulls dents out by the method used by Big Pete, so it ain't that rare..... Smile

And wouldn't you have some problems welding the rod to a stainless steel end pipe ??
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Big Pete
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a tool junkie I have to say that that is a particularly fine gadget, I`ve not seen one of those over here at all, even in some pretty fancy bodyshops. In the pics I put up you can just see sone pointed ends, they have a threadform like a self tapper so they are easy to use, the hole is only 3-4 mm, 5 or 6 for a hook tool. Lots of places dont even weld up the hole they just skim over the top with P38 /40.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 21:46 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Pete wrote:
Lots of places dont even weld up the hole they just skim over the top with P38 /40.

Which is the kiss of death & the repair was equal to pissing in the wind. The only reason to use a dent puller is because the back of the panel is totally inaccessable... that means that when Joe Bloggs fills the holes with mud there is no way to seal the back of the repair & the next time it rains the water gets between the mud & the sheet metal.... therefore it starts corroding immediately & the entire *repair* was a complete waste of time.... NEVER drill holes.

That Pro Spot dealio is the dogs bollocks from bent gas tanks on bikes...
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



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PostPosted: 00:05 - 22 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
Big Pete wrote:
Lots of places dont even weld up the hole they just skim over the top with P38 /40.

Which is the kiss of death & the repair was equal to pissing in the wind. The only reason to use a dent puller is because the back of the panel is totally inaccessable... that means that when Joe Bloggs fills the holes with mud there is no way to seal the back of the repair & the next time it rains the water gets between the mud & the sheet metal.... therefore it starts corroding immediately & the entire *repair* was a complete waste of time.... NEVER drill holes.

That Pro Spot dealio is the dogs bollocks from bent gas tanks on bikes...


Its not so bad over here, not as much salt on the roads (altho plenty of water) and with the modern coatings from the build process the risk is a lot lower. Also, labour is so expensive that only cheap cars would be fixed this way, so by the time it eventually rots out the rest of the car is no longer roadworthy for some other reason (especially with the MOT getting stricter all the time Rolling Eyes )
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 03:27 - 22 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Pete wrote:
Its not so bad over here, not as much salt on the roads (altho plenty of water) and with the modern coatings from the build process the risk is a lot lower.

No salt on the roads here at all, & it doesn't matter how good the coating is if you just drilled a hole thru it....

swampy wrote:
My old man (35+ years as a mechanic/ fabricator) always pulls dents out by the method used by Big Pete, so it ain't that rare..... Smile

I suggest he gets retrained with some newer methods....

swampy wrote:
And wouldn't you have some problems welding the rod to a stainless steel end pipe ??

take your pick....
1, My method: small pimple of metal to sand down & then prime it.
2, Your dads method: Hole needs welding shut therefore any anti corrosion coating is now useless (weld thru primers only work on spot welds), then sand it down & prime it....
If he just bodges a wad of mud in the hole: The edges of the screw hole will be raised, so thats more metal finishing etc before he muds it.
The idea is to get the metal back to the original contour etc without having to throw ANY mud on it.
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swampy
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 09:51 - 22 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

swampy wrote:
My old man (35+ years as a mechanic/ fabricator) always pulls dents out by the method used by Big Pete, so it ain't that rare..... Smile

I suggest he gets retrained with some newer methods....


lol, I'll tell him that, cant see it going down too well though... old dog, new tricks etc
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loply
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 15:52 - 26 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you buy a slide hammer, drill a tiny hole in the dent, put the slide hammer into the hole, and gentle hammer it out.

Slide hammer is a bit like a backwards hammer, and is the thing illustrated above.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 26 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

loply wrote:
If you buy a slide hammer, drill a tiny hole in the dent, put the slide hammer into the hole, and gentle hammer it out.

Slide hammer is a bit like a backwards hammer, and is the thing illustrated above.

NOOOOOooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did you read ANY of the previous replies???? Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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loply
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 21:54 - 26 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bang it out with a slide hammer, weld it up again? Whats wrong with that?
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 04:08 - 28 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

loply wrote:
Bang it out with a slide hammer, weld it up again? Whats wrong with that?

It's a fucking bodge that is also a waste of time & energy. Do it right the first time & you'l never know there was a dent there in the first place....
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