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90 Yamaha FZR 600 Fork Oil Seal Problems

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fzr600
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 30 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 05:16 - 30 Sep 2004    Post subject: 90 Yamaha FZR 600 Fork Oil Seal Problems Reply with quote

Hey All,
Any help i can get would be most appreciated.

I'm attempting to replace an fork oil seal on the left-hand side (other side already replaced) and am having a few problems.

I've gotten the wheel off, the dust seal and retaining clip off, drained the fork oil, and now trying to get the fork slider off the fork tube. I have a clymer repair manual. At this stage it says to force the slider up and down and it should come off, but i've tried like crazy and it won't come off.

Does anyone know what i should do?

Again, any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks...
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 30 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you removed the damper rod bolt from the bottom of the fork leg? Its usually an allen bolt up inside the bottom of the leg that can only be seen if the leg is upside down.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 30 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Assuming you have removed the bolt from the bottom of the damper rod and taken the top off the fork and removed the spring then wipe the fork clean of oil then you hold the bottom and someone else holds the top, then yank them apart as though you were being particularly violent with a Christmas cracker.

Basically the top bush is under the seal, so it needs to push the seal out .

Did this on my FZR about a month ago. Not too bad a job.

All the best

Keith
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fzr600
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 30 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 05:06 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I"ve found the allen bolt from the bottom of the damper rod, but i can't seem to unscrew it.

It seems like it needs something to provide counter-traction or something.

Does anyone have any idea how to remove this bolt?
My bike has been sitting on a jack for two days!

Thanks very much
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 07:36 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to split the inner leg #9 from the slider tube #2. They are held together by the piston rod #11 which passes through bush # 8, and bolt # 14 up through the bottom of the slider.

Sometimes the pressure of the spring will stop the piston rod turning while you undo the bolt. If you've got access to air tools they can sometimes jar it loose without turning the piston rod. If it won't you need to remove the top nut, spacers and spring and stop the piston rod turning while you undo the bolt. There's a special tool with a hexagon head that goes down the leg and fits into the recess in the top of the piston rod to hold it. If you don't have that (who does?) use a broom handle and ram it in. It will work.

This pic is from a 600 Bandit - your forks may be slightly different.

Best of luck
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Git
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 17 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will shoot anyone that uses a manky wooden broomstick to shove into the fork leg.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Git wrote:
I will shoot anyone that uses a manky wooden broomstick to shove into the fork leg.


Take aim in my direction then.

All the best

Keith
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mr.z
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to do mine recently, a bit intimidateing haveing my forks sprawled allover the shed Shocked

I got an alan key, cut it down so i was left with a "bit" and then used a 6mm (i think) socket to go on the ratchett, it is in an akward position and i wanted to torque it properly, this did the trick nicely..

Didn't have any problem like this though? to be honest i'd try and get the propper tool can't say i'd like the idea of haveing bit of mankey wood in the forks, or at least a nice shiney new broom handle to do it with Razz

Also when your putting the seal on go to your local hardware shop, take the mesurement of your fork upper diamiter, then find a section of drainpipe that will fit over it, make it longer than the upper, because then you use it to hammer the seal into place evenly without makeing a mess of your fork legs or the seal Thumbs Up
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Git wrote:
I will shoot anyone that uses a manky wooden broomstick to shove into the fork leg.


That's another notch on your pistol then Smile

When I was doing a lot of bike work (mainly GS thous) I got a 17mm (I think, it was a long time ago) nut welded onto the end of a piece of bar and a 'T' handle across the top.

Trap Allen key in vice and settle the fork leg onto it, then insert the 'tool' and turn away
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Git
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 17 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 01 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, two notches on my pistol Laughing

Well we all have different ways of doing things and thats cool by me, just as long as it's not on my forks, I am a factory boy in another trade and firmly believe if it has not been done by the book it has not been done right, thats just the way I am and how I have been trained, it's what my customer expects when they pay you money to do the job properly.

One fleck of wood accidently missed when cleaning will more than likely aid in the damage to fork components, I view it very similar as to, how much dirt is safe to enter an engine or how much moisture is safe in the gas of a cooler or something.

Admittedly, the chances of a bit of timer killing a bush or seal or something is not that likely, but, it happens and the risk in my eyes is just not worth it.

Just my pennys worth on that one.
Fork oil smells nice.
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