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what 250/600 should i get

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carb0n
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: what 250/600 should i get Reply with quote

Ok, so, im looking at getting my tests done, not really sure what 250's are around. I will be using the bike every day to get to work. I was thinking along the lines of a ninja, but they don't come cheap... what would you suggest?
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iooi
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

What sort of milage are you going to be doing?

What other uses will the bike be used for?

How much are you prepared to spend?

How long you been riding?

Best advise I would give, based on the fact I have ridden 250's in the last few years before changing to 600's is.....

Forget the 250 and run a restricted 600.
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:
What sort of milage are you going to be doing?

What other uses will the bike be used for?

How much are you prepared to spend?

How long you been riding?

Best advise I would give, based on the fact I have ridden 250's in the last few years before changing to 600's is.....

Forget the 250 and run a restricted 600.


around 16mile round trip each day
weekend rides
around 2.5k (stretch too 3k)
2 Years

thing about getting a 600 is, after 2 years, ill possibly want a new bike anyway :S not sure. is the price of a 600 compared to a 250 much different? and how much does it cost to restrict it
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scream aim fire
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ninja 250's are nice! in your price range too
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Trouble with the 250 multis is that parts are hard to come by and a lot of them had reliability problems. What's up with getting a 400?


anything over 250 i will have to restrict for 2 years Smile and nothing wrong with a 400 Very Happy
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

carb0n wrote:
and nothing wrong with a 400 Very Happy



Spending £2.5k on a 400 is a bad idea and spending less will get you a shit heap.

They don't really make sense any more, they are all too old to make a viable daily runner.


The 500 commuter twins - CB500, ER5, GS500 (in that order) are probably your best bet. Also the CBF500, CBF600, XJ600, MT03 and ER6 could be worth looking at.

If you want something a tad sportier then consider a SV650, they are renowned for being user friendly, handling restriction well and they are VERY cheap. For the price of a half decent SV650 you'd have a ratty shit heap of a 400.


600s cost a lot to insure for a young un and 33bhp is 33bhp, it seems a little pointless paying excessive insurance to run an asthmatically restricted 600 compared to anything else.


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 11:56 - 17 Apr 2012; edited 1 time in total
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

License changes next January will make 250s pariah bikes. Get a 500+, slap on a cheap restrictor kit, job done.

Take the restrictors out when your license upgrades and bingo, you've got a "new" bike.
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shooter
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
Spending £2.5k on a 400 is a bad idea and spending less will get you a shit heap.

They don't really make sense any more, they are all too old to make a viable daily runner.


That's a load of bollocks to be fair. My SuperFour cost £900, was in show condition and never even hinted at breaking down.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
DonnyBrago wrote:


Spending £2.5k on a 400 is a bad idea and spending less will get you a shit heap.


I would have thought £2500 would buy you a nice mint 400. Must be out of touch. Confused As for reliability, I don't agree with that whatsoever.



My point was that spending £2.5k on a 400 is crazy, there are much better bikes around for that amount of money, spending it on a 400 doesn't make sense. Having an old, sporty grey import as a daily commuter is also a pretty crap idea.

Also, I didn't say they were unreliable, I said the cheap ones are usually ragged out, abused pieces of old shit that have suffered at the hands of 15 new riders for the past 2 decades.
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 12:30 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

carb0n wrote:


thing about getting a 600 is, after 2 years, ill possibly want a new bike anyway :S not sure. is the price of a 600 compared to a 250 much different? and how much does it cost to restrict it


You'd effectively get a new bike once the restrictors come out anyway Thumbs Up , to get bored and get rid of the bike before you've had chance to derestrict it would be unfair on the bike, so by the time you actually get full power, you'll be able to actually ride the bike from the time you've spent getting to know it.
modern 250's are generally quite bloody expensive, you can get a decent 600 for that.
My Hornet is a 99 model, got it in MINT condition with 11k on the clocks and it cost £1800. 2.5 to 3k as first bike money gives you a hell of a lot of bikes to choose from, if you do it realistically of course.
My first SV cost me £1100, the second £1400, and the Hornet, like mentioned £1800, all these bikes have been perfect.
Restriction generally can cost about £100 to get it done and get the certificate, or you can do what I, and mates have done, which is buy the restrictions off ebay, fit them yourself (which isn't hard, but it depends on whether you buy a carbed bike or an injected bike, carbs are cheaper to restrict I beleive, for an injected I think you need an ECU and throttle stop) and get a dyno sheet to prove the restriction.
easy enough Smile.

