tyre valves questions

[colin1]

With my bike (triumph tt600), as standard, the valves are solid metal and are right angle. Ebay is my supplier for most things, and i can only find these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-SNAP-TYRE-VALVE-90-DEGREE-BRASS-RUBBER-MOTORCYCLE-/130444198531?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1e5f148283

My local motorbike tyre place has already fitted me one of these and they suggest changing valves every other tyre. I'd tend to think this is excessive but I had a tyre valve that was pretty old fail on my so I'm now thinking it's sensible.

I've recently bought a pair of wheels which have the right angle valve stems which seem to be in good condition but the internal valve bit is missing. I've bought one like this before, and just replaced the whole valve, but I'm now thinking someone might be able to supply the internal valve bit.

If not, maybe get more of the solid metal valves.

Or do you lot reckon that the type in the ebay link are fine on sportsbikes ? I cant help thinking they look more like something you'd have on a small bike.

The other question is, a cheap tyre fitter will change tyres if I supply the wheel only but i'm not sure he would fit the valve. Are they easy to put in on a wheel that doesnt have a tyre on it ?

The "snap in" description makes them sound easy to put in but...
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colin1 is officially faster than god

[G]

First off, you can easily swap/buy new internals for a valve.

The tyre fitter I used in Reading (Rideinbiketyres, top bloke ) always used to give you a whole new valve with new tyres - it helps to have the right tool, but isn't essential.

A couple of metal ones at least on google.

[yen_powell]

I put new ones in on my last two tyre changes. Mine were straight forward tubeless valves, no right angle.

With the tyre off, I cut the old valve off, lubed up a new one with tyre soap and used a cheap tyre tool screwed onto it to pull it through.

With one of these you can either screw it onto the outside of the valve or remove the valve core and use the smaller thread to screw inside the valve tube. Then you lock your fingers on the cross piece and pull the valve till it pops into place.

https://www.metals4u.co.uk/resources/files/SL380153.jpg
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[colin1]

[stonesie]

The tyre fitter can easily swap in the new core from a standard rubber valve if it is needed, or you can buy them from Ebay and some new valves that look pretty much like the Triumph originals are to be found HERE Bridgeport valves... As has been said by G the core is the only part that needs changing.

The rubber based 90° valves are crap, the centrifugal forces flex the rubber every time you go fast, if they're good rubber it's not bad, if they are El-Chepo then it will crack and leak.

[binge]

Just a few pointers for this thread, cant be arsed clicking on links or reading properly. But from what I skim read;


Valves should be changed at every tyre change, especially if they are the rubber bodied valves. They cost fuck all, so why ponse on changing one.


IF, you are the type of person who likes to run them annoying stainless steel bodied valves. Fair enough.
But DO NOT replace the core with a standard core from a rubber valve.
These have copper internals, and will react with the stainless valve, making it useless in a few months time.


I get it all the time at work, pain in the arse.
Customers buy them wanky metal dust caps. They seize onto the valves within a few months.
Besides that, they look fucking shit anyway!


Rubber valves all the way. You can bend them over to pump the tyres up. And if you change them every time you change your tyres, then they wont perrish or break when you are bending them about to pump the tyres up.





Ben

[salty21]

as far as i know push bikes, cars and motorbikes all use the same core in there valves, so finding one should be easy. If you dont have any old push bikes or car wheels knocking about just go to your nearest car or bike garage and buy a complete valve, the tool you just bought will have the specially designed forky thing on it to remove and install valve cores.

Edit* apparently not
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04 NSR 125(sold) ---- 03 CBR 600rr(sold) ----90 pan euro ST1100 '' ----02 CG 125
94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr

[binge]

Valve cores are worth fuck all.
I throw maybe 40 in the bin every day which come out of tyre valves.

I can post out some valve cores, and PLASTIC dust caps in the post to anybody who wishes to cover the postage and my time.
I've also got disposable amounts of valve core removers, not one of them little Xmas cracker tools that has been posted above.

[binge]

[stonesie]

[binge]

Im not a tyre fitter, but yeah. I did it for a good few years, but escaped that a while back! We do have tyre fitting equiptment at our workshop now though, even though we dont sell tyres as we cant match tyremark's prices who are next door. So we just have an alliance with them really, share tools, and share workload etc.

Brass, copper, whichever it is, it shouldnt be mixed with the steel valves, weather they are the ripspeed special valves, or the pressure sensor valves, costing up to £100 a piece. As the core seizes in.

Go buy a brand new metal valve, and pull the core out. It'll be silver in colour, as apposed to copper/brass in colour.
They are specefic cores for those type valves.
I sat on a pressure sensor valve course a few years ago for about 6 hours. Learnt everything there is to know about the pressure valves fitted to new cars etc.


Regarding the 6 day a week thing. Was on that at the Clutch center, but the new place only requre me to work 5 to 5.5 days a week. 9 - 5.30, £5k salary rise on my previous job etc. Absolutely love it!
And I'm replacing engines, and gearboxes daily.

[yen_powell]