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new bike needs some work

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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: new bike needs some work Reply with quote

i bought another 250r last weekend for a pretty cheap price, it seems to run great but does have some probs listed below,

1st Smile

https://www.galleryworkers.com/images/moto/part.jpg

this part whatever it is called has a small crack in it leaking some oil what is your guys opinions on fixing this? is there a way of blocking up the crack or is it wiser to buy a new part, how much would a new one set me back?

2nd

https://www.galleryworkers.com/images/moto/gearever.jpg


gear lever is bent should i just hammer it back to place or is it cheap enough to buy a new one and put that on?

3rd
https://www.galleryworkers.com/images/moto/footrest.jpg

foot rest got bent out of shape and if you look closer you can see that the metal is fractured. How much for new one of these?

finally
4th
https://www.galleryworkers.com/images/moto/handle.jpg

handle bar seems to be bent a little how would one get it back to better shape? or if it functions ok as should i just leave it as is.

as for the clutch lever thats only 12 bucks Smile i should know i broke it on my other bike
thanks for help guys Shocked
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kev
I Hump Things



Joined: 07 Oct 2002
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hard truth really is you will really need to buy new everything.

The caseing can be welded but the leaver will probably snap in you try to bend it back and the handle bar will never be the same and will be alot weaker so just buy new bits.
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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 09:49 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

kev wrote:
The hard truth really is you will really need to buy new everything.

The caseing can be welded but the leaver will probably snap in you try to bend it back and the handle bar will never be the same and will be alot weaker so just buy new bits.


are these bits expensive Shocked
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kev
I Hump Things



Joined: 07 Oct 2002
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best person to ask would be Goose really.

I know the bikes are very rare in the UK so second hand parts are ever rarer but if you go to your local honda dealership they should be able to give you prices.
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20:02:36 Jammy-R6: any holes a goal
20:02:48 kev: even if its a hairy mans arse
20:02:56 Jammy-R6: hell yes
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not quite so pessemistic as Kev, it depends on how tidy you want it and how far your budget will stretch. The casing could be welded (but you need a good welder with a TIG set), or you could V groove the crack with a Dremel and fill it with Aradite. The lever will staighten easily if it is steel, if it is ally you might get away with it if you heat it first (I have successfully done front brake levers by heating, straightening a bit, heating again etc). The same applys to the bar. Obviously both parts need to be removed from the bike and put in the vice. The footpeg hanger is the most awkward, it could be welded (but its a hard job, worse than the casing) or it could be repaired using a steel plate and some bolts. It depends how much of your wieght you put on the pegs really.
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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Pete wrote:
I am not quite so pessemistic as Kev, it depends on how tidy you want it and how far your budget will stretch. The casing could be welded (but you need a good welder with a TIG set), or you could V groove the crack with a Dremel and fill it with Aradite. The lever will staighten easily if it is steel, if it is ally you might get away with it if you heat it first (I have successfully done front brake levers by heating, straightening a bit, heating again etc). The same applys to the bar. Obviously both parts need to be removed from the bike and put in the vice. The footpeg hanger is the most awkward, it could be welded (but its a hard job, worse than the casing) or it could be repaired using a steel plate and some bolts. It depends how much of your wieght you put on the pegs really.


atm the main thing that has me worried is the first picture as it is dropping oil.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you open that crack out a bit, you will be able to repair it with a product called JB weld or lumiweld, nae bother (degrease thoroughly first). They are both epoxy based chemical metals and once cured can even be machined...handily they are also the same colour as your alternator casing. If it is alloy you could also get someone to TIG weld it.

That lever will bend back but take it slowly and use plenty of heat.

You might find you can get a set of flashy aftermarket rearsets for less than a replacement hanger.

If it were me, I would see if I can live with the bar like that, possibly rotate the clamp round the fork-leg a bit. Others are bound to argue with me on this point. A set of universal clip-ons aren't all that expensive if you don't like the idea.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the replies guys

gives me a very good idea of how to start correcting the probs tommorrow
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 21 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trick to bending levers back to shape it getting the temp correct. Rub a bar of soap on the part & then heat it, when the soap turns black it;s the right temp to bend (gently!!)without snapping Smile
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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 02:31 - 22 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
The trick to bending levers back to shape it getting the temp correct. Rub a bar of soap on the part & then heat it, when the soap turns black it;s the right temp to bend (gently!!)without snapping Smile


thanks awesome tip

Thumbs Up
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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 09:13 - 22 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

btw what should i use to heat the metal up without blowing the bike up Very Happy

or is there not much risk of using open flame near clutch lever? Neutral
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 22 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

grantl wrote:
btw what should i use to heat the metal up without blowing the bike up Very Happy

or is there not much risk of using open flame near clutch lever? Neutral


Eh? Eh? Eh? Errr, dude, common sense alert! You take the part OFF the bike, take the rubber off it THEN heat it up in a vice. Don't touch it with your bare hands when it is hot.

Blowlamp will do, oxy-acetylene set is better if you have access to one and are safe using it
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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grantl
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 02:18 - 23 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkywheely wrote:
grantl wrote:
btw what should i use to heat the metal up without blowing the bike up Very Happy

or is there not much risk of using open flame near clutch lever? Neutral


Eh? Eh? Eh? Errr, dude, common sense alert! You take the part OFF the bike, take the rubber off it THEN heat it up in a vice. Don't touch it with your bare hands when it is hot.

Blowlamp will do, oxy-acetylene set is better if you have access to one and are safe using it


yep silly question, i was being part lazy not wanting to take it off Embarassed

fixed it early this morning seemed to work well

thanks for help
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 04:53 - 23 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkywheely wrote:
Blowlamp will do, oxy-acetylene set is better if you have access to one and are safe using it

Aluminium melts at 660deg..... Oxy Acetylene burns at 5900deg...not a very good suggestion... Rolling Eyes

Just use a Propane blow torch.... if ya have MAP gas be careful, thats Propane & Oxygen.....
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 23 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
stinkywheely wrote:
Blowlamp will do, oxy-acetylene set is better if you have access to one and are safe using it

Aluminium melts at 660deg..... Oxy Acetylene burns at 5900deg...not a very good suggestion... Rolling Eyes

Just use a Propane blow torch.... if ya have MAP gas be careful, thats Propane & Oxygen.....


Propane /air burns at 2850 C, its not the combustion temperature that matters its the rate of heat transfer. oxy/acetylene works fine but you need to move the flame around more. Propane and air is quite capable of melting aluminium, I was using it to melt 17" wheels back to ingot stock a few weeks ago.
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leg-end
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 26 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 23 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you decide to buy new parts these guys are the best place for Honda spares.

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/
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