HTH
Mike
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much as though I love 250s, you're probably better off getting a 500 twin and restricting it. Particularly so if you were thinking of the 'Ninja' 250, as that'll probably cost more to insure than something like a CB500 anyway.

Perhaps the main problem is that 250s haven't been popular bikes for a good number of years now, so there aren't that many around. Cheap ones are often seriously old, and newer ones seem poor value for money in comparison to larger bikes. Some of the older 250s also suffer from poor parts availability, which won't be a problem with a 500 twin.
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robbieguy2003
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

In your situation, with a commute and with the odd bit of weekend blatting, i'd be looking at any of the following;

SV650 - or SV650S (same thing but with fairing)
Honda Hornet

I think you'd have more fun on the nakeds, they'll take restriction better, they're not actually slow at all and you'll get a good bike for your money. If you've got a £2.5k budget (assuming insurance is separate), personally I'd put ~£1000-£1500 tops on the bike, and I'd spend ~£500-£800 on restricting and a damn good all-around service (pads/oil/oil filter/air filter/sparks/pads/chains and sprocket/tyres etc). You 'should' then have a pretty much mint bike.

It'll then look after you for a while, if you spend the whole £2.5k on the bike and find out it needs bits, you might be running short. Having a slightly older, but properly sorted bike might make more sense.

I wouldn't touch the 400s, they're nice, but now they're really starting to become collectors items/occasional use bikes, they're getting on. I'd imagine 'most' of them will need bits of work done that might get ignored in normal servicing (bearings/cables/brake lines etc), going for such an old bike might cause you more issues. Plus once you're restriction is up, you'll be getting another ~50/60bhp out of the 600 Cool

If I was back in the position of getting my first bike, this is more than likely how I'd be approaching it.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mredhead wrote:
Restriction generally can cost about £100 to get it done and get the certificate, or you can do what I, and mates have done, which is buy the restrictions off ebay, fit them yourself (which isn't hard, but it depends on whether you buy a carbed bike or an injected bike, carbs are cheaper to restrict I beleive, for an injected I think you need an ECU and throttle stop) and get a dyno sheet to prove the restriction.
easy enough Smile.

HTH
Mike


Why waste your money on a cert or a dyno run when they are meaningless and NOT A LEGAL REQUIREMENT. Despite what F1 whould have you believe.

If plod thinks the bike is over power they will take it to be tested, no matter what your bit of paper says....
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

the SV650/S does look very nice and sounds pretty reliable Smile kinda cheap aswell around £1.4k
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
I don't think you'd need to spend anywhere near £2500 to get a good condition, reliable 400. They're not all sports bikes either.



Just clicked a few of the links you posted. Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing If you want to spend that sort of money on ancient grey imports, knock yourself out.

There are better day to day bikes for much less.
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
carb0n wrote:
the SV650/S does look very nice and sounds pretty reliable Smile kinda cheap aswell around £1.4k


Yeah but it's a Bazooki Razz


whats wrong with that Wink
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
I thought OP was race tuning his Hyosung?

knew it wouldn't be long.....
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:

Why waste your money on a cert or a dyno run when they are meaningless and NOT A LEGAL REQUIREMENT. Despite what F1 whould have you believe.

If plod thinks the bike is over power they will take it to be tested, no matter what your bit of paper says....


I agree, but I was pulled on my SV they asked if I had any proof, so it is necessary, as much as anything other than an on the spot test isn't really valid, but the actual official certificate costs quite a lot, and I don't know another way of getting it other than paying a lot to get them fitted by a company who then give it to you after restricting the bike.
The dyno cert' is just some proof on you which is cheaper than paying someone to do the restriction for you.
Besides, its only a few quid for a run at the dyno up near me.
I'm not fussed about it being legal or not, just rather play it overly safe.
Besides, I was pulled and asked for proof once...

Mike
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Kal
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love my 250s

But then I ride like a twat and they keep my licence fairly safe while I do so.

Most 250s will either be old and abused. Certainly my two were and have been complete money pits. Parts are becoming difficult (actually in the case of the Clubman its been off the road three years while I searched for parts) to source.

I would seriously, as someone who loves this size of bike, recomend you get something else.

One of the commuter 500's or 600's for favourite. Plenty of spares, low tendancy towards theft and enough wellie to enjoy yourself.

If you are bored then you aren't riding hard enough.
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Nope.
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 17 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

400s are great fun to ride, especially the GSXR 400s, but they aren't every day bikes. They're unreliable and parts are usually hard to get. They're great fun for the odd sunny day ride, and I have commuted on one so it is possible, I just don't recommend it.

I stripped my GSXR down so I could clean it up, its surprising how much dirt accumulates in 20 years!
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